Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

[gkomo]

These things really cool. I've used them on boats but still haven't bought myself a kit.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTEeAEnqdJU





and then there are these things with solder already build in:

Amazon.com

As for the issues you had above, it sounds like your iron is not hot enough.
I have a 60W Pen iron that I use for small work and a 120W with a half-decent stand for heavier stuff.

I bought a 60W weller pen type solder thing. Let it sit under the wires for a while. I don’t know how quickly I need to replace the tips, I was moving the wires like down the tip because it seemed to work better on ‘fresh metal’ so to say.

Anyways, will just use crimp connectors and heat shrink.

Still need to fish the old filter out of the tank… it’s been cold and rainy here lately.

 

[Noobz347]

It's really tough to give a soldering class through threads but...

I have solder tips that are 20 years old.

I season them for first use.
Always keep solder on the tip when it's hot wiping it off [just] prior to applying heat to the thing I'm soldering.
As soon as I complete that solder connection, I put fresh solder on the tip and put the pen back in the cradle.

When I put the iron away, I solder the tip and let it cool.
After it's fully heated for the next job, clean off the old solder, apply new solder to the tip, wipe, then solder.

You still need more wattage. 60W is too light for most automotive gauge wire. The longer the iron takes to heat the component you're trying to solder the more damage there is to insulation and other components. You want to make [hot spot] quick and fast, aply solder until it [flows] then let heat dissipate rapidly into the rest of the wire or component.

In other words:
The iron has to be powerful enough to heat the wire and components to the temperature necessary to make solder flow. You're not melting the solder. You're heating your component or wire to the temp to melt the solder.

Also: Flux core only.

 

[AeroCoupe]

If you use a Weller soldering gun then pull the trigger and get it hot prior to touching the wires. This reduces the heat input to the wire which will end up melting the insulation like Noobz is saying and you won’t get a cold solder which is worthless.

 

[gkomo]

If you use a Weller soldering gun then pull the trigger and get it hot prior to touching the wires. This reduces the heat input to the wire which will end up melting the insulation like Noobz is saying and you won’t get a cold solder which is worthless.

It is a cheaper solder pen… doesn’t have any sort of temperature gauge. I turned it on, let it sit for a bit then touched the bottom of the wires… like a minute later it finally got the wires hot enough to melt the solder, but like I mentioned it seemed to just make a solder blob. I mean it worked I couldn’t pull the wires apart but it looked damn ugly.

I repeated this same process for the second two wires and could never get it to work right. So I know I’m doing something wrong.

Either way I’ll practice some other time for now I’ll try to get the fuel tank wrapped up this weekend. Don’t think it’s supposed to rain anymore.

 

[AeroCoupe]

You need more wattage like Noobz indicated. Shouldn’t take hardly any time for the gun to get the wires up to temp and the solder to melt and bond to the wires. This is the one I have but I bought it years ago:

BigBang

www.weller-tools.com

 

[limp]

These things really cool. I've used them on boats but still haven't bought myself a kit.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTEeAEnqdJU





and then there are these things with solder already build in:

Amazon.com

As for the issues you had above, it sounds like your iron is not hot enough.
I have a 60W Pen iron that I use for small work and a 120W with a half-decent stand for heavier stuff.

This would be a great option for a 2 to 1 wire connection....

 

[nickyb]

Once you get the wire ring done, you'll have to drain the tank to get to that filter as said before. My filler neck rubber grommet fell into my tank about I don't know a couple of years ago and try as I did couldn't get that sucker out and my tank was still in so I just left it in ,thank God I haven't had issues.

 

[gkomo]

Once you get the wire ring done, you'll have to drain the tank to get to that filter as said before. My filler neck rubber grommet fell into my tank about I don't know a couple of years ago and try as I did couldn't get that sucker out and my tank was still in so I just left it in ,thank God I haven't had issues.

Im going to, if you can picture it, like makeshift a large backscratcher type contraption and just scrape it along the bottom of the tank through the filler neck. I’m really trying not to drain the tank.

 

[Noobz347]

Drain the MF tank!

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Not sure if I missed it, but can you drive it until the tank is almost empty and drop it after that? It’s easy to drop, even by yourself.

 

[gkomo]

Not sure if I missed it, but can you drive it until the tank is almost empty and drop it after that? It’s easy to drop, even by yourself.

Tank is already dropped and sitting on some saw horses, i did drive it down to like 1/8th tank. My dilemma at the moment is just fishing out the filter that popped off the first try of putting the pump assembly in, or draining the tank completely so the filter just floats to the filler neck hole itself.

Second try of the pump assembly is ready to go in, got it all buttoned up last night. Just need to get the filter out, put the pump assembly in, carry the tank around the car, put the tank strap stud kit in and raise and connect everything.

Almost there!

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Gotcha

 

[gkomo]

Hell ya! Went with my ‘backscratcher’ method, got it out on my second attempt. Got the new pump assembly in, seal looks good. Got the tank strap studs in, just need to put the tank back in and hook everything up.

Burned through my 30 minutes of free time today so the rest will have to wait.

 

[gkomo]

I watched the LMR video on the tank strap studs. They didn’t use any loctite or anything, would it be wise to use some red loctite on the studs and blue on the nuts?

 

[General karthief]

Good insurance.
Better than Progressive.

 

[Noobz347]

Don't use red, use blue. LoL

You don't want to be up there heating with a torch to soften the red.

 

[gkomo]

Update:

no update, tank still sitting there

 

[gkomo]

Don't use red, use blue. LoL

You don't want to be up there heating with a torch to soften the red.

I meant like Red Loctite on the stud to J-nut ( i think thats what its called ), basically where the stud threads into the vehicle. And then Blue Loctite on the tank strap to stud threads/nut.

 

[limp]

I meant like Red Loctite on the stud to J-nut ( i think thats what its called ), basically where the stud threads into the vehicle. And then Blue Loctite on the tank strap to stud threads/nut.

Blue for both would be best. " in my opinion"...

 

[Noobz347]

I meant like Red Loctite on the stud to J-nut ( i think thats what its called ), basically where the stud threads into the vehicle. And then Blue Loctite on the tank strap to stud threads/nut.

I just envision a day when... "Motuha effin' ".

I get it though, that you want the studs to stay in place and only the nuts to move. I'll wager though, that when you're trying to get it out that you won't care [how] it comes out so long as it does... And with as little argument as necessary.