It is looking to me like I should do both the gears and the sub frame connectors... I'm from the Green Bay area of Wisconsin, can anyone recommend a trustworthy shop to do the connectors? The gears or axle?
I to want lower gears in my 7-up with 40k, I did change the wheels, couldn’t leave them alone. Soon to bet replacing valve covers with polished aluminum. Also having trouble getting enough lead in my ass to release the rear cushion so I can fix quarter window motor.Nice car. Upgrade away. If you are driving it, the value don’t matter
It is looking to me like I should do both the gears and the sub frame connectors... I'm from the Green Bay area of Wisconsin, can anyone recommend a trustworthy shop to do the connectors? The gears or axle?
It is looking to me like I should do both the gears and the sub frame connectors... I'm from the Green Bay area of Wisconsin, can anyone recommend a trustworthy shop to do the connectors? The gears or axle?
Find the best body shop in your area to install those. The car has to have all the weight on the wheels. The best thing to use is a drive on frame machine.
If you change to a lower rear gear, the speedometer and odometer will run fast. That will clock more mileage than is actually being driven. Correct me if I’m wrong but that will have a negative affect on the value of the car. The speedometer running fast will be a nuisance
For the AOD, you’de have to pull the transmission and disassemble it to change the speedo ratio correctly. You likely would need to swap to a different output shaft with different number of teeth. AOD’s came with two different geared output shafts. The one made for lower ratios like 3.73 is rare these days. If you can find one, changing the output shaft will require complete disassembly and re-assembly of the transmission.
On a day right after a blizzard and a morning of blowing snow, one cannot hardly NOT dream about spinning the tires with the top down on a 75 degree day! Thanks for all the replies, much to think about.
John, thinking about what you’ve said, I have reconsidered a few things. I am a purist with most old cars, but with the foxbody it is sure easy to get carried away. I have my stock wheels and new rubber in pristine condition stored. The valve cover gaskets after 29 years need replaced, hence why I bought the new polished aluminum to enhance the engine compartment. I stop here. No gears, no shorties, finished! I like the idea of another one to play with, I wish the insurance wasn’t so high on them. Thanks for the tip. I’ll continue to enjoy the 20mpg.
John, thinking about what you’ve said, I have reconsidered a few things. I am a purist with most old cars, but with the foxbody it is sure easy to get carried away. I have my stock wheels and new rubber in pristine condition stored. The valve cover gaskets after 29 years need replaced, hence why I bought the new polished aluminum to enhance the engine compartment. I stop here. No gears, no shorties, finished! I like the idea of another one to play with, I wish the insurance wasn’t so high on them. Thanks for the tip. I’ll continue to enjoy the 20mpg.
Life's to short to worry about the potential value of a car in the future. Could the 7-UP cars bring $25-$30k to the right buyer in prime condition? Maybe. But I doubt it.
Just have fun with your car! In the end, do what makes you happy. You don't seem like you are going to get rid of the car anytime soon, enjoy life. There were over 4,000 of them made.
I totally agree.Agreed. I wanted to keep mine stock but that didn't last long. The fact is in stock form these cars don't stop, don't turn, and don't accelerate compared to the later Mustangs. I modified my car to make it more fun for ME to drive. I've done nothing that couldn't be reversed if somehow the car became worth tons of money in stock form.
I would do the gears. They will add lots to the fun factor of the car, and no one would ever know if you didn't tell them. I would do the sub frame connectors to preserve the structure of the unibody of the car. Both can be changed back in no time.