Just bought the steeda CC plates... right move?

[Caldwell]

I just picked up Steeda Caster Camber plates for the stang. I was a firm believer that they weren't needed on a lowered car with 17s... i was WUH-RONG!

CC plates are a must, most stangers know that, but for the average owner that doesn't and wants to lower the car? buy them, unless you feel like replacing front rubber every spring, literally.

On to my thread question...
How are the steeda cc plates anyway? will they do the job?
I kinda just went ahead and bought these without really researching or anything... gr... and i never do that.

Feedback? I haven't installed them yet.

 

[SeventyMach1]

Are they 3 bolt plates? I know nothing about them either, lol .... that's why I'm asking. I'm doing some shopping myself. I think I'll be going with the MM's .... Hotchkis one's are WAY over priced.

In other words ..... SUBSCRIBING.

 

[bimmertech]

you will be fine. just when you get it aligned make sure you spec max caster within 0.5deg of each other.

4 bolts are fine and dandy, but from what i gather from your posts 3 bolt will suit your needs no problem.

 

[Caldwell]

Hehe, Justin: yeah man they're the 3 bolt, they were cheaper than the 4 bolts... like, significantly.

Ben: thanks bro, i was worried about the 3 bolt to be honest, just because i did go cheaper... but so long as my fronts stop burning off, the dude at the tire shop's thinking i'm weird coming back in to buy new FRONT tires instead of rears...

I have it backwards methinks.

 

[bimmertech]

Ben: thanks bro, i was worried about the 3 bolt to be honest, just because i did go cheaper

i have QA1 4 bolts and you have to drill a hole in the strut tower to get the 4th bolt in. well, i have never done that and won't until i get coil-overs. ran it this way for 2 years with about 2 alignments per year and besides the initial setting i have only had to change caster or camber 1 time a very small amount.

now is a good time to change out the tie rods--since you gotta aligne it anyways. i'd do both inner and outer at the same time considering your mileage.

 

[Caldwell]

i have QA1 4 bolts and you have to drill a hole in the strut tower to get the 4th bolt in. well, i have never done that and won't until i get coil-overs. ran it this way for 2 years with about 2 alignments per year and besides the initial setting i have only had to change caster or camber 1 time a very small amount.

now is a good time to change out the tie rods--since you gotta aligne it anyways. i'd do both inner and outer at the same time considering your mileage.

the tie rods are good, i just got them checked like 5 months ago.
my car just scraped past 70k miles, so it's not... HALF bad...

you really think coil-overs are the way to go?

 

[HISSIN50]

Ben (or anyone else), I have read of folks just tossing the CC plates in and not getting an alignment.

On a car with a typical drop and wheel/tire combo (Eibachs maybe, and 17's), do you know how much dialing the negative-camber out affects the toe setting?. I am tryin to figure out if toe changes substantially with a camber change on a slightly lowered car, in other words.

I know it depends on each car, etc, but I thought you might have general thoughts (which I am sure will be to get an alignment afterwards. ).

 

[94GTMOOSE]

thats what all my buddies are using and they love them. Did you consider kenny brown?

 

[HISSIN50]

Does KB have CC plates (I know he sold C plates)?

From what I understand, they are out of business due to personal reasons.

 

[Caldwell]

Hissin: maybe i'll get an alignment afterall

I dunno, see when I was driving the car without the plates, you coul visually see the difference...
i still need to get two new sets of front tires thrown on, so i'm sure it won't be hard to get the alignment too, but yeah, i think it's going to be a requirement.

 

[94GTMOOSE]

HISSIN50 i do beleive your right about them only being only camber plates. They put the caster all the way to the back. There is a shop here in jersey called the front end shop, and one of the guys told me that putting the caster all the way back makes the car steer and handle better. he used an anlogy with front shopping cart wheels. i would really like to explain it but i am afraid to sound stupid. Plus he said that one adjustment that you don't have to worry about going out of wack any more becasue it doesn't move. I am in the market for a set when i lower my car in the summer, so i am trying to figure out what brand to go with.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Here is my extremely aggressive alignment from Steeda.

Their road race car has -2.5 degrees camber. Normally they would set up a street car with -1.5 degrees. For some reason they couldn't get mine there. It does handle very well though.

Front suspension is-QA1 Tubular K member, Tockico 5 way adjustable struts, Steeda bump steer kit, Pro3i caster/camber plates, C springs.

 

[HISSIN50]

Moose, the thing is that from my recollection, I dont think that the C plates have a plain to allow more caster than stock to be dialed in (I could be very wrong - it is something one should check out before purchasing).
The way I think of caster is like the trail and rake on a motorcycle front end. Or simpler yet is the angle of forks on a bicycle. On cars with upper and lower ball joints, when one looks at the angle of the ball joints from vertical, that is a way to envision caster.

Joe, thanks for putting up your sheet - that is interesting to see.

 

[bimmertech]

Ben (or anyone else), I have read of folks just tossing the CC plates in and not getting an alignment.

On a car with a typical drop and wheel/tire combo (Eibachs maybe, and 17's), do you know how much dialing the negative-camber out affects the toe setting?. I am tryin to figure out if toe changes substantially with a camber change on a slightly lowered car, in other words.

I know it depends on each car, etc, but I thought you might have general thoughts (which I am sure will be to get an alignment afterwards. ).

changing camber does change toe. enough to require alignment? probably, you are playing with fire by not setting the toe after camber changes. as far as the hard numbers, i could not tell you but i am doing an alignment next week and can tell you then.

i run a little less camber than Vib, but i will dial in more here soon as i have way too little tire wear i usually try to keep my cross caster a little more close as we have pretty washed out roads.

 

[Caldwell]

Joe, you're the man. I appreciate it!

 

[94GTMOOSE]

HISSIN my bro has a set of kenny browns, and in the pkging that they come with it says that hey push the caster all the way back. just a quick note

 

[HISSIN50]

HISSIN my bro has a set of kenny browns, and in the pkging that they come with it says that hey push the caster all the way back. just a quick note

Ah so, thanks man (your brother is 2000, right?). He posts some good stuff on the fox side.

 

[94GTMOOSE]

yeah thats him...he does know his stuff, and hes a arrogant bastard too. Always making me feel stupid on a daily basis

 

[DougNuts]

You guys are right. Caster Camber plates do allow you to adjust caster. With a stock geometry mustang I believe you want as much caster as possible.

Caster is the angle that the strut makes in relation to 90* from the ground.

 

[Caldwell]

DougNuts: Goood... because my fronts are too far in at the top, it isn't that noticeable however the entire inside wall is toast on the tires and they need to get replaced...

i don't know if the tires are salvageable or not

as soon as you see the mesh it's over right?