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Kill Switch Or Dizzy Switch, Or Alarm ?

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SF Lex

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Wondering what you guys have to protect your vehicles ? I am thinking of installing a dizzy switch, but also thought about installing an alarm. Does anyone know if on a 92 Mustang GT, you can install an alarm with a remote to start the car ? Wondering if thats possible ?
I gotta have something to protect it. What do you use ?
 
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Davedacarpainter

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SF Lex said:
Wondering what you guys have to protect your vehicles ? I am thinking of installing a dizzy switch, but also thought about installing an alarm. Does anyone know if on a 92 Mustang GT, you can install an alarm with a remote to start the car ? Wondering if thats possible ?
I gotta have something to protect it. What do you use ?
Click to expand...
Good question! I'm still four or so months away from my car being a driver, but I will want to protect it.
@jrichker ? @madmike1157 ?
What is a good modern setup?
 
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7upstang91

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Two different kill switches.


Not having a motor in the car helps sometimes.
 
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jrichker

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If you live in an area where theft or damage to you car is likely, either move away or buy some really good insurance. Be sure that it covers the car, its contents and any modifications or additions you have made to the car.

Remote start is only practical with auto transmission cars.

With 5 speed transmission cars, the clutch safety switch prevents the starter from being operated unless the clutch is depressed to the floor. This prevents attempts to start the engine when it could run over something in it's path. Putting the manual transmission in neutral does not enable the starter circuit to crank the engine.

Follow this tech note for the best way to wire a fuel pump kill or anti-theft switch...

On 86- 91 cars the fuel pump relay is under the driver’s seat, 92 and later cars, the fuel pump relay is under the Mass air duct on the passenger fender well.

Note that the wire colors changed in 1991, so there are two different descriptions.

86-90 model cars:
Cut the red/black wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the red/black wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced red/black wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.

See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model wiring diagrams.



91-93 model cars:
Cut the red wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the red wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced red wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.

See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model wiring diagrams.

 

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  • 91-93 Fuel pump kill switch.gif
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Last edited: Mar 19, 2016
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FoxMustangLvr

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Davedacarpainter said:
Good question! I'm still 8 or so months away from my car being a driver, but I will want to protect it.
Click to expand...
Fixed

SF Lex said:
Wondering what you guys have to protect your vehicles ? I am thinking of installing a dizzy switch, but also thought about installing an alarm. Does anyone know if on a 92 Mustang GT, you can install an alarm with a remote to start the car ? Wondering if thats possible ?
I gotta have something to protect it. What do you use ?
Click to expand...
What jrichker posted is the best way and what I'm going to do this summer. Alarms are useless and a nuisance IMO. Also, if you have a good condition Mustang or lots of mods to it then you should seek out collector car insurance that has a higher agreed value for the car. @Davedacarpainter should check this out too. You typical car insurance will only give you market value even though you have $10k into with new restoration and rebuilt motor you will only get $4k or less in the event your car is stolen or wrecked. Check out Haggerty or Grundy. I got a quote from grundy on my car, $8,500 agreed value for a little under $300 per year and it's full coverage (300/100) with towing, uninsured motorist etc just like you'd get from Farmers or anyone else.
 
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stykthyn

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Any mileage restrictions?
 

Virtual

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stykthyn said:
Any mileage restrictions?
Click to expand...

Yes, but more important than the mileage is the fact that it must be a 2nd car, not used as a daily driver to commute to/from work, and must be garage kept.
 
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FoxMustangLvr

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stykthyn said:
Any mileage restrictions?
Click to expand...
I don't recall to tell you the truth. There either wasn't any or it was high enough (like 10k miles) that I would never reach it. My Mustang might see 1,500 miles at the most in a year.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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Virtual said:
Yes, but more important than the mileage is the fact that it must be a 2nd car, not used as a daily driver to commute to/from work, and must be garage kept.
Click to expand...
Man, that might be a dealer breaker for me. In nice weather I LOVE driving my car to work.
 

Virtual

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stykthyn said:
Man, that might be a dealer breaker for me. In nice weather I LOVE driving my car to work.
Click to expand...

Since I have a 'vert there are obviously days that are just calling for me to drop the top and go for a cruise, even if it is to work.

I think it's subject to interpretation, but I read the restriction as not allowing your to use your "classic" as your main driver and primary vehicle for commuting. I don't think it means you can NEVER use it to commute, just that since it's insured as a pleasure vehicle you need to be able to prove to them that you are not using it as your primary vehicle.

So that's my position.. and I'm sticking with it.. though (fortunately) I have never had to argue with the insurance company about my interpretation, so YMMV.
 

SF Lex

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  • #11
jrichker said:
If you live in an area where theft or damage to you car is likely, either move away or buy some really good insurance. Be sure that it covers the car, its contents and any modifications or additions you have made to the car.

Remote start is only practical with auto transmission cars.

With 5 speed transmission cars, the clutch safety switch prevents the starter from being operated unless the clutch is depressed to the floor. This prevents attempts to start the engine when it could run over something in it's path. Putting the manual transmission in neutral does not enable the starter circuit to crank the engine.

Follow this tech note for the best way to wire a fuel pump kill or anti-theft switch...

On 86- 91 cars the fuel pump relay is under the driver’s seat, 92 and later cars, the fuel pump relay is under the Mass air duct on the passenger fender well.

Note that the wire colors changed in 1991, so there are two different descriptions.

86-90 model cars:
Cut the red/black wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the red/black wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced red/black wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.

