Just rebuilt 5.0 - why so slow - LOST power
- Thread starter bsedwebt70-5.0
- Start date
car is a dog
Per Ford racing, the e303 cam is a 1.6 ratio rocker cam shaft. That would be where I would start and get that part back in spec. Ford racing says to install that cam 4deg advanced. You need to get a few miles on the engine. It needs time for all the bearings etc to get run in. It will take several hundred miles for the rings to seat. Just be patient, don't drive the car at a constant speed for long periods of time. vary the speeds and rpm, but don't max out the rpms until everything has time to break in.
Per Ford racing, the e303 cam is a 1.6 ratio rocker cam shaft. That would be where I would start and get that part back in spec. Ford racing says to install that cam 4deg advanced. You need to get a few miles on the engine. It needs time for all the bearings etc to get run in. It will take several hundred miles for the rings to seat. Just be patient, don't drive the car at a constant speed for long periods of time. vary the speeds and rpm, but don't max out the rpms until everything has time to break in.
fuel pump is stock - pressure looks good at idle but it is a bit noisy - could possibly be a concern but funds are running low since I just dropped $8K on this car including purchase, etc.... Car still not been driven much - other things on my plate - I will try to break it in more - I hate to think about taking things apart again to degree the cam 4* advanced or change the rockers - I will have to wait on that stuff. As for the question what is BG 44K - It is a fuel system cleaner on steriods - I don't waste any money on anything else - this stuff kicks - Try it one time and you are sold for life - it is expensive at nearly $20 a can but worth it - I got my supply at $10 a can in bulk and am using it every so often in all my cars.
Update - car is starting to feel better every day now - breaking it in I guess - has about 35 miles on it now and letting the BG44K work a bit. I cleaned the air filter (cold air kit w/ cloth/wire filter) someone had soaked it in something like automatic trans fluid (not a light coat of K&N oil like you are supposed to do) and it was not breathing good - used a good degreaser and lots of hot water til it came out clean and dried it - I guess this is why the MAF wires were dirty. Set TPS to .98 volts and re-set computer. I will have to get used to this E303 cam I guess - seems to be a bit slower right off dead idle than the stock cam but if i drop the clutch at 1400rpm it will burn both the tires as long as you want. Also if I am going 15-20 mph in 1st gear under light throttle and then go to half throttle both the tires will spin as much as wanted and burn a bit when second is hit. I also notice when going 40 mph in 4th gear if it is dropped into 3rd gear with a little rev it will spin both again... I will get used to it I guess - still feels like it is breaking in and the cleaner is working its magic and the power is steadily getting better - just not what I had expected right off idle - it seems to come on strong 1500rpm and above to about 4500rpm where I let off it as it is still being broke in - feels like it will continue to pull strong for quite a bit more - sounds MEAN at idle and under load - however, I guess I should have should have stuck with a stock cam since I want strong pull right off idle til 70mph - live and learn.
whats up? Just joined the site and read your post first. I had the same problem about 5 years ago, when the systemax first came out. You can unplug your Maf to eliminate that as the prob. if the car runs better it is most likely the maf. It will run @ factory preset calibrations in the computer. It may run a bit to the rich side, but at least you can see if it gets better. Also check fuel pressure while going down the road if you can. This really sounds like a fuel issue, being not enough. Also, before I got a chip burned from JMS for my A9L processor I was running about 19 degrees of base timing. car goes 12.60s on motor. T-5 yet. I first thought the balancer's outer ring rotated but I bought a new 1 and it was right on. The cam was also installed straight up. I hope this helps.
Yeah, The car is gonna feel slower off the line now, I had to go from 3.55 to 4.10s to get into the 3000 rpm range quicker. Sounds like the maf was your prob. don't be afraid to play with the timing though. Get some good 93-94 octane and bring it up to where it pings and then back it off 2-3 degrees. try it again. I don't believe in babying the sh-t out of them when new. Break'em in, how your gonna use'em. I did my motor 5 years ago and put 250 hard miles on it then change the oil, then went to the track all in 1 week. And the car was slower at first. With exhaust and 3.55 I went 14.20s. with the new motor, before tuning it for a few weekends at the track, I was going 15s. you can emagine how pissed i was. OH well getting ready for another motor, want some more compression. probably bennet short block with my current setup. want to hit low 11s on motor. Be patient it takes alot of time to tune without a dyno. lots of time at the track.:SNSign:
