low mile,all original 7up, should I upgrade it or not?

[90sickfox]

Your buddy has a good idea. You could buy a stock rear used and have it cleaned up and painted...with new 373 gears and a purdy differential cover. Keep the original drum to drum and have fun. You'd save some money taking the whole rear to a shop for rebuild instead of taking the whole car. Also, cuts down time if you tackled it yourself.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

I would also consider installing some full length weld in MM subframe connectors being a convertible. I don’t think that would hurt value either. But that’s my opinion.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

And maybe a K&N filter!

 

[Mustang5L5]

Honestly, tasteful, reversible bolt-one shouldn't hurt the value at all. Purchase parts from top tier vendors vs house brands. Save your original parts and there really shouldn't be an issue.

SFCs are prob the only non-reversible part I'd suggest. These cars are so flexible they are almost considered a mean to preservation. Enough flex over time and things become "loose"

 

[General karthief]

I agree with all of the above suggestions, keep all original parts, along with the sub frame connectors I would add a strut tower brace, convertibles develope cowel shake, because the cowl/windshield shake when going over bumps like railroad tracks, there is no longer any support in that area because the roof was removed, this will help keep the unibody solid.

 

[Mstng93SSP]

That slope gets super slippery. I did gears....then 5 lug 4 wheel discs....then that transformed into heads cam intake.....which transformed into valve body converter....followed by full length subframe connectors....etc My car has a little less than 80k miles....But, like I always say, I personally would mod a 6 original mile 93 cobra...I would, trust me.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I agree with all of the above suggestions, keep all original parts, along with the sub frame connectors I would add a strut tower brace, convertibles develope cowel shake, because the cowl/windshield shake when going over bumps like railroad tracks, there is no longer any support in that area because the roof was removed, this will help keep the unibody solid.

Gotta drill for a STB. At that point it's no longer reversible

 

[General karthief]

Gotta drill for a STB. At that point it's no longer reversible

I agree, but verts need one, I've had several convertibles, remember these are just chopped coupes with questionable bracing.
That 7up car would loose little to no value.

 

[Dan02gt]

+1 to the sub-frame connectors. It's pretty much all reversible in the hands of a good metal worker.

 

[photomatt]

Hmmm... LOTS of good thought here, THANK YOU! I still have some time to think about what to do because when I stopped by my storage shed today, there is about 5 feet of snow in front of the door! ha ha ha I like the idea of changing the axle and like it even better after what was said. Never gave any thoughts about the sub frame connectors. This car is NOT used in any type of racing, etc. Purely weekend drives and evenings to watch the submarine races...

 

[photomatt]

As far as subframe connectors, are bolted in ones "good enough" for a daily casual driver or should I stick with welded ones?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Bolted on better than nothing at all. Welded would be better

 

[hotpony]

Ha, I'm actually struggling with this as well. I picked up a beautiful Scarlett Red 88 GT that has 43k original miles, speed density system and immaculate condition. I've already got a huge stash of parts sitting aside to include Edelbrock heads and intake, long tubes, mass air conversion with 44lb injectors and PRO-M 75mm MAF. I'm taking delivery of a new 347 stroker motor on Sunday for it as well with a Comp cam in it.

While I want to keep the stock parts, I want to build an entire powerplant and drivetrain separately and then pull the factory system out and preserve it. I will even put a tubular k-member in the car. What I will NOT do is weld in subframe connectors or do any gauge pods or anything that will require any sort of drilling of factory components, firewalls or fenders. It's a tough thing to do and I've been here before, cars usually end up completely modded but since the value of these cars is going up over the years I do think it's important to preserve them the best you can.

That's a nice car and you should try to keep it as stock as possible, or at least maintain the factory components, ensuring you have stowed them properly.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Ha, I'm actually struggling with this as well. I picked up a beautiful Scarlett Red 88 GT that has 43k original miles, speed density system and immaculate condition. I've already got a huge stash of parts sitting aside to include Edelbrock heads and intake, long tubes, mass air conversion with 44lb injectors and PRO-M 75mm MAF. I'm taking delivery of a new 347 stroker motor on Sunday for it as well with a Comp cam in it.

While I want to keep the stock parts, I want to build an entire powerplant and drivetrain separately and then pull the factory system out and preserve it. I will even put a tubular k-member in the car. What I will NOT do is weld in subframe connectors or do any gauge pods or anything that will require any sort of drilling of factory components, firewalls or fenders. It's a tough thing to do and I've been here before, cars usually end up completely modded but since the value of these cars is going up over the years I do think it's important to preserve them the best you can.

That's a nice car and you should try to keep it as stock as possible, or at least maintain the factory components, ensuring you have stowed them properly.

Like Dan said. Subframe connectors are irreversible. If you have been there you could see how easy it would be for a experienced frame/body tech to remove em and make the bottom of the car look factory again. I’m in the trade. Not a big deal.

 

[hotpony]

Like Dan said. Subframe connectors are irreversible. If you have been there you could see how easy it would be for a experienced frame/body tech to remove em and make the bottom of the car look factory again. I’m in the trade. Not a big deal.

True but most buyers wouldn't have that skill set and welded components makes them a little more weary, personally if I were to sell it I would put it back to original myself prior to sale. Being in the business you have a unique and valuable skillset. If you must do subframe connectors, do the weld in ones.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

True but most buyers wouldn't have that skill set and welded components makes them a little more weary, personally if I were to sell it I would put it back to original myself prior to sale. Being in the business you have a unique and valuable skillset. If you must do subframe connectors, do the weld in ones.

Sorry I meant reversible or, you know what I mean.

 

[Wayne Waldrep]

Subframe connectors are not a drag racing item or whatever some are implying. They are more of an insurance policy to keep a car with no frame tight and secure. There's no way they will affect value. I'm not going to argue this point because I have people constantly asking if I will sell my car and never once have I been told "that is unless it has subframe connectors."
I do not race any more but after owning my '88GT since new I finally (2 years ago) put a set of MM full lengths on my car. I would have loved to have done this years ago because it made a lot of difference in squeaks and rattles. The car feels much more solid. No way I'd put any other brand on and especially not bolt on. The other benefit is the seat mounts. This was what finally made me do it. After continually breaking seat tracks I finally found that my floor pan had a crack. It was letting my seat track flex and break. The connectors stopped all of that and secured my floor. Another benefit...The car is easier to jack up now. I can jack the whole side up with the jack either toward the front or back. None of these things have anything to do with any form of racing. It's just good for the car.
Bottom line, it's your car. Do whatever you like. Just don't let your car suffer like mine did for so long with no support.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I agree. SFCs are an insurance policy. The way these cars Flex and bend you really are preventing future damage.

I've never raced my car but did discover a tear in the floor from seat pan Flex. MM full lenght SFCs will be going on shortly.

IIRC, one of those stock low-mileage LXs that went through Barrett Jackson last year for $75k or so was bone stock except for SFCs

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Install the sfc’s! You won’t be disappointed. No one will bust your balls about having them on the car. Like these guys said they will prevent the car from further damage, especially if your considering installing rear end gears. One of the best things I did to my car.

 

[Jarhead67]

I have a 1990 7up mustang, 20,500 original miles, almost perfect shape, never even seen rain let alone snow. I'd like to change the rear gears to make it more fun to drive (it is an automatic) but am afraid of ruining any value it has. Thoughts?

I don’t think it’ll hurt the value, just keep the original gears just in case.