Is my Car Possessed or terminaly ill

DJHA90

Member
Dec 17, 2002
581
0
16
Texas
Now all I have left is a Miss...

No lights or codes. Start it up cold and it idles smooth. Try to drive it and it bogs down with no power. When it warms up and you stop at a light, the idle fluctuates between 1300 and 500 2-3 times and dies. Every time you start it when its warm -- it dies unless you give it gas to keep it going. Once its warm it seems like it has a miss to it. Checked for vacuum leaks and there are none. Compression in each cyl looks good.

Update: Now the freaking thing will only idle at 2500 rpm...
 
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you attempted to retrieve codes and there were none to retrieve because you should get a 111 code system pass. and your attempting to retrieve codes in motor bay passenger side and not under dash.

i did'nt read your signature you running a Tweecer RT, my bad disregard....
 
And if you think you feel a miss, running a cylinder balance test can help narrow down if that is the case (it will only help if you feel the miss while the test is being run, in case the miss is intermittant).

Since you have a TwEECer, I wont pretend to try and help.

Good luck.
 
Changed the electronics out of the MAF and had the same symptoms. This is really frustrating :bang:

Even swaped back and forth between a set of pipes with and without CATs to to eliminate the posibility of clogged Cats. Did cyl balancing and no problems... AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!
 
I was having the same problems with my car would start fine cold if i drove for a while and tryed starting the car back up the car wouldnt start or sometimes it would die out on me and id be sittin here stuck in traffic.
Now when i start my car right now its not wanting to start yea goota love it all lol
 
OK, it was suggested on another forum that the IAC may be bad -- so I went and replaced it and I seem to be digging myself in deeper and deeper.

Now the Car idles at 3000 rpm with the idle stop backed all the way out -- with or without the IAC connected. Any ideas???
 
I have an idea that will cost you nothing but time. :D

Since you got the Tweecer.

Seems to me you could ............

get setup for dlogging
turn the key to on but don't start the car
slowly open the throttle to WOT

See if you get any hokey values in the tps column

btw, I never have tried this method to check a tps but seems to me like it would work. :shrug:

Other things that come to mind are .............

Since you messed with the isc the idle is now elevated so you may not have gotten things like they need to be when you replaced it.

Do you have a bud with a Stang that you might try his coil?

Grady
 
you might need to look through engine bay at night when its dark looking for a short in electrical system paying special attention to wires distributor and coil the short will show in the dark (pull hood lamp) as a spark you may have to look very closely i had a bad coil and you could barely see a short (SPARP) behind coil. if you get no results keep reading.

click on link and attempt to pull codes with a light tester. and post results. good luck.

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/test1.php

if you can't retrieve any codes using the light tester you may have to test the pvc,iac,tps,maf,iat and cos2 sensors with a digital multimeter to determine where your problem is.you can purchase a mustang repair manual or check one out at library the manual will show you how to test sensors and how to determine if there bad so you will know what to reset, replace and clean you will find this info in the emissions section. when you attempt to retrieve codes do you get any codes because in any case you should recieve a 111 code which is system pass do you even get this code. also click on link below and read there is some good info. you may have already seen. check out solving idle problems 1-5. if test are all good on sensors and don't solve problem then you might want to look at distributor.

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.php
 
i had a similar symptom; it turned out to be a loose spark plug wire.

when did all this start?

did you reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a while?

did you mess with the ISC functions or scalars in the tweecer?
 
So help me understand why, with the new IAC, the car idles at 3000 rpm -- and when I put the old IAC back on -- the car dies. Even with the idle stop backed all of the way out with the new IAC, the car Idles at 3000 rpm.