leaky rear axle seal

[Bonestock2k]

While replacing the brakes on my daughters 95 mustang noticed the right rear axle was leaking oil; not a lot but should be replaced. I've never done one on a disk brake rear so looking for tips. I assume have to start by removing diff cover and removing c clips and then axle - do I have to visit machine shop for bearing removal? It's a 3.8 V6 engine.

 

[red95gtconvert]

You will need a slide hammer with a bearing puller attachment, you can rent it at Autozone. I would rent the bearing/seal driver too. I would use C-clamps to keep the rear calipers compressed while you are working on the car or you will be cussing up a storm when you go to put everything back together. It requires a special tool to compress the rear calipers and takes massive strength to do it. Use black silcone on the cover and red loctite on the crosspin retaining bolt, be carefull when unbolting and bolting it back on because if it breaks you will have big problems. I would get a hand pump to refill the differential it will make your life alot easier. It is not that bad of a job but allow yourself a few hours to git-r-done.

 

[tjh566]

as for compressing the rear calipers its not that bad, we did it with a pair of needle nose plyers, wasnt that bad.

 

[Bonestock2k]

Thanks for the info - good stuff - sounds like piece of cake - I ran in to what you said about the difficulty compressing the calipers when I was doing the brakes. I thought at first they might be frozen up - took 12" crescent on the c-clamp to get-r-done.

 

[The Green GT]

I was changing my gears this weekend and when I got to the brakes I was like "Oh **** I dont have the tool to wind them in:

Then I saw that even though they ahd been off for 2 days they still slid right on. But they were unhooked from the car.

 

[red95gtconvert]

Thanks for the info - good stuff - sounds like piece of cake - I ran in to what you said about the difficulty compressing the calipers when I was doing the brakes. I thought at first they might be frozen up - took 12" crescent on the c-clamp to get-r-done.

You have to turn the piston clockwise to compress it, if you use a c-clamp to compress them you will mess them up. The tool looks like a cube with protrusions on all of the corners and it takes a little modification with a file to make it work. I wish mine were as easy to compress as the guy that replied earlier in the thread, for me it was the worst part of doing my gear swap.

 

[Bonestock2k]

Uh-Oh, now I'm wondering if I screwed up her calipers when I compressed them. The brakes appeared to work fine when I was finished - do you think I should replace the calipers when I go back to replace the axle seal?

 

[Bosko5.0]

an easy way to see if you messed up the caliper put the rearend on 2 jackstands rotate tires, brake rotate tire brake then take for a test drive around the block brake a couple times take back home if your rotor is hot as heck and it smell like its burning then your caliper is locked up and needs replacing. ASAP

 

[Bonestock2k]

Thanks for all the help guys - I think I dodged a bullet as the calipers appear to be OK - will continue to monitor them to be sure.

 

[go-stang5.0]

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Brake-...3iKaNePch4Re34Pa38Ta38Kch90?sc=9&category=113

Rent this tool from autozone and it will turn the piston and compress like a c-clamp at the same time. I used it on my rears and it was a snap. No Fussin or cussin...

 

[Bonestock2k]

Thanks - I will do that next time - I've also got to take a look at the front brakes. Do the front calipers retract the same way or is it just the rears?

 

[The Green GT]

Thanks - I will do that next time - I've also got to take a look at the front brakes. Do the front calipers retract the same way or is it just the rears?

Just use a c-clamp on the fronts.