Still fighting this. Idles at 2500 RPM. Runs fine on the road -- but idles at 2500. Can back throttle stop all the way out with no change. Checked the blade in the throttle body and it is completely closed. Replaced maf, throttle body, IAC, TPS... still idles at 2500. I bought a motorcycle so I have something to get to and from work. Ideas are still welcome...
Is my Car Possessed or terminaly ill
- Thread starter DJHA90
- Start date
Swarzkopf
Member
I have a *slight* miss at idle that I've never been able to figure out. Since the car runs fine when driving, I don't worry about it anymore.
Leeroy697
Founding Member
I would go through the idle setting procedure after you get the engine nice and warm (180*F+). Who knows where the settings are at now - if you were trying everything to lower the idle before, chances are that it'll be too low with a different TB now.DJHA90 said:
I posted earlier on another thread, in response to the miss. Anyhow, If the miss occurs at idle, I would do a cylinder balance test to help isolate which cylinder it is, and examine from there.DJHA90 said:Idle is fixed but I have one remaining issue - the miss is back
Is there a process for tracking down a miss? I feel close after several months
Thanks
Good luck.
Stang95fyvo
Member
urban96 said:do you have access to another 94/95 dist? it might be the pip sensor in there
or a bad injector
I had a problem with my car bogging when cold...i changed everything, o2 sensors and IAT and cleaned the maf and checked for vacuum leaks. It ended up being that my injectors were clogged and when they warmed up they wouldnt stick anymore. You may try running some cleaner through it or just repolacing them.
What an ongoing soap opera. So I do a balance test and now it is saying that Cyl 2, 3, and 6 are low contributers... At one point, months back, only Cyl 7 was low. Now it isnt low -- just 3 others.
Does anyone else feel like torching their own car and just walking away?
Does anyone else feel like torching their own car and just walking away?
Did you let the balance test run two more times (as it refined the criteria used to evaluate performance)? And those cylinders still all failed?
Time to check out those cylinders individually (check compression, quality of spark, etc. I say this though I cant even remember what the issue with your car was. ).
Good luck.
Time to check out those cylinders individually (check compression, quality of spark, etc. I say this though I cant even remember what the issue with your car was.
Good luck.
HISSIN50 said:Did you let the balance test run two more times (as it refined the criteria used to evaluate performance)? And those cylinders still all failed?
Time to check out those cylinders individually (check compression, quality of spark, etc. I say this though I cant even remember what the issue with your car was.
Good luck.
JT
Are you saying its a good thing to do that test several times cause the pcm can use those multiple tests to somehow evaluate a final sumation
Grady
I think it's a good idea to let it run in its completion if it catches a bad cylinder. It runs an initial test and if it passes, that's it. If it fails, one can let it run twice more. With each new test (it will test up to 3 times), the criteria are loosened up and evaluated differently to show someone a small issue vs a larger one.final5-0 said:JT
Are you saying its a good thing to do that test several times cause the pcm can use those multiple tests to somehow evaluate a final sumation
Grady
E.g., if someone's knee hurts when they jump off a 5' drop, one would retest jumping off a 3' drop. If it still hurts, test at a 1' drop. If the knee can handle a 3' or 1' drop, that kind of shows a relative position of how much the knee hinders one's performance.
For those that dont know, the puter cuts the injector pulse to each cylinder, one at a time. It notes the RPM drop with each cylinder being dropped. If one drops less than the others (and compared to what's stored in the computer as acceptable), that suggests an issue. An example is to disconnect a spark plug wire and run the test. That wireless cylinder wont drop the RPM at all and the puter will toss a big warning.
It should be noted that the CBT should really only be used for quick diagnostics of which cylinder might be causing issues. In NO way should one infer that the injectors are at fault. Anything that can cause a miss can trip a CBT code.
Now I wouldn't confuse that last line with what Grady said above - swapping injectors (or even injector connectors) is a cool way to see if the issue moves with the injector. If it does, you found an issue.
Sorry for the ramble.
18mustangs
New Member
I'm not sure what 65mm you're running, but if it's the FMS one try putting the 65mm back on but using the electronics (or just the IAC) from the stock one.DJHA90 said:
Tim
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