See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model wiring diagrams.



91-93 model cars:
Cut the red wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the red wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced red wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.

See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model wiring diagrams.

Click to expand...
Now this is a plan. Does the switch have to be a certain type ? Or any kill switch. I know i have one lying around somewhere. It looks like this, it says 240V. Hope this works. By the way you guys, i got Hagerty insurance. Luv it, $287 a year for full coverage. Miles not restricted, but i don't drive it daily. Its a weekend car.
 
Last edited: Mar 19, 2016
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Davedacarpainter

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FoxMustangLvr said:
Fixed
No, no, no. If my fantasy world says four months, it usually means five. Now, had I said six months, you would be correct.


What jrichker posted is the best way and what I'm going to do this summer. Alarms are useless and a nuisance IMO. Also, if you have a good condition Mustang or lots of mods to it then you should seek out collector car insurance that has a higher agreed value for the car. @Davedacarpainter should check this out too. You typical car insurance will only give you market value even though you have $10k into with new restoration and rebuilt motor you will only get $4k or less in the event your car is stolen or wrecked. Check out Haggerty or Grundy. I got a quote from grundy on my car, $8,500 agreed value for a little under $300 per year and it's full coverage (300/100) with towing, uninsured motorist etc just like you'd get from Farmers or anyone else.
Click to expand...
 

cleanLX

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#13
  • Mar 20, 2016
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2 kill switches hidden in hard to reach places.
1 for ignition, 1 for fuel... another easy one is pop the dizzy cap and remove the rotor.
I too am with Grundy, $30k agreed value, right around $300 (just over, don't recall exact number) a year, garaged, 3k miles a year... although I only put about 1k a year on it, primary vehicle is newer than 10 years old.
 
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jrichker

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SF Lex said:
Now this is a plan. Does the switch have to be a certain type ? Or any kill switch. I know i have one lying around somewhere. It looks like this, it says 240V. Hope this works. By the way you guys, i got Hagerty insurance. Luv it, $287 a year for full coverage. Miles not restricted, but i don't drive it daily. Its a weekend car.
Click to expand...

The design of the plan that I posted doesn't require an expensive or heavy duty switch. It just needs to be reliable and able to withstand being turned off and on frequently. When you turn it on, it needs to stay on and not turn off . This type of switch is labeled SPST (single pole, single throw). It is a NOT a momentary contact but a constant contact type switch.

Most push button switches and switches that spring the handle back when you let go of it are momentary contact switches. These will not work for a for a fuel pump kill switch.

More information about switches is available at https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/switch-basics/poles-and-throws-open-and-closed
 
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Benz510

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I'm running a viper pager alarm, kill switch and i also have the pedal lock that goes over the brake or clutch pedal so you can't engage them. I have a wheel boot also that i usually put on my ctsv. Overkill? Nehh..
 
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SF Lex

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Doesn't anyone use The Club any more ? Lol ..
 
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Benz510 said:
I'm running a viper pager alarm, kill switch and i also have the pedal lock that goes over the brake or clutch pedal so you can't engage them. I have a wheel boot also that i usually put on my ctsv. Overkill? Nehh..
Click to expand...
Not overkill at all IMO. I've had a couple cars in my lifetime stolen from me and both were found but lots of parts removed. The feeling of walking out to an empty parking spot where you last parked your vehicle is a terrible feeling I hope I never have to go through again. I have at least $10k invested in my Fox currently and I'm not done yet. Even if my car were stolen and collector car insurance covered my investment I'd still be crushed emotionally. The countless hours put in to the car wrenching, cleaning, and cherishing will only be a sad memory. I'd like the financial aspect covered just because that's being responsible but the emotional investment I have in my car can't be insured so I'd like to prevent that from happening with lots of preventive measures.
 
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FoxMustangLvr

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SF Lex said:
Doesn't anyone use The Club any more ? Lol ..
Click to expand...
I do and I use it!! Anything to make these jerks have to work harder to get my property. The more difficult you make it for them, the greater chance you have of them moving on to an easier target.
 
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SF Lex

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FoxMustangLvr said:
Not overkill at all IMO. I've had a couple cars in my lifetime stolen from me and both were found but lots of parts removed. The feeling of walking out to an empty parking spot where you last parked your vehicle is a terrible feeling I hope I never have to go through again. I have at least $10k invested in my Fox currently and I'm not done yet. Even if my car were stolen and collector car insurance covered my investment I'd still be crushed emotionally. The countless hours put in to the car wrenching, cleaning, and cherishing will only be a sad memory. I'd like the financial aspect covered just because that's being responsible but the emotional investment I have in my car can't be insured so I'd like to prevent that from happening with lots of preventive measures.
Click to expand...
I hear that, i know exactly what you mean. I too had some stolen, and one time all i got back was the shell of the car. I could not believe they stole everything, the only thing i had left was the leather stick shift i had put int he car. I kept it just to remember what i had. Unfortunately i only had liability too, lost everything. I know make sure i have full coverage on all my cars.
 

Mustang5L5

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Well, I have a garage but...

Kill switch hidden somewhere. What it kills I won't tell you, but you pretty much need to find out what isn't getting power, and then feed it in order to drive off in my car. Now also keep in mind I have a good knowledge of Mustang electrical, and have had the car apart a few times so the wiring and switch is well hidden. The only person who knows where it is is me, so I probably should write something into my will about that.

I also try to avoid posting pics with my plate in it. If you know the right people, you can get them run.
 
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