Are you going to install the heads "as-is" or are you going to have your Comps set up in them before install? I saw on a profile page or your web page that your cam install went sour. Was it piston to valve clearance problems or just noisy valvetrain?
However you are going about it, let me know how the headswap goes. I've been thinking about a p/p job this winter but I'm not sure that I want to tackle the head removal/install myself.
Yeah Nick the Comp 270 gave me lots of ticking. Nothing indentifable as PTV though. I scoped the valves and nothing was bent or shinny. But after the cam install the valve train was way to noisy. I could have continued to run the 270 cams, I loved the sound and power was good. But I felt the increased valve train could become a relability problem. Obivously I will be able to report exactly what the tickiing cause was after the old heads are pulled this week and I can take them apart. I believe the ticking was nothing more than a lifter that has failed or never really pumped back up after the cam install.
My plans are to pull the old(2002 heads with only 22K on them) and replace them with the new 04 heads. I plan to keep the 270s and 2002 heads and save them as my first pieces for a new engine down the road. The performance shop that I use recommended instead of continued swapping parts with the heads/cams etc. To start collecting pieces and build up from there. He offered to house the engine as I collect the necessary parts. I'll have the heads and cam, of course the heads will have to checked out, and have the cams installed and for sure a full set of lifters. Then pick up a new forged short block at some point and build up from there.
Believe it or not the OEM 04 heads were very reasonalbe only set me back $800....with no core charge. I'll have about $200 in bolts and gaskets for the swap as well. Besides it will give me an excuse to put my aluminum valve covers on.
Also, when you do your new engine, you could have the heads/cams set up at a machine shop and they can get all of the clearances checked out, etc. That would eliminate about 90% of the chances for it to tick again.
Also, when you do your new engine, you could have the heads/cams set up at a machine shop and they can get all of the clearances checked out, etc. That would eliminate about 90% of the chances for it to tick again.