KB Dyno #s

[BrightBlue00GT]

368 rwhp @5300 rpm sounds about right, although I don’t know how it got to 135mph. Get a Speed Cal on that thing. I definately think the low HP is due to the rev limiter problem you're seeing, not the motor itself.

Kenne Bell chip does not modify the rev limiter. It also does not modify the Speed Limiter UNLESS you ask for it AND you sign a waiver form when you order.

That said, I doubt very seriously that a differcne the CAI tube used would account for that big a difference in numbers. Get it to 6100 rpm and I bet the rwhp cranks right up.

I’ve always heard that if you hear the exhaust pop and crackle you are probably running a rich. Mine is running a bit rich, as KB uses a conservative tune (for safety I assume) and it pops during downshifting and deceleration some.

2000 GT’s with 16” stock rims had a 120mph speed limiter. Most new Mustangs are already set at 180mph.

Our 2V kit BAP’s don’t come with that regulator knob due to the new BAP method KB uses. As for fuel press, at idle you should usually read around 30psi. As you get on it, even a little, the press rises. Sometimes I have seen mine get up to 55+ in the hot weather. I’ve never seen it get below 30psi.

Dan - no fear my man. There are many of us that have had zero problems. Whether it's because we didn't mix & match components I don't know, but I am using all the KB stuff such as the 90mm MAF, Big Tube, etc. I have not experianced any of the issues Red has had, nor what el_ is having, so I would say it's a matter of luck in some ways.

 

[el_kid_1]

Hey Pat,

Thanks for your input. I'm going to upgrade all my component to those offered by KB (90mm MAF, Big Tube, etc). Do you have the switch-chip? Have you taken your car to the dyno yet?

 

[BrightBlue00GT]

Hey Pat,

Thanks for your input. I'm going to upgrade all my component to those offered by KB (90mm MAF, Big Tube, etc). Do you have the switch-chip? Have you taken your car to the dyno yet?

Don't get me wrong, I don't know if mix matching has anything to do with it. I just know I didn't have any problems and I did use the KB provided parts... it could just be luck one way or the other. Hard to say.

I have the switch-chip, although I have it taped down (for safety sake) in the normal postion. You use it in the other mode means you must use 100+ octane.

Yes, I had a dyno pull done at a place in Seoul called Krazy Kar about 2 weeks ago. It's a Korean shop that does ricers, but also can do American cars, and others as well. He had an RX 7 in there that day. I've hesitated to post until he gets the new English software loaded on it and I redo it, as it is all in Hangul (Korean) now... except the numbers, and it does not print graphs, only a timesheet style slip that takes the numbers off the on-screen graph. And, with all this being quite out of the normal 'standard' of what folks expect, I haven't made it well known yet. I also am not absolutely sure of the accuracy of the results even though I can read, write and speak Hangul, that has no bearing on the mis-translations that occur during our daily lives here. While the numbers sure look good to me, it is always possible something may be mis-translated within the programs somewhere... I doubt it, but cannot prove it one way or another, so I have been waiting. That all said, my numbers are great! Better than most I've seen posted, although I do hope that's due to having a very good setup of mods.

 

[el_kid_1]

Well, I talked to James yesterday afternoon and after discussing all the troubleshooting and testing that I've done during the last few days, he has concluded that my problem is related to a speed limiter on 4th gear. All testing has proved every single part to be working properly (BAP, pressure/switch, rev limiter, KB’s chip, etc.). He suggested that I should have my computer reflashed to get the speed limiter out of the way. Does anyone know where can I have my computer reflashed? A Ford dealer, may be?

Anyways, I ordered (for good or for bad) the KB Big Tube, 90mm MAF, CAI and switch chip. I also ordered a SpeedCal from Dallas Mustang.

I also got an e-mail from Ken saying that my rwhp @ 5300 rpms is very close to their numbers at the same rpm. He said that my hp will climb as I go up to 6100 and I should see 400+ rwhp.

Regarding the car “lean” condition @ 5300 that I’m apparently experiencing, we have concluded that the instrument that my local dyno is using to measure A/F is not working at its optimum. I asked the dyno owner and the A/F meter has never been calibrated nor certified since the day it began operating. The same day I went to the dyno, an 03 Cobra rolled in with a KB S/C (17 psi pulley) and put 593 rwhp with the A/F at 10.5:1. Does that A/F ratio seem about right for that horsepower level?

 

[GinoGT]

Does anyone have, or know where I can find a pricelist for the KB 2V blower? Also, are there any differences in the 6psi, 9psi, etc kits besides the pulley size (and the type of tune you get, I assume)?

Is it possible to buy just the blower unit and mounting hardware by themselves?

 

[el_kid_1]

The 9 psi kit comes with an intercooler while the 6psi does not. Here is the link to the KB Price List

 

[TJM01]

Does anyone have, or know where I can find a pricelist for the KB 2V blower? Also, are there any differences in the 6psi, 9psi, etc kits besides the pulley size (and the type of tune you get, I assume)?

Is it possible to buy just the blower unit and mounting hardware by themselves?

When I called I was told that I couldn't by parts for the kit.

 

[Red Dragon]

I have been away from the computer for some time because of the holidays. I hope nobody feels slighted. Matter-of-fact, I haven't even checked my PMs yet. El_kid, I didn't ignore you; I will check my PM.

