I have the same scanner. Hook it up with it in the hold position. Start the car and you have to run it at 2000 RPM to warm up the car (Id just go for a 15 minute drive personally) and then turn it off for 10 seconds. Restart the car and put the switch to the test position. It will flash 4 times for the engine ID (V8) You then have to turn the steering wheel from center to one lock and back again hit the brake pedal and hit OD off if in an auto. If you get a single flash after the engine ID (6 - 20 seconds) then perform a brief WOT (completely depress the gas and release) You may or may not have to do it. After that the codes are sent. Once theyre sent, if you tap the throttle youll start the CB test. If you tap it again after that itll do the CB test with finer paremeters. You can do it a third time as well.
Do the KOEO (Key On Engine Off Test) first. Connect the code scanner, turn the ignition switch to run, but do not start the engine. Press the test button and the codes will dump out.
First of all, don't drive the car with the code scanner operating. It will do strange things if you try. The recommended proceedure is to get the engine warmed up, and then shut it off. Connect the code scanner, start the engine, & dump the KOER (Key On, Engine Running) Codes.
The cylider balance will hep locate weak or dead cylinders, bad spark plugs & bad injectors.
Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
First of all, don't drive the car with the code scanner operating. It will do strange things if you try. The recommended proceedure is to get the engine warmed up, and then shut it off. Connect the code scanner, start the engine, & dump the KOER (Key On, Engine Running) Codes.
The cylider balance will hep locate weak or dead cylinders, bad spark plugs & bad injectors.
Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.