lowering that car.....

mean78

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
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alright, so basically my car looks like its got a lift.....

i want to get the nose down about 1 1/2 inches, and the back about a inch, then tuck some fat tires in the back....but thats another thread for another day


but anyway my main question is do you think these are a good idea?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LOWE...020QQitemZ300206881619QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

and do you think i could still use stumpy`s traction bars?

thanks:flag:
 
I do not think lowering blocks are a bad idea.(you get to keep the same ride quality)As far as the slapper bars, if they go to the leaf springs all should be well. But if they bolt /wrap around the rear,then adjustment may be in order.

What about the front? I used 86 GT v-8 springs and cut them to my liking. And they are relatively inexpensive.
 
i do have those spacers on my mustangII and also have the stumpy's traction bars and there is NO clearance issues. up front i'm using stock GT springs from my 2000 GT (free after spring swap) cut to exactly 10 1/4". to help with the idea of better dampening i also put on the mini stock style shocks from speedwaymotors and the ride is great. it has the raked stance and handles great also. BTW i'm running 245-60-14 on 14x7 rims on the back and 195-70-14 on 14x6 up front. there's so many other things i have it that only a pic could do. i will post one as soon as i figure out how to do it. you know how it is with us OLDER guys, maybe i'll get my son to show me.
 
I used those spacers on the rear of my II. The ride quality is hurt some since you are eliminating the rubber isolater. I would estimate a little over half an inch drop with lowering blocks. This is due to the lowering block being about an inch and the rubber isolater it replaces being about 3/8 of an inch. I also took out the second leaf and got about two inches of drop.

david


PS: If you buy those spacers you'll need longer U-bolts also.
 
I used those spacers on the rear of my II. The ride quality is hurt some since you are eliminating the rubber isolater. I would estimate a little over half an inch drop with lowering blocks. This is due to the lowering block being about an inch and the rubber isolater it replaces being about 3/8 of an inch. I also took out the second leaf and got about two inches of drop.

david


PS: If you buy those spacers you'll need longer U-bolts also.


its ok im not in it for ride quality, i want a stiffer suspension anyways.

well i have a set of u bolts from a 9 inch.....would those work?
 
its ok im not in it for ride quality, i want a stiffer suspension anyways.

well i have a set of u bolts from a 9 inch.....would those work?

Nope, welcome to the world of IIdom. You can probably go to advance auto and find something that will work... that is where I got mine. Don't waste your time on any of the standard 8" or 9" Ford U-bolts. The II rearend (minus the pumpkin) is unique.

david
 
Nope, welcome to the world of IIdom. You can probably go to advance auto and find something that will work... that is where I got mine. Don't waste your time on any of the standard 8" or 9" Ford U-bolts. The II rearend (minus the pumpkin) is unique.

david

haha alright cool, what about the front end....

i was thinking may some 86 gt springs trimmed a little?


i have a 215/60/15 front tire on a 15x7 rim with no offset,......it looks like i could go down a inch but im not sure

do you think with that tire it will work out?
 
hey i was taking a look at your car domain, i love how you shortend the rear bumper!.....you dont happen to have a little more detailed discription on how you did that exactly?

is that possible with the front at all?....but just a little bit?
 
On mine I just got the HD A/C springs and cut a coil or two off of them. The rear was as-is. My front tires are 195/60R14s and probably the smallest/narrowest I'd ever put on a 14x7 wheel.

For the front, you could get 2" drop spindles which are pretty reasonable thanks to the hot rodders. But I see no real problems with cuttin a coil. Done it many times on several different rigs.
For the rear you could also reverse the spring eyes. But I think those blocks will work just fine and probably the most cost effective. You should have a bolt supplier somewhere near where you live. They should have the proper U-bolts that you'll need.
 
hey i was taking a look at your car domain, i love how you shortend the rear bumper!.....you dont happen to have a little more detailed discription on how you did that exactly?

is that possible with the front at all?....but just a little bit?

I'll have to take some time to do a better write-up on the modifications. It really was not that difficult though. I laid out the cut line with masking tape, cut it with an air saw, cut the bumper brackets the same amount and rewelded them. I still need to cut a section out of the ends that wrap around the outside so it doesn't overlap the side marker light and epoxy them back together. If I were doing it again, I would probably just make new bumper brackets from 1/4" plate and 1-1/2" square tubing. I'm working on the front one now. I broke one of the front bumper bracket bolt nuts loose inside the frame and had to cut the bolt head to get the bracket off. I may have to cut a hole to get the old nut out of the frame and weld a new nut into the frame.
 
