lockup and non-lockup convertor drivability

[BlackVert]

from a "driving the car on the street" perspective, what are the differences between a lockup and a non-lockup convertor?

mine is a 100% street driven car (the stang in my sig), daily driver type, that i just cruise in 99% of the time. it has been on the road for about a week now. the car currently has a locking convertor with a low (2700 or so) stall.

yes, i know ... the stall is lower than would be recommended for my engine ... but i was on a budget and this convertor was part of the package deal and only cost $150. i am starting the research for my replacement convertor.

i am not sure i like way it drives, and am trying to understand the cause and my options for changing the behavior

in 3rd and 4th gear, the convertor locks, and while accelerating, it feels great.

but when i am cruising at part throttle in 3rd or 4th gear, i would like it to sort of disconnect from the engine when i let off the throttle, so that the car just coasts, almost as though i had put it in neutral.

instead, it feels like it is directly connected to the engine (like a manual transmission would be), so taking my foot off the throttle results in the engine slowing the car down. i suspect this is a "feature" of the locking nature of the convertor.

would a non-locking convertor give me the "disconnected while coasting" feel i am looking for?

 

[earleys94gt]

While cruising at highway speeds, the third gear and overdrive clutches lock to reduce slippage and improve efficiency. This adds to fuel mileage, but cuts down on torque multiplication. It can also lead to some premature breakage if the car has a hard shifting tranny and high horsepower.

Going to a non-lock up convertor would be good for a drag car, but on a street car and lock-up with a stronger two-piece input shaft would be better for not only a street car, but fuel economy(not like it matters with a 410c.i. )

Art Carr and Precision Industries, as well as others, should have the parts you need. Good luck.