Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

Ya in hindsight could’ve just painted behind the plate for $2 in paint. I mean don’t get me wrong this piece looks good and professional, but not necessary.
It does look good and professional and it’s removable which is nice.
Maybe tape up those lenses and hit the gray trim with SEM trim black. That would be a huge improvement and pull it all together IMO.

Edit: Just noticed you have the thin horizontal lines across the lenses so maybe spraying it is easier said than done… either way it looks clean.
 
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So i've been daily driving my Mustang trying to get the Valvoline Restore and Protect moving and grooving around in the engine, granted, its only been like a little over a week. My #7 cylinder is still giving me issues. I was driving the car yesterday and and it started running a little more rough and seemingly misfiring/bucking more at low rpms with load. Not unlike it did before, so i knew something was up with my #7 spark plug. So my first plan was to pull the plug and clean it thinking there would be fresh oil sludge on it. I took it out at work and sat at my desk wiping it down, which didn't really work. I took it outside and and sprayed Brake Cleaner on it and kept wiping. Didn't really improve the look of the plug head. All black carbon fouled looking, but not oily sludge like from my photos a while back or what i was expecting. I did notice some fresh looking oil on the plug threads (but not above the threads) which all coincides with too much oil is getting into that cylinder for some reason. So I started looking up plug photos online, and it seems like i may be running really rich on that cylinder to warrant the blackened plug?

Anywho, with cleaning my existing plug not really doing its job i popped a fresh plug in (correctly gapped) and all is well, car is running seemingly fine now until it fouls this one.

My catch can came in the mail. IF i can find time to install that, would it be better installed in the stock PCV line from lower intake to upper intake. OR, between the oil fill neck and the airbox line from the s/c'r kit? Or it doesn't matter?
Thank you aerocoupe for chiming in and providing feedback. Anyone else have any thoughts? Just don’t know why one cylinder is giving me black carbon fried plug when everyone else seems fine. Just a stock longblock.

I’m not typically one to just throw parts at a car but I did order new Bosch O2 sensors just in case I remove the drivers side sensor and it looks like garbage. I’d have to go back through my thread to look at the photos of the plugs but if I recall correctly the entire drivers bank didn’t look ‘great’, just #7 is obviously the worst of the bunch.
 
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Might be a dumb question, but is there a way to tell what degree thermostat i have installed, without removing it (and the housing)? or to test if its stuck open?

I drove the mustang to work today which is like a 15 minute mixed side street/freeway commute (mostly freeway) and when i got to work i ran a KOEO and KOER test. KOEO code 11/10 (great) but when i ran the KOER test i got code 21. Is 15 minutes of side street/freeway driving not long enough to get the car up to temp? I would have thought so, its not super cold here in San Diego (although a 'chilly' morning i guess).

Also, i know its a dummy gauge but my temp gauge mostly always sits near the bottom of NORMAL. It moves so i know its working but i don't think i've ever seen it get to even the midpoint even sitting in traffic with the A/C going.

I ask because i'm wondering if the PO installed a 'cooler' thermostat or its stuck open and my car never really gets up to the correct operating temperature in my typical driving commutes which (not 100% sure) could affect the fuel mixture based on the ECT sensor right?

I purchased a new thermostat housing/gasket/195 degree thermostat and will change that at some point. I wanted the new thermostat housing more because it has a bung to add another temp sensor for my Autometer Coolant Temp gauge so i bought a new thermostat just because it would all be coming apart anyways.
 
In my quest to stockpile more parts for future things, I bought a Ford 1994/95 GT MAF and housing. From my research this is a direct swap and the transfer functions will work. Can someone sanity check me?

I read (multiple threads on the internet) but also one by jritchker where he listed compatible and directly swappable MAFs into a Fox.
 
Bueller, bueller.

Well, living with my parents has been going about as well as one could imagine. My mom got pretty damn sick where she had to go to the hospital, and with a 3 month old (and 4 year old), we were like, nope, peace out. Not trying to pass that onto the kiddos. So we've been in an AirBnB this whole past week letting her recuperate. That also means i haven't been driving the stang this whole week because i left it at their place.
 
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I wish her a speedy and full recovery.

Someday you will be able to look Back at all this and laugh. A temporary situation just for now. Keep the chin up.
Thank you! She ended up 'just' having Bronchitis which i don't think is too serious.

I sure hope so because right now we feel like we are in the trenches! haha Doing this with a baby may have been a mistake... too late now though, our house is tore up to shreds.
 
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You need a yurt.

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I was planning on cutting off the flange to keep it more 'stock' looking for a Foxbody. Then just running my piping over whats left.

I think that adapter is too big (80-90mm) but i know what you're talking about.
 
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I was planning on cutting off the flange to keep it more 'stock' looking for a Foxbody. Then just running my piping over whats left.

I think that adapter is too big (80-90mm) but i know what you're talking about.

If you modify the housing you will mess with the flow over the sensor.

How much is anybody's guess.
 
Hmm i'll have to think of something then. Maybe cut the flange off not parallel to the flange but perpendicular to it, like 'outside' of the MAF tube, or something.

Or just try to find a flange adapter. Not gonna happen for a while anyways.