Lost sensor
- Thread starter Mafia Mustang
- Start date
bullitstang1313
Member
That looks like the ACT sensor. It looks like your intake doesn't have a port for it anymore so you might want to install it in your intake piping that leads to the throttlebody. That is where it is installed on the 94-95 5.0's.
JChalfan
Member
EDIT: Looks like bullitstang beat me by a few seconds... D'oh!
Did you just swap intakes or something?
It looks like your ACT sensor. It detects the temperature of the incoming air. It could probably have something to do with your warm-up issues.
Some people relocate it to the airbox when they install an intake without a spot for it, or you can drill and tap the intake, which is probably the better idea.
That's assuming I'm right about it being the ACT sensor...
Jeff
Did you just swap intakes or something?
It looks like your ACT sensor. It detects the temperature of the incoming air. It could probably have something to do with your warm-up issues.
Some people relocate it to the airbox when they install an intake without a spot for it, or you can drill and tap the intake, which is probably the better idea.
That's assuming I'm right about it being the ACT sensor...
Jeff
bullitstang1313
Member
Either you can increase the length of the harness and tap into your cold air intake or you can tap the lower intake. Those are about the only options you have.
bullitstang1313
Member
I had to do this on another friends car. We just cut the wires and butt spliced in extra length. We installed it into his cold air intake and it seemed to work just fine.
The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.
If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.
6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing
Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".
If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.
6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing
Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".
It will work fairly well.
The following describes the difference it will make...
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=689064
Originally Posted by vristang
Since this has come up before, I decided to do a little research using the tweecer to check how the computer might react to lower than expected ACT temps/readings.
Here is my new writeup...
Hope it helps,
jason
How will the Fox computer react to the ACT being moved from the lower intake to the Intake Airbox?
Thumbing through the TwEECer (CalEdit) this is what can be seen...
In the X3Z Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine idle rpm after about 192F, maxing out at 64rpm by 208F
FN 220 - EGR Multiplier is 0 until 58F, maxes out at 1 by 60F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* by 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is unaffected by ACT (always 1)
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning
In the A9L Calibration
FN 825B - ACT will increase the engine rpm by 48rpm at 200F, and a max of 72rpm at 226F
EGR Multiplier is .8 until 0F, then rises to a max of 1 by 56F
FN 126 - Spark advance starts to retard at 160F maxing out at -2* at 190F
FN 135 - WOT spark advance is retarded starting at 150F, maxing out at -6* by 240F
FN 300 - Open Loop Fuel Multiplier is .64 until -40F, .81 by 0F, and maxes out at 1 by 76F
SCALAR - ACT MUST be between 100F and 200F for the Adaptive Strategy to start learning
So what does this mean?
Idle speed – Obviously for both calibrations the affect is going to be minimal, assuming all other idle contributors are working properly. Moving the ACT to a cooler location should not have a major impact on idle speed.
EGR – Moving the ACT to a cooler location will affect the function of the EGR. It would not be recommended to try and pass an emissions test with the ACT in the airbox on a cold day (below 60F).
Spark – The Spark Advance is RETARDED with higher temps. Moving the ACT to the airbox can help to keep ignition timing higher. However, keep in mind that Ford used the ACT as a ‘Safety Factor’ for preventing high temp detonation. False information to the EEC-IV will make detonation more likely when the engine is warm/hot.
Fuel Multiplier – The Fuel Multiplier increases with higher ACT temps. Due to the low temps at which the ACT will impact the Fuel Multiplier this is not likely to cause an issue.
Adaptive Strategy – This may be the most critical one for most daily driver Mustangs. Not allowing the Adaptive Control to function (because the ACT never sees 100F in the airbox), could hurt fuel economy and could cause drivability issues.
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