Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

Another thing i noticed when i was underneath the car looking at the subframes. There was a connector unplugged like near the tailshaft of the transmission just tucked up, and the other unplugged end like more up on the top of the transmission around that area. I'll be curious what that plug is for, why it was unplugged, and maybe plugging it back in will get rid of my code 67.
 
If it is that far off and you measure it and find it is that out of spec, please just put it on a frame puller and fix it right the first time. Certainly don't weld in SFC's to lock in the wrong dimensions.
I will say, when i was looking at it myself, it seemed like the drivers front subframe was like pushed up and/or mangled from improper jacking up of the car. I don't know if i would say the frame is out of whack, just that its so mangled from jacking up the car that the subframe connector doesn't sit flush and thats whats causing the misalignment. I'm no expert so this is just my opinion on visually looking at it with the subframe connector held in place.

Either way, the welder John said this morning, "I spoke with the manufacturer (Maximum Motorsports) yesterday and they said we should be good to go as long as we can get some welds on where the tabs connect".
 
Well, they're in!

Subframe Connectors 1.webp

Subframe Connectors 2.webp
 
Those don’t look mangled up to me.:shrug:
Well that’s good, the bottom of the frame rails looked pretty neat up to me.
Three plugs for a T5: NGS (top of trans), reverse lights (round plug on side of trans), and VSS (speedo gear holder).

1737675561406.webp
Must be something different cause this plug was way back down at the rear of the transmission.
I cupped my hand over my mouth and gasped when I saw the car [not] sitting on the wheels.


:hide:


Somebody tell me that my fears are unfounded.

Edit: They spoke to MM to they [had] to know.
Yes he told me his plan to support the car on the wheels when actually doing the welding. He was going to support the entire car on wood framed boxes. Can I guarantee that’s what happened? No, lol just gotta trust him I suppose. And yes he spoke to MM twice plus had the installation instructions.
 
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Yes he told me his plan to support the car on the wheels when actually doing the welding. He was going to support the entire car on wood framed boxes. Can I guarantee that’s what happened? No, lol just gotta trust him I suppose. And yes he spoke to MM twice plus had the installation instructions.
Hey, so long as the dude doing the work knows about it and understands the [why] of it... then deviations are authorized.

I exhaled knowing everybody involved is aware. :D
Yeah, I was concerned too at first! As for the rails being dented from the jacks and jack stands previously it's not that bad... the way you described it I thought that they were off from side to side (driver's to passenger's).
 
Yeah, I was concerned too at first! As for the rails being dented from the jacks and jack stands previously it's not that bad... the way you described it I thought that they were off from side to side (driver's to passenger's).
I’ll find out what he did tomorrow when I pick it up. I mean I saw with my own eyes the drivers side didn’t line up but maybe what I think is bad isn’t actually bad haha
 
I’ll find out what he did tomorrow when I pick it up. I mean I saw with my own eyes the drivers side didn’t line up but maybe what I think is bad isn’t actually bad haha

Just walk up and open and close both doors and eyeball the gap while it's sitting flat. Should tell you all you need to know.
 
Picked up the car today, man I forgot how much of a difference subframe connectors make. Just on the short 4 mile drive home I could tell a big difference in rigidity. Poked my head under the car, all welds looks good and it’s all painted with some kind of zinc rich paint (so he says). Door gaps look perfect (well, not the drivers side as stated before). Two thumbs up.
 
My guess is the gray is primer and you need to shoot it with some enamel spray paint as soon a as you can get to it. All of the zinc rich coatings that we specify at work are primers that get topped with a urethane.

If you find out exactly what he used. Paint is put down in systems and you can put a top coat on a primer and it won’t bond due to incompatibility.
 
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My guess is the gray is primer and you need to shoot it with some enamel spray paint as soon a as you can get to it. All of the zinc rich coatings that we specify at work are primers that get topped with a urethane.

If you find out exactly what he used. Paint is put down in systems and you can put a top coat on a primer and it won’t bond due to incompatibility.
I asked him specifically about painting black over it and he told me the paint currently on it is not a primer but he was unsure if I could paint over it without any adverse effects. I told him I don’t mind leaving it as is but was curious anyways.