Looking at the Tork Tech Kit

[stangJunkie04]

I have been reading what few posts on here and the internet say about the tork tech intercooled s/c kit Intercooled Supercharger Tuner Kit for the '99-04 Mustang GT - Click for more info. and I am wondering if anyone has installed the upgraded tvs1900 kit on there 2v. I am thinking this might be a good bang for the buck kit since I already have a forged shortblock, heads, cams, full exhaust and all the fuel upgrades and 00 cobra r hood which is what torktech states I need to upgrade to the tvs1900. My goal is to make a solid 600rwhp without spraying my intercooler with nitrous or running race gas which is what I have to do with my curent setup to reach 587rwhp, and I really would like to pick up some low end TQ. If anyone has any first hand experience or info on the kit I would love to hear it.

 

[Green&GoldGT]

What is your compression ratio? and what kind of cams?

I think it would be cheaper for you to buy a T-trim. IMO centrifugal blowers make for better times at the track.

 

[stangJunkie04]

What is your compression ratio? and what kind of cams?

I think it would be cheaper for you to buy a T-trim. IMO centrifugal blowers make for better times at the track.

9.5 to 1
MPH/COMP blower cams
I have been looking into the t-trim upgrade as a option aswell.

 

[Green&GoldGT]

With that compression ratio, stay with vortech and get a T-trim. A roots/twin screw is more for compression ratios in the high 8s. Or if you're looking to drop another couple of g's on another blower setup, why not go turbo, or build up your drivetrain if you have'nt.

 

[bhuff30]

That's a good point on compression. It may be very difficult to control detonation with big boost in the low-mid range at your compression ratio. If you were going to run E85 or race gas, then it'd be much more suitable. While you could run high boost in the low to mid range, to make it work the timing would have to be backed off significantly.

The biggest thing you are fighting is your compression ratio. It isn't friendly for high boost on pump gas without some sort of additional cooling or octane.

Have you tried meth? That's a popular drug of choice and VERY effective. (Methanol injection, not what you were thinking of).

 

[Gearbanger 101]

As much as I like the Tork Tech kits, at this point it would be more cost effective for you to upgrade to the T-Trim, as others have stated. The Tork Tech will certainly give you the low end torque that you're lacking with the centrifugal, but that's an awful lot of money to spend doing a complete blower swap just to pick up some torque at the bottom end.

Do it if you want to experience the characteristics of a positive displacement blower for the street and as a daily driver, but if it’s just to see 600rwhp more easily, then stick with the T-Trim upgrade. Theres no sense starting over when you’ve only got to take a few steps further with the system you have to accomplish your goal.

As far as compression goes....I wouldn't be too concerned. The big boost levels up top are going to require as much octane as you're able to throw at it no matter which system you go with. Don't let anyone lead you to believe that just because the T-Trim hits softer on the bottom end, that it means you'll be alright with just pump in the tank when the pressure is on. And depending on the cam profiles you’ve selected, you may be bleeding off a little compression with overlap anyway.

The water/meth injection idea is probably your best bet for knocking the heat down and increasing your fuel's octane at this point. That being said with the addition of it, you may be able to push your current S-Trim into those power levels, but you're certainly running it way out of its efficiency range and will probably shorten the life of your blower as a result.

 

[stangJunkie04]

As much as I like the Tork Tech kits, at this point it would be more cost effective for you to upgrade to the T-Trim, as others have stated. The Tork Tech will certainly give you the low end torque that you're lacking with the centrifugal, but that's an awful lot of money to spend doing a complete blower swap just to pick up some torque at the bottom end.

Do it if you want to experience the characteristics of a positive displacement blower for the street and as a daily driver, but if it’s just to see 600rwhp more easily, then stick with the T-Trim upgrade. Theres no sense starting over when you’ve only got to take a few steps further with the system you have to accomplish your goal.

As far as compression goes....I wouldn't be too concerned. The big boost levels up top are going to require as much octane as you're able to throw at it no matter which system you go with. Don't let anyone lead you to believe that just because the T-Trim hits softer on the bottom end, that it means you'll be alright with just pump in the tank when the pressure is on. And depending on the cam profiles you’ve selected, you may be bleeding off a little compression with overlap anyway.

The water/meth injection idea is probably your best bet for knocking the heat down and increasing your fuel's octane at this point. That being said with the addition of it, you may be able to push your current S-Trim into those power levels, but you're certainly running it way out of its efficiency range and will probably shorten the life of your blower as a result.

I have been thinking about meth injection but I have heard some horror stories. The new kits however seem to have some uniques safety features.

