Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Ohh haha, yes I need one. I need to search a little more in the transmission tunnel, I have to assume it fell of and is sitting somewhere between the console and tunnel?
Off topic, but I’ve been thinking about front control arms to pair with my MM coilovers when the time comes to install those.
I will/would be going with MM as well… so I was thinking since I have a SN95 rear end which increases the rear track width, should I go with the SN95 front control arms as well? Per MMs description they increase the front fox tract width by 0.9” each side. Would these then make my front/rear tract widths roughly the same therefore proving less potential understeer?
Second question, would getting the forward offset help with weight distribution of the car? The forward offset arms move the front tires forward 0.75”. Anyone know what kind of fender/ground effect modifications would be necessary to accommodate that? I already rub up front so I know it would just make it worse, but just more cutting to do?
I will/would be going with MM as well… so I was thinking since I have a SN95 rear end which increases the rear track width, should I go with the SN95 front control arms as well? Per MMs description they increase the front fox tract width by 0.9” each side. Would these then make my front/rear tract widths roughly the same therefore proving less potential understeer?
Second question, would getting the forward offset help with weight distribution of the car? The forward offset arms move the front tires forward 0.75”. Anyone know what kind of fender/ground effect modifications would be necessary to accommodate that? I already rub up front so I know it would just make it worse, but just more cutting to do?
On a street driven car the answer to both is no. You will push the wheels out further with the longer control arms which gets into stretching the fenders and some do custom flairs just to keep the tires under the sheet metal. This of course if you are running wide tires up front. The 3/4” forward offset arms will most likely require you to trim the fender extensions to clear the tires when turning lock to lock especially on the 90 and down fenders.
I have a full MM car and watched my buddy do all this and was like no way in hell. Granted he was running 275’s on 17x9’s up front.
I have a full MM car and watched my buddy do all this and was like no way in hell. Granted he was running 275’s on 17x9’s up front.
Last edited:
I am a firm believer in stock K-member and A-arms on street driven cars.
I mean, I'm not looking to shave a 1/10 off of the time it takes to get to the grocery store.
On the other hand, it has been a few years since I've seen an aftermarket A-arm break on the street. It used to be more common. Perhaps they're made better now or people just aren't swapping them out as much. Not sure.
I mean, I'm not looking to shave a 1/10 off of the time it takes to get to the grocery store.
On the other hand, it has been a few years since I've seen an aftermarket A-arm break on the street. It used to be more common. Perhaps they're made better now or people just aren't swapping them out as much. Not sure.
I’m just a ‘while I’m in there’ kinda guy. I’m sure my control arm bushings are shot (need to check) and they are probably original. With the coilovers I won’t need the stock style control arm. But the MM ones are also $400 so ya. Got time to decide.
I need to check my wheel to fender distance now, eyeballing it they look tucked in a bit so I’m wondering if I have room to move them outward (if I went with the SN95 version) due to negative camber (MM specs for a street car). I don’t want to have to do flares or cut metal… I don’t mind cutting the ground effects though since I already have.
I need to check my wheel to fender distance now, eyeballing it they look tucked in a bit so I’m wondering if I have room to move them outward (if I went with the SN95 version) due to negative camber (MM specs for a street car). I don’t want to have to do flares or cut metal… I don’t mind cutting the ground effects though since I already have.
I have MM Fox zero offset arms on my Coupe and run 245/40R17’s with zero issues with the MM coil overs. This is also with the MM k-member, 96+ spindles, and MM caster/camber plates.
I whole heartily agree with Noobz in that if it’s a street car and you do not need the additional clearance that a tubular k-member gives just keep the stock one and stock control arms.
I whole heartily agree with Noobz in that if it’s a street car and you do not need the additional clearance that a tubular k-member gives just keep the stock one and stock control arms.
Definitely not going kmember (for the foreseeable future), was just thinking if my control arm bushings are old and worn out to replace the whole arms with something better.
Wouldn’t the 96+ spindles with fox control arms increase your track width about the same as 94/95 spindles with SN95 control arms?
Maybe the sn95 arms but just zero offset?
