LCA/UCA suggestions for mountain carving...

[elite130]

I don't do any drag racing or auto-x, all I do is head up to the mountains and carve the mountain turns. What would be the best LCA/UCA's for this? I am leaning to the MM LCA's w/ FRPP UCA's. What do you think? Would I notice a big difference, or a slight difference?

I have waiting to be installed: BBK specific rate lowering springs, Bilstein shocks/struts, MM C/C plates, poly-urethane front swaybar mounts/endlinks, and poly-urethane steering rack bushings. I want to do all suspension items at once and need to know what the best combo would be for mountain driving. Thanks for any help!

 

[san~man]

Add in:
Full length subframe connectors
PHB

Do all that and you should be handling good.

BTW, why BBK? If I were you I'd sell/return those and get some H&R's.

 

[elite130]

Add in:
Full length subframe connectors
PHB

Do all that and you should be handling good.

BTW, why BBK? If I were you I'd sell/return those and get some H&R's.

What's wrong with BBK springs???

I got them brand new for $50.00. I also like the specific rate springs.

 

[bakos24]

What's wrong with BBK springs???

I got them brand new for $50.00. I also like the specific rate springs.

nothing wrong with BBK, some of there items suck, but I think there springs are pretty good. I had mine on for about 4 years now and no problems with them at all.

 

[elite130]

nothing wrong with BBK, some of there items suck, but I think there springs are pretty good. I had mine on for about 4 years now and no problems with them at all.

Do you have the specific rate or the progressive rate? How do they ride?

 

[bakos24]

Do you have the specific rate or the progressive rate? How do they ride?

I cant remember which ones I have. I got them so long ogo. I cant remember if I spent the extra money for the progessive or went the cheap route with the specific rate. Whichever they are they do ride pretty good and have had no problems with the at all. If you got them for 50 bucks then I dont think you are going to be disappointed.

 

[elite130]

I've had an Eibach Pro-Kit and Ford "C" springs on my old '98 v6. The Eibachs were sagging pretty good after 70,000 miles (Eibachs seem to have a problem with this), so I switched over to the Ford "C" springs. I wish the drop of the "C" springs was abit more, but I liked them a lot more than the Eibach's. The ride was a bit rougher, but the car handled a lot better. I was actually excited when I found out the BBK's were specific rate rather than Progressive. I guess I'll see.

 

[wms004]

I've had an Eibach Pro-Kit and Ford "C" springs on my old '98 v6. The Eibachs were sagging pretty good after 70,000 miles (Eibachs seem to have a problem with this), so I switched over to the Ford "C" springs. I wish the drop of the "C" springs was abit more, but I liked them a lot more than the Eibach's. The ride was a bit rougher, but the car handled a lot better. I was actually excited when I found out the BBK's were specific rate rather than Progressive. I guess I'll see.

What are the spring rates front and back for the BBK's?
I had the bullitt springs (600lbs. front and 250lbs. rear) and they weren't stiff enough for me. So I ended up spending more money by doing it right, which meant MM stuff.

I'd recommend at least a spring with over 700lbs. front and 270lbs. rear with bilstein dampers.

You are right on with the MM LCA's and FRPP Uppers, though unless you have a lot of miles on your current UCA's you can probably just leave them and replace the LCA's along with Quad shock removal.
Wade

 

[QU!CK]

Have you considered going with a MM Panard bar instead of FRPP UCA's?


-J

 

[san~man]

What's wrong with BBK springs???

I got them brand new for $50.00. I also like the specific rate springs.

H&R's are proven, made well, and designed for the kits MM sells. The old saying "you get what you pay for" usually applies.

You already have their LCA's....may as well get the same set up MM recommends. Just a suggestion.

Have you considered going with a MM Panard bar instead of FRPP UCA's?

See my first post.....

 

[RacinJason231]

I got their whole rear box. I love it. If you can swing it, get the panhard rod, sway bar, and lower arms. Leave the stock uppers until you can afford a torque arm. I had the BBK specific rate springs on my car for a while. The ride sucked ass.

 

[elite130]

What are the spring rates front and back for the BBK's?
I had the bullitt springs (600lbs. front and 250lbs. rear) and they weren't stiff enough for me. So I ended up spending more money by doing it right, which meant MM stuff.

I'd recommend at least a spring with over 700lbs. front and 270lbs. rear with bilstein dampers.

The spring rates are 660lbs front and 260lbs rear. I think they should work well with the Bilsteins. If I like them, all the better. $50 for brand new BBK springs and liking them is better than shelling out $250. BBK makes quality springs, I have heard nothing bad about them. The $200 that I saved is going to 4.10's!

 

[hognutz]

put the $200 towards the panhard rod. then you will have pretty good rear setup.

as far as bbk making quality it depends on what circles you run in for an opinion that. I don't think you will find many race teams running BBK springs. Companies like griggs and MM make cars that truely handle. I don't see them pushing BBK springs. If they were that good they would.

that being said I think you car will handle better with the BBK springs and a panhard rod than just h&r springs.

 

[elite130]

as far as bbk making quality it depends on what circles you run in for an opinion that. I don't think you will find many race teams running BBK springs. Companies like griggs and MM make cars that truely handle. I don't see them pushing BBK springs. If they were that good they would./QUOTE]

You've got a good point. I'll be checking into that panhard bar.

 

[QU!CK]

See my first post.....

Ah yes, must've missed that when I was reading.


great minds....


-J

 

[mity2]

Who makes panhead bar on our car without anentire new rear set up?

 

[hognutz]

you can run the MM panhard bar without any other mods. Not sure on the giggs but I am sure it says on thier website.


panhard bar just locates the rear axle. are you thinking of torque arm maybe? you have to have a panhard bar to run a torque arm. Also differnt spring rates.