On mine I just got the HD A/C springs and cut a coil or two off of them. The rear was as-is. My front tires are 195/60R14s and probably the smallest/narrowest I'd ever put on a 14x7 wheel.

For the front, you could get 2" drop spindles which are pretty reasonable thanks to the hot rodders. But I see no real problems with cuttin a coil. Done it many times on several different rigs.
For the rear you could also reverse the spring eyes. But I think those blocks will work just fine and probably the most cost effective. You should have a bolt supplier somewhere near where you live. They should have the proper U-bolts that you'll need.


ya i was thinking 2 inch drop spindles but i think 2 inchs might be a little bit to much, i was planning on just cutting a coil or 2, but do you think i would be ok with that size of a tire?.....i really like the 15" wheels on it, i already shaved the inner wheel well lip a little bit....looks realy good tho
 
I'll have to take some time to do a better write-up on the modifications. It really was not that difficult though. I laid out the cut line with masking tape, cut it with an air saw, cut the bumper brackets the same amount and rewelded them. I still need to cut a section out of the ends that wrap around the outside so it doesn't overlap the side marker light and epoxy them back together. If I were doing it again, I would probably just make new bumper brackets from 1/4" plate and 1-1/2" square tubing. I'm working on the front one now. I broke one of the front bumper bracket bolt nuts loose inside the frame and had to cut the bolt head to get the bracket off. I may have to cut a hole to get the old nut out of the frame and weld a new nut into the frame.

ya that would be cool, i was looking at mine today and i was thinking maybe just hammer in the bumper shocks a little bit, but thats just a little red neck for me, and plus it would be hard to get them perfect

i think ill just do like you said and make new brackets with some new metal.

tell me how the front goes tho, i would be interested in that

thanks
 
haha alright cool, what about the front end....

i was thinking may some 86 gt springs trimmed a little?


i have a 215/60/15 front tire on a 15x7 rim with no offset,......it looks like i could go down a inch but im not sure

do you think with that tire it will work out?


I have 16" mustang wheels on mine. I am running a 3/8" spacer on the front( but I could run without it) No problems,
I ( if memory serves) cut 1-1/4 wraps off of my spring. I do know when cutting the first set I tried, 1coil,not enough,so 2 coils, nice , but 2-1/2 :jaw: dropped it in the weeds(too much). So take your time, but I think 1-1/4 to1/2 should work for ya'
 
when i cut the springs for my car i cut off exactly 3 coils. the stock 2000 GT springs are rated at 450 lbs, with the 3 coils i cut off it brings them to 600lbs. i feel it's just right a sporty feeling ride that handles alot better than the old stock mustangII springs. as far as the lowering blocks go i reused the u bolts, your not changing the over all thickness your just moving the axle housing with in the over all thickness. i plan on going with 265-60-15 on the back once i redo the radius of the rear fenders.
 
well i hope the pics come out good.
 

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I would absolutely love to lower mine but are very concerned with the clearances. Right now, the mufflers sit soo low that when I pass a stone, it "clinks" under the car. If there is a bump in the road I get scrapes. What are you guys doing differently?

P3060108.webp


I dropped a 351W with aluminum heads and all the goodies to save on weight but it still rides too low. ( I also added a be cool aluminum radiator which did not fit properly) a different story for another day

My header collectors are 3-4" from the ground. Take a look at the photo of the car. I had the exhaust run just in front of the wheels only because I felt it looked cool.

I believe the shocks are all original but do not feel they will make that much of a difference.

In my opinion, a lowered II with fat tires stuffed inside the wells would look awesome.
 
Unless you stuf those mufflers into the pocketed areas under the rear seat, be prepared for a muffler bash fest. Even glasspacks tucked tight to the driveline are targets, but not as bad.

Most of the IIs are ran to the rear axle and dumped before the rear axle. Or they are in the stock location to the right of the gas tank. There are a few that have it dumped in front or the rear wheels, similiar to what you did. Not a whole lot you can do with these things.

Here's what I have for now. It's 2.5 mandrel bent with 3" from the muffs back.

DragstangrearJuly99.webp

DrgstngExhbattcutout.webp


I want to change the section from the muffs back and either put in a fuel cell and run the pipes straight out the back or leave in the stock tank and just go with stock 67-69 Camaro bends.