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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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LCA Trouble

  • Thread starter Thread starter Shakerhood
  • Start date Start date Jun 8, 2005

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,355
207
114
Ohio
Jun 8, 2005
#1
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #1
I went to change my rear coil springs tonight so I put the car on stands, buzzed off the sway bar, put a jack under the LCA and took the nut off. The problem is I cant get the bolt to come out. It was frozen so tight my Impact Gun didnt work until after several tries. It broke loose, but all the bolt does is spins, it will not back out. Anyone had similar problems, and how did you get the bolt out? Also if anyone has an alternate method to remove the rear spring other than dropping down the control arm, I would appreciate it!
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,355
207
114
Ohio
Jun 8, 2005
#2
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #2
TTT, Help!
 
S

SlowGT

Founding Member
Jun 17, 1999
826
0
0
Columbia Co, PA
Jun 8, 2005
#3
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #3
If I recall, those bolts aren't threaded in. Sounds like you just need a bigger hammer
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,355
207
114
Ohio
Jun 8, 2005
#4
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #4
SlowGT said:
If I recall, those bolts aren't threaded in. Sounds like you just need a bigger hammer
Click to expand...
I think you are right, there might be a sleeve in there. I tried whacking it with a 3 Lb Sledge, but it is a bad angle with the disc and backing plate in the way. My last resort is to take of the Caliper, the Rotor and the Dust Shield so I can get a straight shot at it with the sledge, but I am hoping it doesnt come to that!
 
S

SlowGT

Founding Member
Jun 17, 1999
826
0
0
Columbia Co, PA
Jun 8, 2005
#5
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #5
If you've got the nut off, get some wintergreen oil back long the bolt so it can work its way inside the sleeve. Come back tomorrow and it'll come right out.
 

hotrodnut

Member
Jul 12, 2004
672
0
17
North Florida
Jun 8, 2005
#6
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #6
I would just disconnect the shocks and lower the rear differential enough to take the springs out, I've never had to remove the control arms to change the springs.
 
S

SlowGT

Founding Member
Jun 17, 1999
826
0
0
Columbia Co, PA
Jun 8, 2005
#7
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #7
hotrodnut said:
I would just disconnect the shocks and lower the rear differential enough to take the springs out, I've never had to remove the control arms to change the springs.
Click to expand...


That sounds quite a bit better than one arm at a time
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,355
207
114
Ohio
Jun 8, 2005
#8
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #8
Yeah I kinda hoped there was a better way to change the springs other than what the Ford Service Manual said.
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
22
49
Jun 8, 2005
#9
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #9
get the pressure of the springs off them, then wack them out. It's very simple to change the rear springs and control arms, not sure what the ford manual says.
 
J

jerry beach

Founding Member
May 20, 2002
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46
Ocala,FL
Jun 8, 2005
#10
  • Jun 8, 2005
  • #10
You may need to take your rear brake lines loose so you dont bend them when lowering the rear end. I have always pulled the control arm bolts. You just need two jacks. One goes under the LCA and the other under the dogbone. The second one is used to twist the rear end housing slightly to the bolt is free.

My original bolt was rusted to the steel sleeve in the bushing on one side. I ended up cutting both ends off it with a sawzall and driving it out with a punch from under the car.
 
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