The B/R cap on your vacuum tree looks cracked and exposing the port. Or is it fine? If not definitely replace that.
The B/R cap on your vacuum tree looks cracked and exposing the port. Or is it fine? If not definitely replace that.Unfortunately there’s been little change even with the spout disconnected. Car is still idling at 1000 warmed up, although on startup it idles at 850-900, which I think is about where I want it.
Here’s a picture of my engine bay and egr spacer plus my vacuum tree.
Later today I’m going to check my base timing. I’m assuming advanced timing would raise the idle speed?
@Noobz347 can you see the port exposed on the B/R port on the vacuum tree? It’s tough to make out when zooming in on the photo on my phone
This is why I’m always glad we can post pictures, I didn’t notice that even when looking at it in person.Definitely cracked
I’ll see if I can find some rubber caps at oreilleys if they’re open today, are there any alternatives to rubber caps that are better?On a side note:
[All] of those rubber caps suck balls. They don't last. I've never found a brand that is the exception.
I keep replacements in bulk or have made my own plugs from capped off fuel line.
This is why I’m always glad we can post pictures, I didn’t notice that even when looking at it in person.
I’ll see if I can find some rubber caps at oreilleys if they’re open today, are there any alternatives to rubber caps that are better?
When you unplug these two you should be able to get idle down to 650 or less. It will run like a bag ofWhen I unplugged the IAC and spout, it dropped to around 850.
This is absolutely the wrong way to do the idle reset. Try it again. IAC and SPOUT unplugged. Turn the adjustment screw in enough to get the car running and then back it off until it will barely idle (lower the better). Then with the IAC and SPOUT plugged in it should idle better.I put the old TB back on with the throttle adjustment screw backed all the way out, IAC and SPOUT plugged in, and the car wouldn’t idle.
I actually wasn’t trying to reset the idle, this was merely a diagnostic test. I was trying to see if the car would have enough air from the factory TB to run even with it closed to rule out any leaks further downstream. And it didn’t, even with the IAC and SPOUT connected trying to keep the car running.This is absolutely the wrong way to do the idle reset. Try it again. IAC and SPOUT unplugged. Turn the adjustment screw in enough to get the car running and then back it off until it will barely idle (lower the better). Then with the IAC and SPOUT plugged in it should idle better.
On the BBK TB, does the throttle blade fully close?
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