Finally got the Auto Meter Air/Fuel gauge rigged up (it was given to me.)
Something doesn't seem right though. I understand that narrowband air/fuel guages aren't accurate but this doesn't seem to be doing a whole lot. Looks like the people that ran the wires reversed the purple/red. The blue wire running to the o2 sensor was spliced into the red on the gauge, and the red wire was spliced into the purple on the gauge. So I reversed those and she lit up.
This is what it looks like at idle and during normal driving, with the bottom 2 LEDs flashing staggered as you can see in the video.
View attachment 233077
At wide open throttle the lights move up to about the middle of stoich. I read that at wide open throttle it should stick around the last 2 lights of rich...The picture above is what it looks like 80% of the time just driving casually.
Here is a video of the gauge at idle, and what it typically looks like.
0116000047a.flv video by thealmightyhubbard - Photobucket
Sorry for the cell phone quality media.
The purple wire was ran through the firewall and down to the O2 sensor itself, not the PCM. I can't get under there to look but I assume the wire should be ran to a downstream O2 sensor since exhaust from all cylinders flows past there? Car has no cats if that makes any difference.
Or is it running a little lean? I had 2 O2 sensors replaced when I put the O/R X on because the downstreams were seized to my old pipe. I'm not sure if the 2 new ones ended up upstream or downstream on the new Magnaflow O/R X.
Something doesn't seem right though. I understand that narrowband air/fuel guages aren't accurate but this doesn't seem to be doing a whole lot. Looks like the people that ran the wires reversed the purple/red. The blue wire running to the o2 sensor was spliced into the red on the gauge, and the red wire was spliced into the purple on the gauge. So I reversed those and she lit up.
This is what it looks like at idle and during normal driving, with the bottom 2 LEDs flashing staggered as you can see in the video.
View attachment 233077
At wide open throttle the lights move up to about the middle of stoich. I read that at wide open throttle it should stick around the last 2 lights of rich...The picture above is what it looks like 80% of the time just driving casually.
Here is a video of the gauge at idle, and what it typically looks like.
0116000047a.flv video by thealmightyhubbard - Photobucket
Sorry for the cell phone quality media.
The purple wire was ran through the firewall and down to the O2 sensor itself, not the PCM. I can't get under there to look but I assume the wire should be ran to a downstream O2 sensor since exhaust from all cylinders flows past there? Car has no cats if that makes any difference.
Or is it running a little lean? I had 2 O2 sensors replaced when I put the O/R X on because the downstreams were seized to my old pipe. I'm not sure if the 2 new ones ended up upstream or downstream on the new Magnaflow O/R X.
When the engine is at heavy load the monitor should indicate rich. At
cruising load the monitor will appear to be bouncing back and forth
between rich and lean.
In its simplest form, the gauge is a color coded voltmeter, which lights up the LED(s) that correspond to the voltage that the gauge is sent via its signal wire. On most late model vehicles, the sensors are quite sensitive, and capable of responding very fast to a change in A/F ratio. This makes it appear that the LED's flicker in the different ranges, and this is normal. The gauge is showing the voltage it is receiving from the sensor, so more often than not it will appear that more than one of the LED's are lit, or that the readings are being shown to be in more than one section. Provided the gauge is connected properly (good power and ground) and that the connection to the O2 sensor signal wire is SOLDERED, this operation is normal. Usually, the only time the gauge will not show so many LED's is when the engine is at WOT. Instead, the gauge will pin the last few green LED's of the rich section. With time, as the O2 sensor degrades in sensitivity, the readings may be more spread out on the gauges display. Also, this gauge is not in any way designed to be used as a tuning tool, but more of an aid for the overall tuning of the engine. This gauge, when used in conjunction with either an EGT gauge or even 'reading' the condition of the plugs will help you determine the optimal A/F mix for your vehicle. Keep in mind the above only pertains to computer controlled, later model vehicles.