Kilgore Trout said:You can always jack. You just might have to drive up on some pieces of wood or something to initially get the jack under there. Also, Craftsman has a real nice lightweight aluminum floor jack that is pretty low.
Do not lower your car more that 1.5" or 2" at the absolute max. I do not recommend > 1.5" though really...
Kilgore Trout said:Do not lower your car more that 1.5" or 2" at the absolute max. I do not recommend > 1.5" though really...
Nater said:I have the C springs and don't have any problems with getting a floor jack under it. In fact, I did it last night when I did an oil change.
Kilgore, why you spreadin bogus stuff like this? between 2" and 1.5" is no problem, except you need C/C plates for over 1.5", and shocks/struts are really recommended for a 2" drop. however, i know a guy who has sportlines (2"+) with no C/C plates and stock shocks/struts who has driven fine on it for over 1.5 years. of course he had to get an alignment. yes, the suspension geometry will be changed, but it wont not be able to be aligned. a set of c/c plates will greatly help in aligning it. i wouldnt go anything much over 2" though. thats when you start to have things fail on you like ball joints and tie rods get too "stretched"Kilgore Trout said:Well, if you go more than 1.5" or so there is going to be a lot more involved and a lot more to replace in order to get proper and safe suspension geometry. I guess what I am really saying is if you are going to go more than 1.5" know what you are getting into and spend the money to do it properly and safely. It is easy to lower improperly and get a car setup so that it cannot be aligned or is unsafe in rain, gravel, snow, etc.
ponysarepretty said:Will ford C sprigs make it so that a jack cannot fit under the car... never thought of that before I bought them =/
DerekStangGT said:Kilgore, why you spreadin bogus stuff like this? between 2" and 1.5" is no problem, except you need C/C plates for over 1.5", and shocks/struts are really recommended for a 2" drop. however, i know a guy who has sportlines (2"+) with no C/C plates and stock shocks/struts who has driven fine on it for over 1.5 years. of course he had to get an alignment. yes, the suspension geometry will be changed, but it wont not be able to be aligned. a set of c/c plates will greatly help in aligning it. i wouldnt go anything much over 2" though. thats when you start to have things fail on you like ball joints and tie rods get too "stretched"
The picture above shows a 1979-2004 Mustang that has been lowered about 1.5" by installing aftermarket (shorter/stiffer) springs. Before it was lowered, this car's front control arms were parallel to the ground. Lowering the ride height by changing the springs caused the control arms to angle upward. This has a negative effect on front suspension performance. It lowers the front roll center, which increases the car's natural tendancy to understeer. It reduces the range of strut and control arm compression travel. It changes the alignment of the sway bar with the lower control arm. And it changes the alignment of the tie rod with the lower control arm. If the car is lowered much more than 1.5", this misalignment may produce bumpsteer, which occurs when the tie rod pulls the steering arm left or right as you go over a bump.
ok, i would have to agree with that site, however, a normal daily driver will not feel the effects of a 2" drop. rarely do normal people on the street take their car to the limit to even be able to tell whether the car understeers, oversteers, or is neutral. bumpsteer is a maybe as well. i had some for a while, but it turned out to be just the poor road quality. now i have noneFalconGuy016 said:Thats not bogus information. The suspension quality will get worse past 1.5 inches (understeering will increase among other things).
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm
Read up if you wanna know about all that stuff. Basically you need matched shocks/struts to prevent negative effects, and of course that actually gives you many positive effects.
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