Progress Thread Jewel Green street/strip 92 LX progress thread

Shamus O'toole said:

Thats an awesome looking car!!!LOL

Glad your having fun with it Scott.
This is what we've been working on.

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Wow that is quite a car, what year is that? Intercooler in the trunk, full cage, engine plate. Hay that dont look like no road racer? That there is quater mile monster.
Scott

Thought I would bring this thread up to date. It has been a few weeks since I posted anything and a lot has happened. I worked most of Memorial weekend probably got about 40 hours in the four days and finally was able to drive it Monday afternoon. I got the new insulation on the roof and C pillars, headliner, and new weather seal on sun roof, and new weather seal on the hatch and a bunch of other stuff.

Insulation replacing the old deteriorated foam

This is a oil spray that is out of Canada that I coated the inter pannels to keep the rust at bay.


some pictures of the panels sprayed down.




Headliner installed



New emblems



Some shots in the sun








The following week I installed the new 5.0 emblems and waxed it up. Took it to the track on May 30th and on the fifth pass managed to bend number two intake push rod broke the guide plate and broke the exhaust stud right off the head. The tattle tail read 7500rpm....opps over reved it in second. Yanked the motor and trans last weekend and found everything in good shape. Pulled the heads apart this past weekend and found that most of the valves were floating by the way that most of the keepers were shinny. I am thinking it could be partially due to the hydraulic lifters? Not sure? Also found that the rocker geometry is slightly off? I am kind of thinking of putting a shaft set up on and buying a solid roller. Defiantly going to upgrade the push rods from 5/16 to 3/8. Any thought on what caused this?
I am not sure if this has anything to do with it or not but on cold starts or if the car sits for an half an hour you really have to crank to get oil pressure. I took a video of me cranking it with the spark plugs out before I started pulling the motor and it took 10 seconds to build oil pressure. It always has good pressure when running though. The pump will get torn apart and replace with a new one.

Scott

Heads are AFR 185, they are aluminum so the head is in the process of being welded up and remachined and redrilled for the stud.

My best embarrassing time was 12.56@119mph. Spun like crazy and I was not launching hard. It was my first time to the track ever. I actually am considering trying to leave in second gear next time but also will have the slicks on so may not have to.

Scott

Shamus O'toole said:

Scott, what caused the damage was the 7500rpm hit. DO NOT TRY TO LEAVE IN SECOND GEAR. You will glaze the clutch. Your going to have to learn to shift it pretty quickly. It took me two trips to the track to learn the car. I recommend putting the slicks on as they will not spin like the DR's do. This will make it easier for you to learn it.
As far as the valve train goes.......it's your car, but it will not make anymore power with a solid cam. It will rpm better, but remember it's a stock block. try not to rev it so high.

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I am going with a solid roller the cam guy said he will take away some duration and add a little more lift. This will give it a little more power on the low end and not sacrifice power on the top end. I told him I was please as how the cam performed and my only complaint was below 55mph it would chug a little in 5th. I am going to a shaft rocker assay as well. When it goes back together the limiter will be set at 7K. There is no reason to turn over that unless I am bumping it in 4th gear at the end of the strip. I bought this car to drive and play a little.

I know the solid roller is over kill but at least if I want to get wilder down the road it is already there. I am so comfortable with a solid and shaft set ups that was an easy choice. I also know of the stability issues with the hydraulic and stud mounted set up. I want to do this only once and put the thing together to run for a few years.

Some things that I found:
The keeper and the retainer do not seat like they should both seem like 10 degree but the retainer wobbles a little.
Springs checked at installed height of 1.8" at 132lbs which the cam card calls for 155lbs. I think it was 375lbs open.
Brian I remember you said you had the heads redone. The heads are 165 AFR heads with 2.06 In and 1.6 dia ex. The valves were just dropped in and the seats were not really cut to accept the bigger valves the margin on the valve was up at the top of the 45 degree cut on the valve. This made the larger valve no help on air flow. Just to give an idea the bowl area near the seat is at 1.8” dia. I cc'd the chamber and it is a 58cc the intakes came out at 175-176cc. So I will have the seats touched up to fit the valves.
I went and clayed and found the valve to piston clearance is tight .095 on EX and .085 in intake. So the new cam if it has a real steep ramp may need to have the pistons cut a little deeper. The little we will be taking out will not affect the balance of the motor; I have been told that is better to under balance then over balance.
I also was showing the plugs to one of the guys that does cylinder head work and he said yup you’re a little lean.
The windage try tabs were all broke the tray was just laying in the pan. You can see that is bounce and banged the rod and crank a time or two.
Hopefully in couple of weeks I can button this thing back together and get it up and running to enjoy the rest of the summer.
I will try to take some pictures to show some of this stuff. Every time I go to work on this motor at dads place I forget the camera.

I know about the block, but at this point I dont think I will be pushing it to hard.
Scott

I just figured they were 165 because of when I cc'ed two intake ports they came out to 175 and 176. Figured they were 165's with a mild port job and larger intake valves. Even though the casting on the intake side said 185. I really never thought any more about it.

As far as backing off the adjustment on the rockers while it sat for the winter, no. It is a hydraulic camshaft the lifters should bleed down allowing the valves to close right? It didn’t sit to long, I had it running quite a bit over the winter as well.

With the solid I would back the tension off the rockers over the winter though. If it sits all winter.

Scott

progress...after over 2 months down


















331 4.030 SRP 407 grams, solid roller .665 lift, probe shaft rockers, balanced rotating assay, ceramic coated headers, powder coated intake. Block, crank, rods, lifters, cam, piston and pins, rockers and shafts all are cryogenics treated to 300F below 0.

Started with a bare block last Sunday, started it up last night. All built by me.

Also while the motor was out did a little rust repair on the passenger side lower shock tower. Turned out great as I borrowed a little Miller welder and welded it myself, I don’t weld to often but it welded nice.


Scott