Wouldn’t the 96+ spindles with fox control arms increase your track width about the same as 94/95 spindles with SN95 control arms?
Maybe the sn95 arms but just zero offset?
Well instead of guessing, i decided to go straight to the source and reach out to MM.
As @AeroCoupe mentioned, MM Tech also said there would definitely need to be significant fender modifications/flaring when using the SN95 A-arms. However, he said the forward offset Fox A-arms shouldn't require too much modifications. His exact response was, "Get the Forward offset Fox arms. Part # MMFCA-4 with your stock k-member. It will fit. Maybe some fenderlining trimming. Worth the effort."
So, if i MAYBE do spring for the MM a-arms, i'll stick with the Fox specific, forward offset version.
As @AeroCoupe mentioned, MM Tech also said there would definitely need to be significant fender modifications/flaring when using the SN95 A-arms. However, he said the forward offset Fox A-arms shouldn't require too much modifications. His exact response was, "Get the Forward offset Fox arms. Part # MMFCA-4 with your stock k-member. It will fit. Maybe some fenderlining trimming. Worth the effort."
So, if i MAYBE do spring for the MM a-arms, i'll stick with the Fox specific, forward offset version.
I tried searching but couldn't find any myself. I always thought, at least for the 1990 and older Foxes, that the wheels looked too close together and too much body hung off the front end. Moving the tires forward might help with that visual appeal as well. The newer Fox bigger wheel well arches helped with this 'visual' dilemma. I don't mind cutting plastic though, even though i cut two large holes in my hood. Something about cutting up fender arches seems more scary and unnecessary.
Edit: couple posts down in this thread, a guy is running the MM kmember and forward offset a-arms, so he's got his wheels pushed 1.5" forward, so not apples to apples but you can get the idea.
Or, an easier search may be a Fox utilizing the MM kmember, and stock arms because that will also push the wheels forward .75".
Last edited:
DadLife0724
Active Member
MM offers three control arms. With a stock k-member they move the wheel as follows:
Reverse Offset - 3/4” towards the rear
Non-Offset - keeps the factor position
Forward Offset - 3/4” towards the front
The control arm mounts on the MM’s k-member are moved 3/4” forward so the wheel moves as follows:
Reverse Offset - keeps the factor position
Non-Offset - 3/4” towards the front
Forward Offset - 1-1/2” towards the front
Reverse Offset - 3/4” towards the rear
Non-Offset - keeps the factor position
Forward Offset - 3/4” towards the front
The control arm mounts on the MM’s k-member are moved 3/4” forward so the wheel moves as follows:
Reverse Offset - keeps the factor position
Non-Offset - 3/4” towards the front
Forward Offset - 1-1/2” towards the front
Found a picture of my 93 Coupe so this is with the wheels moved forward 3/4”. Front suspension is as follows: MM k-member, non-offset control arms, 96+ spindles, 17x8 wheels (+35mm offset), 245/40R17’s
90 and down have the smaller wheel openings and from what I recall require some trimming if set up like this. Mine is really close.
90 and down have the smaller wheel openings and from what I recall require some trimming if set up like this. Mine is really close.
Last edited:
So the ‘96+ spindles move the wheel outward 8.1 mm. The 94/95 spindles move the wheel 3.1 mm outward.
The SN95 control arm moves the wheel 3/4” or 19.05mm
Ok much bigger difference than I thought.
This is all speculation and planning, not buying anything tomorrow since I don’t need them at the moment and can’t work on my car anyways. But when you can’t work on your car you have to resort to planning/dreaming.
DadLife0724
Active Member
3/4" looks way better than the 1½" in the photo gkomo posted the link to. All that extra space towards the rear of the wheel well is uncalled for.Found a picture of my 93 Coupe so this is with the wheels moved forward 3/4”. Front suspension is as follows: MM k-member, non-offset control arms, 96+ spindles, 17x8 wheels, (+35mm offset) 245/40R17’s
90 and down have the smaller wheel openings and from what I recall require som trimming if set up like this. Mine is really close.
I find the longer I take to do something (forced or not) the better I research it which leads to me either doing a better job at it or figuring out I don’t need to mess with it.
Similar threads
