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Loss of Power/Backfiring

  • Thread starter Thread starter FiveOhFoxBody
  • Start date Start date Jul 18, 2018
  • Tags Tags
    alternator backfire power loss smog pump
F

FiveOhFoxBody

Member
Mar 19, 2018
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Jul 18, 2018
#1
  • Jul 18, 2018
  • #1
Ok, so this is kind of a long story so let me first start off with the model. It's an 89 Mustang GT (5.0). About a week ago I heard a knocking sound coming from the engine bay, so I took a look and thought the sound was coming from the alternator pulley. I took the alternator to O'reiley's and they told me the alternator was on it's way out. so I replaced the alternator. When I turned the car on the sound was still there, upon closer inspection I found that the sound was actually coming from the smog pump. I decided I was going to bypass the smog pump because I was gonna save some money on a new pump and even gain a tiny bit of HP from the freed up pulley. I took it to the mechanic and he charged me 80$ to bypass it. I thought he would completely remove the pump and plug all the holes that lead from the pump, but all he did was buy a smaller drive belt and installed it without going around the pump. I'm not actually sure if he did anything other than that, he might of but I'm pretty sure that's all he did. Anyway, the sound was gone after that and all was well. A few days later I'm driving down the road and I begin to smell burning wire. I pull over and find that my alternator burned out, the smaller plug that connects to the alternator was completely charred black. So I take the car back to the same mechanic with a new alternator (I had a warranty on the old one) and he installed it for me, seeing as how one of the wires from the alternator had been burned, I didn't want to mess with it. So I finally get the car out of the shop this morning and as I'm pulling out of the driveway I noticed the car lost quite a bit of power. I took the car for a drive and whenever I give the car a considerable amount of gas the engine kind of hits a wall and accelerates very slowly. Also, whenever the car is in this struggling state it sometimes backfires if I had to guess I would say the car feels about 20% weaker.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Jul 18, 2018
#2
  • Jul 18, 2018
  • #2
Give us a pic of the alternator wire repair. Keep in mind this may not be your power loss problem, things just start to go bad but lets see what you got.
have you done a recent tune up?
have you had the car long?
 

jrichker

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#3
  • Jul 19, 2018
  • #3
You have three choices:
1.) Learn how to fix the car, Stangnet is a great place to learn.
2.) The mechanic will own your wallet and most of your cash if you don't do #1.
3.) Sell the Mustang for a loss and buy some import junk with a bunch of stickers on it...

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/
 
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FiveOhFoxBody

Member
Mar 19, 2018
9
1
13
Jul 19, 2018
#4
  • Jul 19, 2018
  • #4
Ok, huge update. I was checking the drive belt and found that the belt was rubbing against itself. I'm going to include a pic so you can see what I'm talking about. I went back to the mechanic and he installed a different belt that seemed to solve the issue. However, there is still a little bit of power loss i would estimate that it's at about 90% now and I only really notice it when I'm at about 40mph.
 
F

FiveOhFoxBody

Member
Mar 19, 2018
9
1
13
Jul 19, 2018
#5
  • Jul 19, 2018
  • #5
jrichker said:
You have three choices:
1.) Learn how to fix the car, Stangnet is a great place to learn.
2.) The mechanic will own your wallet and most of your cash if you don't do #1.
3.) Sell the Mustang for a loss and buy some import junk with a bunch of stickers on it...

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/
Click to expand...
Yeah man, I agree. Working on your yourself is definitely the way to go. Unfortunately, I don't always have the time to work on my car or the space (I live in an apt.). I'm definitely gonna look into that link for reading codes, thanks for posting.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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Jul 19, 2018
#6
  • Jul 19, 2018
  • #6
show us a pic of the entire tensioner.. I want to see how it is clocked and where the tensioner is reading.
 
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