Is this N/A combo good for high-mid 10's...Need Advise!

jldcobra95 · Dec 2, 2004

I am in the planning/ordering stages for a new N/A 347 buildup for my 88 Mustang. Here are the parts that I recently ordered/acquired:
- Dart Iron Eagle Sportsman Block 8.2 deck/4.030 Bore
- Scat 4340 Forged Crank
- Scat 4340 Forged H-Beam Rods
- JE/SRP Flat Top Pistons (11.5 Compression with 58cc Heads)
- Romac 28oz. Ultra Lightweight Harmonic Balancer
- PA Transmissions SFI FlexPlate 28oz.

Parts that I currently have from old engine that I plan on using on the new engine:
- Comp Cams 1.6RR - Pro Magnum
- 2 1/2" MAC Pro-Chamber/Mac Pro-Dumps
- PA PRO C4 Trans
- TCT 9" Converter 3600 Stall
- Strange Pro Race 33 Spline Axle Kit / 4:10 Gears
- Current Rear Tires: Hooiser 28X9 Slicks
Car weighs around 3150lbs with driver. Car is a pure drag car.

These are the parts that I am planning to finish my N/A 10 second car:
- AFR 205cc Heads
- Edelbrock RPM II Intake or TrickFlow R Series
- MAC 1 ¾ “ Long Tube Headers
- 75mm Throttle Body
- 42lb Injectors / 80MM MAS
- Anderson N/A PowerPipe
- Custom Cam – Solid Flat Tappet (7000rpm Shift Point ?)

Questions:
1. Do you think this combo is good for mid to high 10seconds in the ¼ mile?
2. If not what needs to be changed/considered?
3. If I get the AFR Heads with 2.080 valves, are my new pistons okay? (AFR States: 2.080 valves will require aftermarket pistons notched for valve clearance)

Also, anybody currently running 10 second N/A cars, I would like to hear about your combinations. Thanks for any input!

Jason 302 · Dec 2, 2004

I would say you might need a 351 stroker to get there (408). If your goina run 75 TB you'll have to machine the RPM 2 or just get the TFS. Injectors sure seem big without boost, I know you'll be spinning some RPMs but I think 42's are a tad too big. A solid roller cam would probably be a good power adder as well. And I guess depends on the pistons and valve lift whether you need to notch them or not, won't really know until you mock it up. If i ever built a N/A drag motor, it would be a 408 with 225 AFR heads, Extrude Honed TFS-R intake, custom solid roller cam, and all the supporting goodies much like you listed below. 3" exhaust might not be a bad idea, don't know if it would be pushing 2 1/2 or not. Looks like your on the right track. Good luck.

wyominghotwheel · Dec 2, 2004

i have to agree......i have a friend that has a very healthy 306, i mean very healthy. Without the aid of nitrous (100 shot) he can't get into the 10's......with the nitrous, he run's 10.80's but you are on the way to having one bad azz motor.........hotwheels of turborides

Grn92LX · Dec 2, 2004

If that doesnt run 10's on motor after its dialed in, drive it off a cliff I'd use a victor intake on that engine.

EMW150 · Dec 2, 2004

Definately 3" exhaust and look into a good set of step headers with a good true 3" collector instead of the Mac 13/4s. N/A combos need free flowing exhaust and as much scavenging as possible. EDIT - Get the shift points up there too. To run 10s N/A with small cubes, you gotta spin 'em. I shift @7,600 with my Pro shifted Tremec.

IMissMy93Fox · Dec 2, 2004

I would think you'll have to fly cut the pistons for valve clearance, but it sounds bad-ass... good luck

cleanLX · Dec 2, 2004

I don't have a hard time believing that'll go 10's.

BlownStangGT · Dec 2, 2004

should, open the exhaust a little with bigger stepped headers, 90mm throttle body for sure

Rick 91GT · Dec 2, 2004

I agree, good step headers, 3" Exhaust, and a Victor 5.0 intake to better match the rpms.

I would consider the Probe lightweight I-beams with the high rpm it will be worth it. I would also suggest making it a internal balance or "0" balance motor, which is better for the rpms. Eagle has a new internal balance crank out that is very nice, it will cost the same to go 0 as it would to go 28oz since the crank is made heavy so no Mallory is needed. I have seen the Eagles personally and they are very nice.

Like Mike said if it doesn't go 10's after it is tuned in (motor and suspension) drive it off a cliff. Don't expect to bust that 10 the first time out, it will take some work with the suspension. You'll need to make good power with the power robbing auto....

Listen to ERIC "EMW150" he has worked long and hard to get in the 10's NA. Build the motor for the rpm, and give it all the air and fuel it needs and you should have the power to go DEEEEEEEEP 10's.

jldcobra95 · Dec 3, 2004

Rick 91GT and EMW150: I currently have a set of Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads on the car now. Do you think I should keep those heads and get some port work done or sell them and get the CNC AFR 205's? Is there another head you would suggest over the AFR's for my combo if I sell the Victor Jrs? I am looking for the right head without porting (if I sell the jrs) for my combo that will allow me to meet my goal. Thanks!

EMW150 · Dec 3, 2004

Rick 91GT said:
I would consider the Probe lightweight I-beams with the high rpm it will be worth it. I would also suggest making it a internal balance or "0" balance motor, which is better for the rpms. Eagle has a new internal balance crank out that is very nice, it will cost the same to go 0 as it would to go 28oz since the crank is made heavy so no Mallory is needed. I have seen the Eagles personally and they are very nice.

Good advise. The lighter the better. There are alot of other tricks you can throw in there such as gas ported pistons. The chassis is a huge factor. Personally I have not spent enough on chassis to get the full potential of the power my car is making. The thing only 60's a 1.576 at best. There are tons of chassis lightening parts out there but when you get into Aerospace Brakes, high dollar shocks and struts, Chrome-Moly cage, gun-drilled axles... you get into BIG BUCKS. I pretty much run the economy stuff as far as chassis. Lakewood 90/10 struts, and the economy Strange shocks in the rear with stock springs. I've kept mine street legal also so it has full interior, stereo system, (not that I can really hear it ), and I've always run ET Streets.

EMW150 · Dec 3, 2004

jldcobra95 said:
Rick 91GT and EMW150: I currently have a set of Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads on the car now. Do you think I should keep those heads and get some port work done or sell them and get the CNC AFR 205's? Is there another head you would suggest over the AFR's for my combo if I sell the Victor Jrs? I am looking for the right head without porting (if I sell the jrs) for my combo that will allow me to meet my goal. Thanks!

I like the Vic Jrs if ported. There's alot of potential there. If I was building a new shortblock right now, I'd go Trickflow config. pistons and get a set of the Highports ported from Fox Lake. For out of the box the AFRs may get you the closest to your goal without porting. I don't have any experience with them but I know they definately flow by the numbers I've seen on them. If you want to port your Vic Jrs call either Brian Tooley at TEA or Cory Roth at Fox Lake. They are both excellent. Brian did my Canfields and they're flowing 308/264.

Rick 91GT · Dec 3, 2004

I agree........If you have the Vic Jr's they will get you to your goal with no issues, with a little work.

Is this N/A combo good for high-mid 10's...Need Advise!

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