Lowered my 66'

You drilled new holes 1.25" lower on the shock tower?

A set of Baer Tracker tie rods are recommened with Granada spindles and a lowered suspension.

Stock upper control arms will put the upper ball joint in a full bind at anything beyond 1" at full suspension drop. This is a very dangerous situation and the car should not be driven until it is corrected.

You can either:
1) reinstall the upper arms in the factory holes

2) purchase or make a wedge to correct for the additional drop

3) purchase aftermarket control arms designed for the additional drop

4) drill new holes at 1", but make sure the 1.25" holes are welded up.
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Granada spindles have a slightly different design than the 65-66 Mustang spindle where the outer tie rod bolts to the spindle.
With lowering changes in toe can become evident causing abnormal tire wear and possible driving quirks.

Ok, so I see you wasted a lot of money on the negative wedge kit. Well, at that point you should have drilled holes 1.75" down to maximize the camber gain. At least you don't have to worry about the ball joint issue.

You sure that's a wedge kit on that control arm and simply not a factory arm with the old worn out ball joint drilled out and a bolt on one installed?

wow cut 720's is gonna get stiff

tyler: that's what I was thinking. I used to run 500# springs on my TPC setup, but switched to #400 springs 'cause I got real tired of the front-end being so dang stiff.

Anyone running 6-cylinder springs with a v8? Good for pure dragracing but just wanted to know how it does on the street

Opentracker does the bottom side bracing. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/index.html

Cobra Automotive does this mod too, which you can kind of see in this pic:

Cobra Automotive sells the plates for do-it-yourselfers.

Maier Racing sells boxed UCA's, but they add material down the sides of the "A," not in the middle. I see that Opentracker does likewise on his "Autocross" UCA's.

The way I would ID the Pro Motorsports "Negative Wedge" kit is I would look for the machined washers, cut at an angle to create a square surface for the fasteners. The wedge requires these machined washers or the fasteners will be cocked.

I wouldn't worry too much about ball joint bind. With a cut down 720 lb/in spring you're never going to bottom out.

Bumpsteer is caused by a mismatch in the arc in which the lower control arm is swinging and the arc in which the tie rod is swinging. Ride height is a factor only to the extent that your target should be to try to get the least amount of bump steer you can in the range of LCA travel where the LCA spends most of its time. (Zero bump steer at all points of LCA travel and at all points of steering input is impossible.) If Granada spindles create bump steer issues (and I believe I have read on the web that this is the case), it's because they change the relationship between the LCA's mounting point (the lower ball joint) and the outer tie rod end's mounting point (the steering knuckle), but they do not change the relationship between the LCA's inner mounting point (the through bolt) and the inner tie rod end's mounting point (the drag link). Again, it has nothing to do with ride height, other than the fact that you're trying to get the least amount of bump steer in the range where the LCA spends most of its time.

2bav8 said:

Ok, so I see you wasted a lot of money on the negative wedge kit. Well, at that point you should have drilled holes 1.75" down to maximize the camber gain. At least you don't have to worry about the ball joint issue.

Click to expand...

A set of Baer Tracker tie rods are recommened with Granada spindles and a lowered suspension.

Click to expand...

www.baer.com