I have to agree with others, I think it is a speed limiter. A Ford dealer can flash your computer, but you have to find a good one that is willing to work on modified Mustangs. They have to remove the KB chip to reflash it. I finally found a SVT Ford dealer that was willing to work with me and they re-flashed my computer to see if it would fix my problem. I feel VERY fortunate, as two other dealers really sucked. Good luck finding a good one.

As for the comment about the lean condition because of a bend in the BBK CAI, KB's CAI has a bend in it as well and when I first installed it, I got a rich condition on bank 1. KB fixed this quickly with a chip re-burn; but at the time they said it wasn't from the CAI, but it was from not sending me my chip with the correct pulse for the injectors. I don't know what it "really" was, but the chip re-burn took the SES light out.

As for my other mods, they are all KB mods, except for the fact that I got the BBK throttle body instead of the other one (I forget the name already). KB said that the BBK TB was a good one to go with as well. My problem started before any other mods, however. I fired up my KB blower with all stock parts and my problem was there back then. The added parts were purchased because I thought that the "system" might run better if it was upgraded to all bigger KB parts. This did not happen. It seems to be worse with the added parts. Keep in mind, however, that it got colder at the same time and my problem seems to be outside temperature related. Therefore, the additional mods probably did nothing better or worse for my drivability problem.

I know KB has questioned whether mine is really running lean, but in my mind, it has to be too lean or to much timing. What else could make it detonate so easily? Hmmmm... I plan to talk to the KB people next week. We'll see how I make out. They seem like they are more than willing to help me figure this problem out.

El_kid, I think I would get the speed limiter fixed AND find a new place to dyno after the reflash. If you really are running lean AND you keep hitting your rev limiter, you are going to grenade sooner rather than later.

Somebody asked if I tested where my rev limiter setting is. I will not even think of trying this since my car detonates so easily. I know it will blow if I do it. I really need to get mine fixed before I can even think of pushing it in ANY environment. It is beginning to really get depressing and embarrasing not being able to use the car to anywhere close to its potential. But to be fair, I haven't called KB in a couple of weeks, they haven't called back from my original call, and they can't help me if either I or they don't call. So I will keep everyone posted as soon as I find something.

Just a quick question; has anybody ever had a problem with a bad temperature sending unit? Not for the guage, but for the computer (maybe it is one and the same). I think there is one in the MAF (that KB bypasses to connect their own in the intake) and I think there is a stock one in the intake. I am wondering if the computer is getting the correct temperature reading? Has anybody experienced a problem like this? I am really reaching to find the solution to my problem, as you can tell. Also, is there a way to test Kenne Bell's sending unit? The sending unit included in the KB kit has the wires epoxied into the top of the unit( no connector). Do you other KB guys have yours done the same way? Is it possible that there is a leak in my bypass system? Is there a way to tell? I can get the boost level to 10 PSI, so does that mean it is OK?

El_kid, sorry to hyjack your thread, but the subject is the same and might even help you out if in fact you are running lean.

Wish us luck!

 

[el_kid_1]

Hey Red, hope you find a solution to your problem soon. That must really suck big times...knowing that you have lots of power under the hood, but not being able to unleash it. I will try having my computer reflased today. We'll see how that goes.

I ordered all the KB parts two days ago, except for the TB. I also got the BBK 70mm TB and it works just fine.

As for me taking my car to a different dyno to check the A/F, I guess that won't happen becuase there are only three dynos in PR and only one of them has the A/F meter. So, I guess I will have to trust KB on that one.

Regarding the the IAT sensor, mine is a 2000 GT and it was relocated from the TBI tube to the KB intake. On 2001 and up GTs, the IAT sensor is built into the MAF. I'm not sure if this helps.

Happy New Year!

 

[Saleen s281]

It did not. I called KB about this issue and they explained that they've eliminated the voltage adjustment knob on the 2v kit. The BAP has been set up in such a way to increase the fuel pump voltage by 50% all the time (or as long the pressure switch senses 3.5 psi of boost or more). This is becuase the fuel pump in GTs is not as good as that of Cobras. They need to delete the knob from the BAP installation instructions as it is confusing. I went nuts looking around for the knob...I thought they didn't ship it.

yea same here called them up and they told me the same thing

 

[DeadLurker]

As for me taking my car to a different dyno to check the A/F, I guess that won't happen becuase there are only three dynos in PR and only one of them has the A/F meter. So, I guess I will have to trust KB on that one.

hmmm not sure if I would be comfortable with that considering what your a/f looked like.

 

[el_kid_1]

I'm going to continue posting all the tech-support related info as it comes in from KB, just for the benefit of the stang community and KB S/C current and future owners.

Just got an e-mail from Ken saying that my car is hitting the speed limiter at 5300 in 4th gear because, allegedly, Roush removed or raised my speed (shaft) limiter in the ECC. The limiter is now back to stock because the KB mono chip overrides the ECC. He is going to raise the speed limiter and send a new chip (at no charge!!). Just that you all know, I had to sign a waiver for KB to raise the speed limiter on my new chip.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the speed limiter that Fords set on our GTs?

 

[DC-GT]

I just ran mine to 140 in 4th on the dyno...

Bo