The ground bolt and “cylindrical thing” look to me like someone added them. I don’t think Ford used that type of “nut”.
It’s always interesting to try to figure out what prior owners tried and how they handled it.
Bill
The ground bolt and “cylindrical thing” look to me like someone added them. I don’t think Ford used that type of “nut”.I replaced the starter cable and mounted the brackets in the correct spots, as my old one was dangling.
Speaking of dangling, that’s basically what the wiring harness for my exhaust o2 sensors are doing. Is there a correct way to restrain them?
To remove the negative battery cable, I had to remove the drivers side fender liner and the windshield washer tank to get to the other side of this bolt:
Which looked like this:
That cylindrical thing is loose, I think it was tack welded at some point but I had to use some pliers to keep it from spinning.
After freeing the cables, I found this:
I have no idea what all these wires are for, or why they all converge into one wire. They all go into the fender and back into the interior, so my guess is they’re a ground for some interior electronics? I don’t think they’re supposed to look like that.
The broken terminal goes to a black wire that seems to follow the cluster back into the interior. I’ll have to get a new terminal connector for it. I’ll look some more in my books to see if I can figure out what this is all supposed to look like.
Anyway, that’s my update for this weekend. Car still doesn’t work, but I did get the starter and cable installed so that’s good, I guess.
Didn’t the 85’s have the battery on the right?
I just assumed it was tac welded, it does look like a rivet now that you mention it. It spins but doesn’t come out, so I think it was a rivet that came just a bit loose at the sheet metal.It looks kinda like a "Riv-Nut" but I didn't mention it because he said it looked like it was tac-welded. He also said it spun. It would have to be an [old] one. I have not known recent styles to spin. The sheet metal generally tears away first.
I was thinking it could be the ecu ground as well, because the new battery cable has a connector for that, but the old one doesn’t. I’ll have to crawl under the dash to see where that bundle goes to make sure.If the car is injected whether SFI or CFI (sorry did not go back through all 27 pages) then they typically have the ECU ground right behind the battery. My 83 T-Bird was CFI and it was behind the battery on the right side and my Coupe is behind the battery on the left side. Almost looks like the stock hole that the self tapping screw wallowed our and someone used a rivet nut of some sort to make it a better connection which appears to have failed as well.
So the factory battery ground on the timing cover won’t work with the alternator? Or is that just a different way of doing it?You want the Big 3. Battery ground to chassis (front frame rail is best) and chassis (usually the same spot) to the engine block. Third one is Alternator to Battery and you will need a fuse on this one. I also replaced the battery to the inner fender starter solenoid.
All of this was 4 ga and crimped copper logs with heat shrink. Clean the surface for your ground and use some kind of antioxidant on the connections. I got mine at an electrical supply house.
Thanks! I didn’t think I’d like the silver, but it’s definitely grown on me. It’s the original color, but not the original coat. The guy I bought it from painted it with a more modern clear coat.Had to go back to page 1 to see what this car was. Silver 86 GTbest looking Fox IMO.
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