While doing my engine rebuild, I bought a used K-Member off of my father-n-law for next to nothing. Its a D&D Motorsports I believe (the company that made it is out of business I think). I put it in, and after bolting all my suspension up, discovered that the track width is 1 inch shorter (1/2" on each side). I adjusted the toe by eye, and then drove the car long enough to break the engine in (about 300 miles). The tires on the front were bad anyway, so it didn't really bother me if they wore.
Last night I began to do a DIY alignment job using a level and an angle finder. I maxed out my Steede CC Plates, but still can't get the right caster (I am about 8-9* positive) and I am on the nose of having the right camber (about 2* negative). These were using specs I found on here from an old post.
I think my problem lies with the narrowed track width. I used the same control arms I had originally (FRPP/ basically stock with better bushings). I think that pulling the arms in screwed with the alignment angles. I am still using my "C" springs, so I haven't converted to coil overs yet. I did notice that the car sits about an inch higher in the front now too. I think this is because the spring pockets on the control arms are off a little now, and it doesn't allow the spring to fully seat.
I don't know...these are just some ideas that are wondering through my head.
Would having longer control arms help out here? What if I did the coil over conversion? Would that help since I could lower the car and change the geometrey again?
Please add comments or ideas. I really don't want to pull this K-Member back out. Also, I read somewhere that 79-late 80's k-members were 1" narrower from Ford. Is this correct? All the K-member kits I see are for 79-93 year models...so they look universal.
Last night I began to do a DIY alignment job using a level and an angle finder. I maxed out my Steede CC Plates, but still can't get the right caster (I am about 8-9* positive) and I am on the nose of having the right camber (about 2* negative). These were using specs I found on here from an old post.
I think my problem lies with the narrowed track width. I used the same control arms I had originally (FRPP/ basically stock with better bushings). I think that pulling the arms in screwed with the alignment angles. I am still using my "C" springs, so I haven't converted to coil overs yet. I did notice that the car sits about an inch higher in the front now too. I think this is because the spring pockets on the control arms are off a little now, and it doesn't allow the spring to fully seat.
I don't know...these are just some ideas that are wondering through my head.
Would having longer control arms help out here? What if I did the coil over conversion? Would that help since I could lower the car and change the geometrey again?
Please add comments or ideas. I really don't want to pull this K-Member back out. Also, I read somewhere that 79-late 80's k-members were 1" narrower from Ford. Is this correct? All the K-member kits I see are for 79-93 year models...so they look universal.