looking for a 10.5" clutch set with a diaphram pressure plate for a 69 small block.

[YesDear]

I have a 67 mustang fastback with a 69 351 windsor. The engine has the basic mods, ported heads, headers, edelbrock intake and carb, msd ignition, etc. I am using a tremmec 3550 5 speed. Instead of using the transmission to bellhousing spacer plate to make up for the extra lenght in the input shaft of the tremmec, I had the input shaft shortened. When the engine was built, I opted for the 10.5" clutch instead of the 11" for the extra space for headers and steering mods. I had a Hays 12535 flywheel ballanced with the engine. I have replaced all the plastic bushings in the clutch linkages with spherical ball joints.

This car is an extreamly nice daily driver street car with occasional trips to the track. I am looking for a clutch set with 40 to 50% more holding power than stock with the lightest pedal pressure possible. Several years ago I used a centerforce 10" (I think it was the gold, slightly better than stock) that had a nice pedal, and streetability, but, just didn't hold at the track. Since then I have been using a long style pressure plate that holds, but I'm developing a bionic left leg.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a good manufacturer/combination, preferably 10.5"?

 

[D.Hearne]

CenterForce Dual Friction. Nuff said.

 

[D.Hearne]

Why'd you shorten the input ? I'd been easier to use the 1" spacer.

 

[jcode68]

You should consider switching to a hydraulic clutch and give your leg a rest. Multiple benefits are 1)easy on the leg regardless of how heavy a clutch you put in and 2)you gain the more clearance than using any other type of mechanical linkage. Many guys on this forum (including myself) have the JMC unit. Costs about $385 and available from multiple suppliers like John's Mustangs or Mustang Depot of LV.

 

[D.Hearne]

The CenterForce Dual friction has less pedal effort than the stock Heavy duty unit. Pedal effort is about what the V6 clutch was in my Ranger. Down side to a hydraulic setup is when they leak. If you go this route, use an external slave.

 

[dennis112]

The CenterForce Dual friction has less pedal effort than the stock Heavy duty unit. Pedal effort is about what the V6 clutch was in my Ranger. Down side to a hydraulic setup is when they leak. If you go this route, use an external slave.

As D. Hearne mentions, the Dual Friction has very little peddle effort. As a matter of fact, Centerforce recommends removing the under dash return spring as it tends to keep the clutch pedal from returning to the upward position. You can't get any less effort than that.

You really can't go wrong with the Dual Friction. From experience, I know that they grab nicely.

 

[mdjay]

My DF is sweet! I've never had a better clutch...

 

[Bullitt]

another vote for the DF.

i removed the underdash spring as well and would recommend this to anyone.

 

[Steve69]

I just installed a 10" ceterforce II. The clutch works great. What is
this about unhooking the spring that goes from the equalizer bar to the
the Firewall? I thought that spring helped keep the clutch pedal up?
Will this give me a easier pedal? To tell you truth I couldn't tell much
difference between my long clutch pedal pressure and my new centerfoce
II.

Thanks

 

[Bullitt]

the spring we're talking about is up under the dash. you have to keep the firewall to equalizer bar spring.

 

[Steve69]

How hard is it to remove the spring? I took a look at it and I couldn't tell
what was the best way to remove it.

 

[Bullitt]

it's not easy... but taking it off is a heck of a lot easier than putting one in.

take the driver's seat out, it'll make it easier to get to...