Sweet, I think I’m gonna remove my emblem.It's adhesive mounted, with no locating holes.
Sweet, I think I’m gonna remove my emblem.
Damnit, looks like you are correct at least looking at a replacement emblem from LMR.I think there are 3 locator holes for the Ford emblem on the hatch.
I was hoping to go the debadged look but don’t want three holes just chillin so I’ll just leave it be.Just remove the prongs on the rear of the replacement emblem and use 3M automotive double sided trim tape to affix it to the rear of the car.
The prongs will snap off. File any remaining lumps down so the adhesive lays flat.
Got it. I Mis-understood what you were looking to do. I Thought you wanted to replace it but didn’t have the holes on your hatch and was concerned the new badge wouldnt work because of the prongs. I removed my post but you were too fast to see it. lolI was hoping to go the debadged look but don’t want three holes just chillin so I’ll just leave it be.
Got the new connector in. Couldn’t figure out how to de-pin it. It’s not like a normal connector. I didn’t want fubar the new connector trying to get them out so I’ll probably just splice in the entire new pigtail.I would just get this one and be done with it. You may be able to depin the original one and just use the new connector on the old wires which will keep you from having to cut, connect, and heat shrink the connections from the original wires to the new pigtail.
Yes the K member is safe to jack up from and put your stands. Always do the shake test before crawling under. I also remove my wheels and place them under the car for added protection just incase.
Well whoops, I already ordered and received the Energy Suspension motor/trans mount kit from RockAuto. If my research is correct these should slightly lower the engine like 1993 convertible mounts do?Ask the "which mount" question before you order. The way I understand it, the OEM mounts are hard to come by and the replacements are slightly different however, I don't recall all of the particulars.
I know there's folks in there that do.
Well whoops, I already ordered and received the Energy Suspension motor/trans mount kit from RockAuto. If my research is correct these should slightly lower the engine like 1993 convertible mounts do?
I think it’s the Prothane mounts that tend to raise the engine. Just what I was reading when trying to decide. Any pros/cons to captured versus open?I guess we will see.
What I recall is 'hearing' the same and they ended up being taller.
The other thing that comes to mind about the 'convertible mounts' is that they are captured. I think all the replacement mounts are now that way.
Any pros/coms to captured versus open?
I also remember being recommended if you get poly mounts for the engine get rubber for the trans to allow for some shock absorption but it's been 20 years since I replaced mine. I bought all poly mounts then remember someone telling me I should've got a rubber mount for my T-5.Well whoops, I already ordered and received the Energy Suspension motor/trans mount kit from RockAuto. If my research is correct these should slightly lower the engine like 1993 convertible mounts do?
I removed my blower to fix a water leak and didn't even think about doing this. Did you just use generic sticky foam?Got the blower motor all cleaned up and back together with new seals:
Old:
Mid cleaning (getting the adhesive off this flap was a pain):
New:
One thing I did not like about the LMR kit was the butyl strips were completely stuck to the package they come in… basically had to just rip chunks off then ‘roll’ them into the right shape and place them in the channel.
LMR sells a blower motor seal 'kit' that comes with the flap foam, opening foam seal and some butyl strips for mating the two halves together. I'm sure you could accomplish this cheaper by buying some foam seals and doing it yourself, but i'm always in a hurry so i pay for convenience.I removed my blower to fix a water leak and didn't even think about doing this. Did you just use generic sticky foam?
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