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Progress Thread Just another 93 convertible project

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rogie Stone
  • Start date Start date Apr 9, 2020
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Rogie Stone

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Feb 21, 2016
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Apr 9, 2020
#1
  • Apr 9, 2020
  • #1
After a few questions on this site my 93 convertible 5.0 LX convertible project 175000 miles is about to begin.

So far double din radio installed car painted and all simple repairs have been made, every thing works except AC.
Parts that have been sourced so far are 5 lug rear disk axle ( from 95 auto ) and 5 lug hubs, spindals ( from 96 & up )with Cobra calipers and rotors.

Goal is to have reliable driver with 350 to 400 hp, how I get the HP is undecided.
Car will have a manual transmission.
Car will likely have Saleen body kit.

I am not a auto mechanic cars are a hobby to me but, I have built a couple cars before with extensive modifications.
I hope posting progress on this site will enable me to hear feed back from others who have been down a similar road and help prevent mistakes in design and execution that I have made before with other builds.

Step one will be tearing the car down. I usually just blow the thing apart, but this time I think I will start with one section at a time. In this case the rear suspension. I will be cleaning and painting the rear diff while I decide on a control arm, shock spring combo for the rear.

If I get bored before I can source the rear suspension parts I may go ahead and pull the engine. Which is a shame since the car runs so good, but has massive rear main seal leak.
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Apr 9, 2020
#2
  • Apr 9, 2020
  • #2
I like the double din right there. Must've been a lil' bit of work.
 

Rogie Stone

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Feb 21, 2016
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Apr 10, 2020
#3
  • Apr 10, 2020
  • #3
90sickfox said:
I like the double din right there. Must've been a lil' bit of work.
Click to expand...

Yes there was actually more to it then I thought it would be.
I will come up with something to eliminate the screw holes in the radio bezel once I pull dash to mount clutch pedal.
 
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Rogie Stone

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Feb 21, 2016
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Apr 19, 2020
#4
  • Apr 19, 2020
  • #4
All bushings replaced, new adjustable shocks, 1” lowering springs and 5 lug rear diff installed.
 
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Rogie Stone

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Feb 21, 2016
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Apr 25, 2020
#5
  • Apr 25, 2020
  • #5
Installed rear brakes got 255 fuel pump installed hopefully I will have time this weekend to finish installing tank and weld in the sub frame connectors
 
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Rogie Stone

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Feb 21, 2016
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May 3, 2020
#6
  • May 3, 2020
  • #6
Installed sub frame connectors.
It was a little more difficult than I thought it would be since I did not get the car off the ground as high as I should have being that it needed to be blocked up on the suspension for this process.
 
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Rogie Stone

Active Member
Feb 21, 2016
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May 10, 2020
#7
  • May 10, 2020
  • #7
Engine and transmission out

Next will be K member and front suspension.
Seems that the most recommended K member is out of stock and won’t be available for 4 to 6 weeks.
Summit has a QA1 k member and lower control arms for 96 up spindals ( which is what I have ) in stock and I live close enough to pick it up locally.
I haven’t heard anything bad about QA1 I will go this route unless anyone has any horror stories to share.
Also can anyone recommend or have any suggestions about coil over brand, spring / shock combo, spring rate and length ?
 
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Rogie Stone

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Feb 21, 2016
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May 17, 2020
#8
  • May 17, 2020
  • #8
Pulled K member with plans on beginning front suspension work.
Decided it was more important to go head ahead and clean up engine bay and get wires in some decent looking looms.
Got the passenger side pretty much completed.
 
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Rogie Stone

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Feb 21, 2016
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May 17, 2020
#9
  • May 17, 2020
  • #9
Any one know where this vacuum line is supposed to go ?
Red vacuum line going to vacuum harness under the hood.
 
M

Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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May 17, 2020
#10
  • May 17, 2020
  • #10
Rogie Stone said:
Any one know where this vacuum line is supposed to go ?
Red vacuum line going to vacuum harness under the hood.
Click to expand...
Goes to the back of your intake right next to the FP regulator hose.
 

Rogie Stone

Active Member
Feb 21, 2016
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May 24, 2020
#11
  • May 24, 2020
  • #11
Wires loomed, engine bay cleaned , k member and control arms installed, CC plates on, calipers and rotors in and coil overs in place.
By far the most time consuming part of all this work was spent on makeing clearance to fit one of the the coil over housing to the strut. The MM coil over housing would slide half way on when it was upside down, but right side up it would bind immediately. A few long hours with a file and it finally fit.

 
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Cheapskate207

The left one hangs a little lower
5 Year Member
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#12
  • May 24, 2020
  • #12
I’m liking this build and your plans. Great progress! Keep up the good work
 

Rogie Stone

Active Member
Feb 21, 2016
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Jun 6, 2020
#13
  • Jun 6, 2020
  • #13
Dash and console removed, Dash painted still prepping console and other panels for paint.
Evaporator core, heater core and fan motor replaced.
I also extended the vacuum lines a little longer because I noticed when I moved the HVAC controls below the radio for double din install the vacuum lines were a little tight.
Once I get a hold of clutch pedal and brake booster I can reinstall the dash.
 
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Rogie Stone

Active Member
Feb 21, 2016
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Jun 28, 2020
#14
  • Jun 28, 2020
  • #14
Pedels from manual , SN 95 booster and dash installed.

Running into some interface with steering column mount with the brake light switch due to the shape of the SN 95 booster push rod. I plan on modifying the wiring connector unless there is a cleaner solution that anyone knows of ( may be brake light switch connector from a different year or model ? ).

 
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Rogie Stone

Active Member
Feb 21, 2016
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Jul 4, 2020
#15
  • Jul 4, 2020
  • #15
New steering rack, intermediate steering shaft and bump steer kit installed
 
Reactions: Olivethefet and General karthief

Rogie Stone

Active Member
Feb 21, 2016
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Jul 4, 2020
#16
  • Jul 4, 2020
  • #16
I had to pull the steering shaft away from the steering column a few inches to meet the new intermediate shaft. Dose anyone know how far this shaft will pull out before being in danger of coming uncoupled from the steering column ? ( picture with red arrow )

Also I have never used a u joint style intermediate shaft before. Is it a common practice to run a bead of weld or install tension pins to keep the intermediate shaft from collapsing instead of only depending on the set screws ? ( picture with blue arrow)
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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Jul 5, 2020
#17
  • Jul 5, 2020
  • #17
I used the MM steering shaft, and it’s welded in those areas vs the set screws. That alone was one of the reasons I preferred to use it
 
M

Monkeybutt2000

Mustang Master
Aug 11, 2019
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Jul 5, 2020
#18
  • Jul 5, 2020
  • #18
Do the bolt's go through the shaft? Even if they do, it would only take a few minutes to lay some beads on there, piece of mind.
 

Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
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Mar 7, 2019
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#19
  • Jul 5, 2020
  • #19
I like the way you aligned that front. My method is close, but yours seems perfect.
 
E

ebone84

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 8, 2004
125
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Jul 6, 2020
#20
  • Jul 6, 2020
  • #20
I’m looking to buy a rack and pinion and steering shaft ... is it 15 to 1 ... and if you don’t mind did you buy it online if so from what company..... Thanks
 
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