Is the 80 mm Pro-m mass air too big??

[87'GTstang]

Yep, It's one giant heater in there. Sometimes in the winter I feel the need to help some homeless people by popping up the hood and let them all huddle around the heat Sigh, still can't get the car to try and back down from the 240 range, it likes to run hot quite easily. Yeah well still hunting the gremlin.
Anyway you look at it, there's stll a lot of heat under there and those headers are one of the absolute killers of underhood temps in closed compartment in my opinion.

 

[Michael Yount]

Couldn't resist - put two thermometers on mine and took it for a ride tonight. One meter in the cold air box (mine pulls air from behind the passenger side headlights), one right beside the maf (about 9" from the back of the airbox). Ambient - 78F. After a 30 minute drive where coolant temp reached 185-190F, oil temp reached 210F, the airbox temp beside the air filter - 80F; the thermometer beside the maf - 185F.

 

[QDRHRSE]

That was actually a great idea. It also proved your point. But I'm curious as to where you get the time?

 

[86Cobra]

Couldn't resist - put two thermometers on mine and took it for a ride tonight. One meter in the cold air box (mine pulls air from behind the passenger side headlights), one right beside the maf (about 9" from the back of the airbox). Ambient - 78F. After a 30 minute drive where coolant temp reached 185-190F, oil temp reached 210F, the airbox temp beside the air filter - 80F; the thermometer beside the maf - 185F.

I was thinking about doing the same thing myself. You're a man of action!

I doubt I would have that large a swing because I'm sure I get a LOT more airflow through my engine compartment than you do.

I still have an old Moroso cold air kit in my garage so I'll try to make time this weekend to swap it on. I can datalog ACT with my Tweecer so it'll be interesting to see the difference.

 

[Michael Yount]

86 - keep in mind it's not just airflow through the compartment - it's the temperature of the air that's flowing through; and most (if not all) of the air entering is coming off the radiator - so it's at least in 130F-150F range before it gets further heated by other hotter components under the hood.

But you're set up with the data logging capability to see the ultimate impacts (if any) as air passes the ACT - so you'll have really good applicable data to check impacts with. I'm really curious what you discover - post if you don't mind. My temp. checks are really annecdotal - doing a before and after ACT read is the best way to chart changes. Cool. Literally.

 

[86Cobra]

Yeah, I'll definitely post the results when I do it. Hopefully this weekend. Probably should have done it a while ago but I never thought about it.

It's an interesting thing to think about. Would a 50 degree difference at the filter result in a 50 degree difference at the ACT?

 

[Michael Yount]

Yup - that's the question; how much of the delta at the filter makes it to the valve; or in this case, to the ACT. Even if I could data log, my data would be skewed as I relocated my ACT to the elbow just upstream of my throttle body (Explorer intake).

 

[powershift351]

The Bullet has a crappy flimsy sampling tube. The 80 has a much more solid precise sampling tube. Also, on the shorty 80 the sampling tube extends into the conical filter allowing it to get a more accurate sample versus a tube that only samples the flow at the top of the meter housing. This eliminates the need to "clock" the meter.

It's kinda hard to describe, but if you ever have the opportunity to compare them side by side you'll quickly pick up on the differences.

The 80s used to be $275+ but Pro-M is selling them for $199 with filter. That's a great deal for a great meter.

A good source for a lot of mass air meter experience is the Tweecer board:

http://tweecer.oplnk.net/


The Pro-M 80 and the 90mm Ford Lightning meter are by far the favorite meters of the Tweecer geeks. The problem with the Lightning meter is that its transfer function maxes out around 500 hp. Pro-M sells new Lightning meters for $115 but you need a filter to bolt to it (~$50) and the wiring plug/pigtail (~$25) so the 80mm Pro-M at $199 with filter and individually calibrated is a great deal.

I totally agree with you here, also pro-m has the 80mm in a plastic tube which is even more precise than the bullet due to the fact that it won't conduct heat, giving off false readings. And, I won't even mention garbage C&L meters.