I have had mine for over 2 years and not a single problem. I know a few that run this clutch w/o a problem. If I recall, JayC had the same clutch on his N2O 2V running low to mid 11's with no problems either.
I'm looking to upgrade my clutch. What brand of TOB would you suggest? I'm not a tech but when I put a new clutch in my Mazda B4000 I also torque the pressure plate using to proper sequence laid out in my repair manual. I also torqued the flywheel according to the manual. That new clutch has worked great. Pearl02.
2. other techs that ran the pressure plate bolts down with a impact gun with out going in order or doing it in stages.. ( I get laughed at by other techs when they see me tourqing down the flywheel and the pressure plate in sequence and in stages with a tourqe wrench... "AHHHH just run the ****ing bolts down with a 1/2 impact gun AHHHHHH " is what they say..
From my experience 90 percent of failures that are blamed on the product is tech error when it comes to clutchs.The KC in my opinion is more sensitive to poor install than the centerforce..
Exactly, it usually is the installer. And you are right you have to tighten those PP to flywheel bolts with a torque wrench. They only call for 12-24ftlbs. I think I put mine at 18 or 20, because I wanted to be in the middle of that range. It wouldn't take much to break those tiny bolts in the flywheel.
I will add that 3 of my cars needed clutches while owning them. They all got the original flywheel resurfaced. I had it done at a machine shop though. Don't ever ever ever ever ever go to Murrays or Autozone. My cars were all fine. One is N/A, one is a blower car, and the other which is sold, was a HCI blower intercooled car. All have been great.
Yes I throw the one that came with the king cobra clutch away, and bought the one from ford, shop around here charger 500 to install, so i just put it in my closet for now.
A couple of things I wanted to clear up in this thread..
1. Use the Ford TOB
2. By tighten in stages I mean run each bolt down a little to pull the plate down even.. don't run one bolt all the way down and tourqe it and then go on to the next bolt.. ( many many people do this wrong)
When I did my 01 gt I did all this as well.Ford TOB,ford racing pilot bearing(suggested by LMSR)installed the PP in a criss-cross pattern...a lil bit on each one and then torqued to specs with a dab of thread locker and had the flywheel surfaced at a shop.For the month I had it afterwards it shifted so smooth but I used a Ram clutch of which I was impressed with on a stocker.
I always used these methods at replacing clutches and have never had one fail.
I remember years back I was having the clutch replaced by a shop on my Z28 and I told him when it came time for the new clutch to be bolted up I wanted to be there...and guess what he was about to do......YUP crank em all down with an air tool....One at a time that is.
if I ever take my car to the shop, I will be right in front of them and watch them.
like I take my car to the tire shop, they jack my car up using the rear differential, I told him " are you crazy ? put that god dam jack on the side, not on my differential !! " he told me it fine, lucky I have a ford manual with me, and I turn the page where it say do not use rear diffrent to put the jack, then he put the jack on the side. I make a complaint to the manerger, they cant take a short cut and jack the rear up using your rear differential as a support, ****ing dumb.
Did you break these clutches in properly? I think if the clutch went in 2 days you've got some serious install problems or started beating on it immediately??