 

[bhuff30]

Don't let the horror stories scare you. Just like nitrous, if you set it up right, it'll be very safe and effective. The biggest concern is letting the methanol/water run dry, and a good kit will have a safety warning of some sort when you start to run low. There is a guy at work with meth injection on his Evo, and he's safely running 25psi on pump gas without backing off the timing. I would have some good timeslips to share with you, but he can't drive.

Adding methanol has 2 main advantages:
1. It has a cooling effect because it evaporates very easily. This cools the air charge, reducing detonation.
2. It has a very high octane rating of around 116. That will increase the overall octane in your cylinder, allowing for more boost/timing.

You have to remember though, that methanol is a fuel. If you add meth, the air-fuel ratio will go richer. The more methanol you run, the more boost and timing you can add. This may require you to trim out some fuel to keep the AFs from being overly rich.

The only downside of meth, is refilling the tank. If it goes dry, you could cause engine damage. As said, most good kits will have a warning or indicator if you are starting to run out. It's so much cheap/easier to deal with than nitrous though. With nitrous, you pay 4$ per lb and have to hope you have the bottle, it's at the correct temperature and open if you want to race. With meth, it's there all the time, any time and you can refill it with fluid cheap as windsheild washer fluid! (though buying methanol and water may be a better idea )

 

[stangJunkie04]

Don't let the horror stories scare you. Just like nitrous, if you set it up right, it'll be very safe and effective. The biggest concern is letting the methanol/water run dry, and a good kit will have a safety warning of some sort when you start to run low. There is a guy at work with meth injection on his Evo, and he's safely running 25psi on pump gas without backing off the timing. I would have some good timeslips to share with you, but he can't drive.

Adding methanol has 2 main advantages:
1. It has a cooling effect because it evaporates very easily. This cools the air charge, reducing detonation.
2. It has a very high octane rating of around 116. That will increase the overall octane in your cylinder, allowing for more boost/timing.

You have to remember though, that methanol is a fuel. If you add meth, the air-fuel ratio will go richer. The more methanol you run, the more boost and timing you can add. This may require you to trim out some fuel to keep the AFs from being overly rich.

The only downside of meth, is refilling the tank. If it goes dry, you could cause engine damage. As said, most good kits will have a warning or indicator if you are starting to run out. It's so much cheap/easier to deal with than nitrous though. With nitrous, you pay 4$ per lb and have to hope you have the bottle, it's at the correct temperature and open if you want to race. With meth, it's there all the time, any time and you can refill it with fluid cheap as windsheild washer fluid! (though buying methanol and water may be a better idea )

Hmmmm how would it work in conjunction with my nitrous intercooler spray kit or would I have to get rid of that?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Hmmmm how would it work in conjunction with my nitrous intercooler spray kit or would I have to get rid of that?

Not so sure you'd need it. I'm guessing that set up sprays raw nitrous across the fins of the intercooler itself in order to drop blower discharge temps? I've always found this a really inefficient way of doing it.

Why you wouldn't just spray it directly into the inlet is beyond me. You'd then get the benefit of cooling the air charge, with the added positives of nitrous oxide. Not to mention if in fact you're compression is a little higher than normal, it's only going to work for you with the introduction of nitrous oxide into the mix.

 

[bhuff30]

Heck yeah! I completely agree with you. Spraying nitrous across the intercooler is a waste of perfectly good nitrous. Forced induction sees big gains on nitrous. I gained 7 tenths and 5mph on a 45 shot. Numbers for 85 shot coming late november or early march.

Not so sure you'd need it. I'm guessing that set up sprays raw nitrous across the fins of the intercooler itself in order to drop blower discharge temps? I've always found this a really inefficient way of doing it.

Why you wouldn't just spray it directly into the inlet is beyond me. You'd then get the benefit of cooling the air charge, with the added positives of nitrous oxide. Not to mention if in fact you're compression is a little higher than normal, it's only going to work for you with the introduction of nitrous oxide into the mix.

 

[stangJunkie04]

Heck yeah! I completely agree with you. Spraying nitrous across the intercooler is a waste of perfectly good nitrous. Forced induction sees big gains on nitrous. I gained 7 tenths and 5mph on a 45 shot. Numbers for 85 shot coming late november or early march.

Well I have been doing some research and it looks like the snow performance kit is the one most people are going with. My question is there are some items that are sold seperately for the kit that it looks like ares ome key safety features. First being the 2.5 gal tank upgrade, then the level light assembly and finaly the flow gauge to make sure the kit is doing its job. It looks like it will be a little pricey but if I sell the nitrous intercooler spray kit I should be able to make some of my money back.