LMAF USING PRO-M SENSOR
- Thread starter CONCRETEWARFARE
- Start date
<["IF"]> the inside diameter of the housings are identical and the sensor elements are the same then you might get away with it.
However (comma), the electronics from sensor to sensor are tuned to the housings that they belong with. If the above is true, you might get away with it with only a slight variance.
Were it me, I'd not attempt the swap unless I had some way of reading the air/fuel ratio as I went down the road. Tuning by the sounds of detonation would not be my first choice. hehe
However (comma), the electronics from sensor to sensor are tuned to the housings that they belong with. If the above is true, you might get away with it with only a slight variance.
Were it me, I'd not attempt the swap unless I had some way of reading the air/fuel ratio as I went down the road. Tuning by the sounds of detonation would not be my first choice. hehe
I was thinking the same thing that if there both the same size then it should work. I just really dont like the shorty meter and afm powerpipe, I want an 80mm that fits with the stock airbox. What do you think of using the housings from other fords like the lincoln I think it is that is 80mm also.
Again... it will mostly depend on how the sensors were designed and the shape of the meter housing you plan to use.
When they put these things together, they put them on a flow machine and measure the voltages coming back out of the electronics. The shape of the meter housing and the shape of the sensor housing all play a part in how the air flows over the actual sensor element. What I'm trying to say is that the inside diamter of the housing is but ONE factor of several that go into making up a specific transfer function for completed mass air assembly.
The close that the sensors and housings are to one another, the less the variance will be between the two.
Having said that, I'm sure that you're aware of these meters like C&L that have you toss electronics in from various other meters. I'm sure that you've also heard success stories as well as those of failure... That's because these sensors were never tuned for these housings and it's pot-luck as to whether it functions well enough to cause the EEC to do the "right" thing. The best they could do was try and "predict" the outcome of matching X sensor with their machined housing.
You may get lucky but just remember... if it's TOO FAR one way or the other, then engine damage is a possibility.
When they put these things together, they put them on a flow machine and measure the voltages coming back out of the electronics. The shape of the meter housing and the shape of the sensor housing all play a part in how the air flows over the actual sensor element. What I'm trying to say is that the inside diamter of the housing is but ONE factor of several that go into making up a specific transfer function for completed mass air assembly.
The close that the sensors and housings are to one another, the less the variance will be between the two.
Having said that, I'm sure that you're aware of these meters like C&L that have you toss electronics in from various other meters. I'm sure that you've also heard success stories as well as those of failure... That's because these sensors were never tuned for these housings and it's pot-luck as to whether it functions well enough to cause the EEC to do the "right" thing. The best they could do was try and "predict" the outcome of matching X sensor with their machined housing.
You may get lucky but just remember... if it's TOO FAR one way or the other, then engine damage is a possibility.
Your combo is normally aspirated. The 75mm meter will be fine with your 75mm TB.
I don't think however, that tossing a "calibrated meter" into your combo is going to cure whatever tuning woes you might be trying to cure (if that's what you're trying to accomplish).
Meters calibrated for X sized injectors will usually get you in the ballpark but are not the end-all. They can compensate for the overall injector size but not for quickly the larger injectors start, stop, ramp up, or ramp down, on the fuel. The injector break points also cannot be made up for by "fooling" the EEC in this way. Some fine tuning is usually required (tuning) in order to get things right. Some of this can be made up for by varying the fuel pressure until it's as close as you can get it.
Again though... it's all a moot point if you have no reference to the Air Fuel Ratio to go by. Using your nose to determine AFR just doesn't work well. hehe
I don't think however, that tossing a "calibrated meter" into your combo is going to cure whatever tuning woes you might be trying to cure (if that's what you're trying to accomplish).
Meters calibrated for X sized injectors will usually get you in the ballpark but are not the end-all. They can compensate for the overall injector size but not for quickly the larger injectors start, stop, ramp up, or ramp down, on the fuel. The injector break points also cannot be made up for by "fooling" the EEC in this way. Some fine tuning is usually required (tuning) in order to get things right. Some of this can be made up for by varying the fuel pressure until it's as close as you can get it.
Again though... it's all a moot point if you have no reference to the Air Fuel Ratio to go by. Using your nose to determine AFR just doesn't work well. hehe
I'm with ya on that one. I have a 4" power pipe run into my Kenne Bell and I want to get rid of it as well. I'd MUCH rather have the meter inside the engine bay pulling cold air out of the fenderwell.
There's just too much air turbulance across the meter and it makes everything a huge PITA to get to, to make adjustments.
There's just too much air turbulance across the meter and it makes everything a huge PITA to get to, to make adjustments.
Even though im n/a I think thats part of my problem. The car runs great wideopen but cold starts I think that even though the meter is on the end that because of the bends the air is messed up going in to the engine. I have also been told this by somone who is very popular on here and has a reputation for building fast stangs so im willing to try it out.
I don't think it lends to your cold start problem because the meter is ignored after the initial start.
Turbulance over the meter would cause symptoms more like a mild bucking or surging when you're just cruising down the road and leveled off, on the gas pedal (feathered, so to speak).
I had a choppy cruise on my combo as well. I had to put an air shield up infront of the meter.
I'm looking for inventive ways to get my meter back into the engine bay as well.
Turbulance over the meter would cause symptoms more like a mild bucking or surging when you're just cruising down the road and leveled off, on the gas pedal (feathered, so to speak).
I had a choppy cruise on my combo as well. I had to put an air shield up infront of the meter.
I'm looking for inventive ways to get my meter back into the engine bay as well.
The Pro-M sensor won't work in the LMAF because of how Pr0-M calibrates its meters.
The output scaling is changed in the sensor itself... There is no way of pridicting how the modified sensor will work in the LMAF housing...
Running the free 75mm Pro bullet with the 75 TB is a good solution.
Do you know anybody who can burn you a custom Moates chip (nudge, nudge, wink, wink...)???
The problems you are describing may be difficult to eliminate using calibrated MAF meters...
I thought you were using a tweecer???
jason
The output scaling is changed in the sensor itself... There is no way of pridicting how the modified sensor will work in the LMAF housing...
Running the free 75mm Pro bullet with the 75 TB is a good solution.
Do you know anybody who can burn you a custom Moates chip (nudge, nudge, wink, wink...)???
The problems you are describing may be difficult to eliminate using calibrated MAF meters...
I thought you were using a tweecer???
jason
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