Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

[gkomo]

I always liked those. Pics when you think of it.

I used to have a Yota Celica Hatch with a 22R that I worked over with the help of a company called, "LCE Engineering".

They're still in business if you feel the need for say... a blower.

Ive actually heard of LCE Engineering. I believe they sell short blocks among other things, from when i was casually researching rebuild kits for the heck of it. Mine has 255k miles on it, feels and runs strong still. Its mostly stock except for a small Dobinsons lift and the wheels/tires.

Pics:





The second picture is the newest i have. As you can see i painted the side steps black and removed the front tint from the windows (actually got a tint ticket, who woulda thought!)

I've actually searched for roots blowers for this, but alas, there are no California CARB legal superchargers for it.

 

[Trogdor]

My timing light is a Sears Craftsman 161.2134 that I bought back in the 90's. Still works today. Maybe you could find one on a popular auction site?

 

[Noobz347]

I got my last one at a garage sale.

I wonder what Hobo Freight has....

 

[gkomo]

I ended up buying the one @85GTStangGuy linked

 

[gkomo]

Think I got everything to build my new fuel pump assembly:

 

[gkomo]

Ok so all the install videos I’ve watched have like an actual fuel line hose and socket clamps… the kit I got from LMR has the white flexible plastic hose and those weird hose clamps. I feel like the ridged plastic flex hose would create turbulence with the fuel flow compared to a smooth fuel hose. Should I spring for actual fuel line hose and different hose clamps?



If anyone knows what those other two pieces to the left of the hose clamps are please share.

Edit: ahh the plastic flex line is E85 compatible. Not that I’m running E85 but at least I know. I did buy some fuel hoses but not an actual ‘s’ hose.

 

[gkomo]

Got the pump assembly completed, anyone see anything glaringly incorrect with it?










I haven’t done the pinch clamps yet because I don’t have the right tool for that type of clamp, debating on removing them and putting normal screw type hose clamps on.

 

[Noobz347]

Unless it's got the blue teeths, you're going have to put it into the tank.

 

[AeroCoupe]

The two items to left of the clamps are fuel line locks.

 

[gkomo]

The two items to left of the clamps are fuel line locks.

Must be on the connections outside the tank. Once my sending unit arrives I’ll tackle all this.

 

[AeroCoupe]

I believe you will need them to connect the lines to the pump hanger. Shown here at 1:00


View: https://youtu.be/DCBrZsbIzt0?feature=shared

 

[gkomo]

Ok thanks everyone. So last question tho, the ridged plastic fuel line (shown circled in green) is totally fine? I’ve never seen this type of hose for fuel pumps:



One other thing I did was ziptie the electrical wires to the hangar. Is that a no no?

 

[Noobz347]

Depends on what the zip ties are made of. If they're oil and gas resistant then no problem.

 

[AeroCoupe]

The white flex hose is just fine. Aeroquip also supplies it with their pumps and they know a little about fuel systems.

340 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump, 83-97 EFI Fox Body Mustang

P/N 18638 Fox Body Mustang 83-97 Stealth 340 & HangerAssembly Fits all 83-97 Mustang OEM - EFI Fuel Tanks Billet Fuel Pump Hanger and High Flow 340 Stealth Pump assembly drops into stock tank. Supports high-flow, high horsepower combinations in stock 83-97 Mustang EFI fuel tanks. Eliminates...

aeromotiveinc.com

 

[gkomo]

Car is dropped off at the welder to do the subframe connectors. I was chatting with him when I dropped it off. He is building a Bonneville salt flat ‘72 mustang 2 and had some other cool projects around his shop. Also was taking a load of beefy looking fire pit support things (for the Torrey Pines Lodge) to powder coating when I pulled up. Anyways, seemed to be a very good welder and the high horsepower top speed project at least instilled some confidence in me.

 

[gkomo]

Ugh, nothing ever goes right, lol. Got a call from the welder to come on down, needs to show me something. Never good news to hear that. I go down to his shop just now and he shows me that the drivers side front and rear subframes don't align right (like not in a line down the car), like if you put the subframe connector where it should be on the front, the rear is off by like 1/2" side to side, and vice versa. TBH, both front subframes look beat to hell but he said the passenger side will work fine. Its almost as if years of jacking the car up has pushed the drivers front subframe up and inward to make it cockeyed compared to the rear.

He called MM to get their opinion on what to do. I'm just hoping they don't suggest taking it to a frame puller or something.

 

[AeroCoupe]

It’s for a 1995 but if memory serves me correct the frame dimensions are the same for the Foxes.

The rear of the front subframes and the front of the rear subframes don’t line up from the factory.

 

[gkomo]

It’s for a 1995 but if memory serves me correct the frame dimensions are the same for the Foxes.

The rear of the front subframes and the front of the rear subframes don’t line up from the factory.

Thank you, I’ve passed this along to him. I see where it shows the subframes not being perfectly parallel but he literally showed me by holding up the subframe connectors and the passenger side all lined up nice and neat but the drivers side was off when holding it up. So something isn’t right I’m just curious what lol

 

[Noobz347]

It’s for a 1995 but if memory serves me correct the frame dimensions are the same for the Foxes.

The rear of the front subframes and the front of the rear subframes don’t line up from the factory.

Resource Section

 

[bird_dog0347]

If it is that far off and you measure it and find it is that out of spec, please just put it on a frame puller and fix it right the first time. Certainly don't weld in SFC's to lock in the wrong dimensions.