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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Lookin for a good motor combo...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marc_G
  • Start date Start date Jul 1, 2005
M

Marc_G

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  • Jul 1, 2005
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Hey everyone, this is my first post, so I hope its a good one!
I have a 95 Mustang GT auto, and am in the process of building a motor. I want something streetable for the weekends, but something that will turn heads at the track (1/4 mile). It is not a daily driver, just a weekend car. It currently has the stock 5.0 motor, 3.73 gears, cai, shift kit, and the vortech s-trim kit which includes fuel pump, fmu, etc... I have only seen around 300hp on the dyno, and that was when I blew a head gasket and I havent been back since. SO I am looking for around 500-600 rwhp on pump gas (91). If I have to use higher octane thats cool too, but if anyone has a motor combo that would make this kind of power please post any info. Also, I would like to keep the stock block, but if not I am open to anything, Thanks!


Marc G
 

94GTLaserRC

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  • Jul 1, 2005
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<marquee>WELCOME TO STANGNET!!!!</marquee>

Man, you ARE gonna need help from some guys on here...youre asking for "stock block" but yet 500-600 RWHP..??

Im guessing youre gonna need some type of turbo setup with the stock block, but I havent seen any on our boards making 500-600 with a stock block. Obviously, a power adder with a larger block will do the trick, but it's gonna take a good "supporting cast" of fuel system and tranny upgrades.

I know some other guys will chime in on this one.


RC
 

Killercanary

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#3
  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #3
If you truely want 500-600rwhp there are a few MUST HAVES you need to concider first:
-a completely new fuel system from pump, to lines, to rails, and even a sumped tank will be a minimum. This will set you back ~$1500
-you will need to have a dart/world/R302 block with forged internals as the stock setup will NOT withstand power levels that high. You can try and bandaid the block with main and lifter valley girdles but its not a chance worht taking when you will have to have all forged internals racing around in that stock block... if it goes count on it taking out a few of those parts as well.
-the transmission and converter will need to be replaced with MUCH stronger units
-the rear end will need a lot of beefing to withstand the added power, concider welded axle tubes/brace axle tubes, a GOOD differential such as a locker or spool if you can stand to drive with it on the street, and 33 spline axles would all be a MUST HAVE.
-you will more than likely need some sort of stand alone fuel management or low impedance injector drive because the normal run of the mill 42's will not support 600 to the wheels safely and to the best of my knowledge the only high impedance injectors available are a bosch 50lb/hr set, and even then you'll be near the limits



BTW- welcome to stangnet!
 

SQUEEZE&STROKE

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  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #4
Killer Canary Isnt Completely Correct...you Could Get Away With The Stock Tranny And Rearend...if You Want To End Up In The Wall 6 Or 5 Times...j/k He Is Completely Right!!!!! That Is Alot Of Hp To Be Playing With. My 331 With A 200 Horse Wet Unit Probably Made Close To 500 Hp And Guess What...its Blown Up And The Car Is Wrecked. Make Sure To Take The Proper Precautions When Building This!
 

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Mar 30, 2005
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Jul 1, 2005
#5
  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #5
Killercanary said:
You can try and bandaid the block with main and lifter valley girdles
Click to expand...


Love the terminology. I've seen too many guys do this..... and still end up needing a new block, lol.
 
M

Marc_G

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Jul 1, 2005
#6
  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #6
Killercanary said:
If you truely want 500-600rwhp there are a few MUST HAVES you need to concider first:
-a completely new fuel system from pump, to lines, to rails, and even a sumped tank will be a minimum. This will set you back ~$1500
-you will need to have a dart/world/R302 block with forged internals as the stock setup will NOT withstand power levels that high. You can try and bandaid the block with main and lifter valley girdles but its not a chance worht taking when you will have to have all forged internals racing around in that stock block... if it goes count on it taking out a few of those parts as well.
-the transmission and converter will need to be replaced with MUCH stronger units
-the rear end will need a lot of beefing to withstand the added power, concider welded axle tubes/brace axle tubes, a GOOD differential such as a locker or spool if you can stand to drive with it on the street, and 33 spline axles would all be a MUST HAVE.
-you will more than likely need some sort of stand alone fuel management or low impedance injector drive because the normal run of the mill 42's will not support 600 to the wheels safely and to the best of my knowledge the only high impedance injectors available are a bosch 50lb/hr set, and even then you'll be near the limits



BTW- welcome to stangnet!
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for all that great info... I already am under construction of the fuel system, so I understand that, but I remember reading in one of the mustang magazines that the stock 5.0 block could handle 600hp (not forever or as good as a different block would). But as for the drivetrain, wouldnt the stock auto be able to handle it with the right converter and shift kit? And for the rearend I was going to go with the 31 spline from FRPP...
But I dont want to scrap the blower, so if there anyway to keep the s-trim, up the boost, build up the internals and hit a high hp mark?

Marc G
 

Rootus

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#7
  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #7
SeventyMach1 said:
Love the terminology. I've seen too many guys do this..... and still end up needing a new block, lol.
Click to expand...
Hehe... more than once I've heard experienced engine builders suggest that the only real benefit to a girdle was to hold the pieces together after the block splits .

And in an effort to make myself entirely unwelcome in the 94/95 forum , I have to point out that if you want 600 horsepower, you can do it a lot more economically in the long run by starting with an 03/04 Cobra.

Dave
 

MattZ281LE

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#8
  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #8
You will need lots n lots of money.

I will be lucky to break low 500's ... But the cost was tremendous.
600 RWHP is a lofty goal.
Roughly my parts costs. Not including all the parts I reused.

I watched a 95 347 vortech Cobra dyno today. Best pull was 442 @ 12psi. Had AFR 165's

I was able to sell alot of my old parts and recovered close to 3k for my old HCI setup.

Fuel System 2000.00 ( Pumps, Rails, Tank, Lines, Reg, 60# Inj)
Motor 6500.00 (Stroker, Sportsman blocked)
Headers 450.00 (ceramic long tubes)
Exhaust 550.00 (mid Pipe, Catback)
Misc. 1000.00 (TB, MAF, Extra Pullies, etc, etc.)
Drivetrain 4000.00 (Diff, Axles,Bell, Trans, Clutch, Billet Flywheel)
Blower 3700.00
Cooling system 600.00 (Fluidyne, Waterpump, High quality hoses)
Tuning ???

I would have been 7k ahead with an 03-04 Cobra with the basics (headers, chip, pullies and induction)

Good luck...be prepared to spend spend spend.
 

HoofnIt

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#9
  • Jul 1, 2005
  • #9
And in an effort to make myself entirely unwelcome in the 94/95 forum , I have to point out that if you want 600 horsepower, you can do it a lot more economically in the long run by starting with an 03/04 Cobra.
Click to expand...

Who can argue with that?
 
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