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  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech

lowering that car.....

  • Thread starter Thread starter mean78
  • Start date Start date Mar 18, 2008

mean78

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
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Mar 18, 2008
#1
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #1
alright, so basically my car looks like its got a lift.....

i want to get the nose down about 1 1/2 inches, and the back about a inch, then tuck some fat tires in the back....but thats another thread for another day


but anyway my main question is do you think these are a good idea?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LOWE...020QQitemZ300206881619QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

and do you think i could still use stumpy`s traction bars?

thanks
 

itsaMustangtoo

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
292
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0
Carlisle,Pa
Mar 18, 2008
#2
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #2
I do not think lowering blocks are a bad idea.(you get to keep the same ride quality)As far as the slapper bars, if they go to the leaf springs all should be well. But if they bolt /wrap around the rear,then adjustment may be in order.

What about the front? I used 86 GT v-8 springs and cut them to my liking. And they are relatively inexpensive.
 
M

manny

Founding Member
Dec 5, 2001
590
6
16
TAMPA FL
Mar 18, 2008
#3
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #3
i do have those spacers on my mustangII and also have the stumpy's traction bars and there is NO clearance issues. up front i'm using stock GT springs from my 2000 GT (free after spring swap) cut to exactly 10 1/4". to help with the idea of better dampening i also put on the mini stock style shocks from speedwaymotors and the ride is great. it has the raked stance and handles great also. BTW i'm running 245-60-14 on 14x7 rims on the back and 195-70-14 on 14x6 up front. there's so many other things i have it that only a pic could do. i will post one as soon as i figure out how to do it. you know how it is with us OLDER guys, maybe i'll get my son to show me.
 
D

dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
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17
Winston-Salem, NC
Mar 18, 2008
#4
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #4
I used those spacers on the rear of my II. The ride quality is hurt some since you are eliminating the rubber isolater. I would estimate a little over half an inch drop with lowering blocks. This is due to the lowering block being about an inch and the rubber isolater it replaces being about 3/8 of an inch. I also took out the second leaf and got about two inches of drop.

david


PS: If you buy those spacers you'll need longer U-bolts also.
 

mean78

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
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Mar 18, 2008
#5
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #5
dmoody said:
I used those spacers on the rear of my II. The ride quality is hurt some since you are eliminating the rubber isolater. I would estimate a little over half an inch drop with lowering blocks. This is due to the lowering block being about an inch and the rubber isolater it replaces being about 3/8 of an inch. I also took out the second leaf and got about two inches of drop.

david


PS: If you buy those spacers you'll need longer U-bolts also.
Click to expand...


its ok im not in it for ride quality, i want a stiffer suspension anyways.

well i have a set of u bolts from a 9 inch.....would those work?
 
D

dmoody

Founding Member
Nov 4, 2002
789
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17
Winston-Salem, NC
Mar 18, 2008
#6
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #6
mean78 said:
its ok im not in it for ride quality, i want a stiffer suspension anyways.

well i have a set of u bolts from a 9 inch.....would those work?
Click to expand...

Nope, welcome to the world of IIdom. You can probably go to advance auto and find something that will work... that is where I got mine. Don't waste your time on any of the standard 8" or 9" Ford U-bolts. The II rearend (minus the pumpkin) is unique.

david
 

mean78

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
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Mar 18, 2008
#7
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #7
dmoody said:
Nope, welcome to the world of IIdom. You can probably go to advance auto and find something that will work... that is where I got mine. Don't waste your time on any of the standard 8" or 9" Ford U-bolts. The II rearend (minus the pumpkin) is unique.

david
Click to expand...

haha alright cool, what about the front end....

i was thinking may some 86 gt springs trimmed a little?


i have a 215/60/15 front tire on a 15x7 rim with no offset,......it looks like i could go down a inch but im not sure

do you think with that tire it will work out?
 

welder4956

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 28, 2003
230
95
38
Birmingham, AL
Mar 18, 2008
#8
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #8
mean78 said:
well i have a set of u bolts from a 9 inch.....would those work?
Click to expand...

You can get new u-bolts here for $4 each:

http://www.espo.com/
 

mean78

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
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0
Mar 18, 2008
#9
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #9
hey i was taking a look at your car domain, i love how you shortend the rear bumper!.....you dont happen to have a little more detailed discription on how you did that exactly?

is that possible with the front at all?....but just a little bit?
 

Dano78

Founding Member
Nov 1, 1999
2,633
2
47
Vancouver, WA
Mar 18, 2008
#10
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #10
On mine I just got the HD A/C springs and cut a coil or two off of them. The rear was as-is. My front tires are 195/60R14s and probably the smallest/narrowest I'd ever put on a 14x7 wheel.

For the front, you could get 2" drop spindles which are pretty reasonable thanks to the hot rodders. But I see no real problems with cuttin a coil. Done it many times on several different rigs.
For the rear you could also reverse the spring eyes. But I think those blocks will work just fine and probably the most cost effective. You should have a bolt supplier somewhere near where you live. They should have the proper U-bolts that you'll need.
 

welder4956

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 28, 2003
230
95
38
Birmingham, AL
Mar 18, 2008
#11
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #11
mean78 said:
hey i was taking a look at your car domain, i love how you shortend the rear bumper!.....you dont happen to have a little more detailed discription on how you did that exactly?

is that possible with the front at all?....but just a little bit?
Click to expand...

I'll have to take some time to do a better write-up on the modifications. It really was not that difficult though. I laid out the cut line with masking tape, cut it with an air saw, cut the bumper brackets the same amount and rewelded them. I still need to cut a section out of the ends that wrap around the outside so it doesn't overlap the side marker light and epoxy them back together. If I were doing it again, I would probably just make new bumper brackets from 1/4" plate and 1-1/2" square tubing. I'm working on the front one now. I broke one of the front bumper bracket bolt nuts loose inside the frame and had to cut the bolt head to get the bracket off. I may have to cut a hole to get the old nut out of the frame and weld a new nut into the frame.
 

mean78

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Mar 3, 2008
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Mar 18, 2008
#12
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #12
Dano78 said:
On mine I just got the HD A/C springs and cut a coil or two off of them. The rear was as-is. My front tires are 195/60R14s and probably the smallest/narrowest I'd ever put on a 14x7 wheel.

For the front, you could get 2" drop spindles which are pretty reasonable thanks to the hot rodders. But I see no real problems with cuttin a coil. Done it many times on several different rigs.
For the rear you could also reverse the spring eyes. But I think those blocks will work just fine and probably the most cost effective. You should have a bolt supplier somewhere near where you live. They should have the proper U-bolts that you'll need.
Click to expand...


ya i was thinking 2 inch drop spindles but i think 2 inchs might be a little bit to much, i was planning on just cutting a coil or 2, but do you think i would be ok with that size of a tire?.....i really like the 15" wheels on it, i already shaved the inner wheel well lip a little bit....looks realy good tho
 

mean78

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
89
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0
Mar 18, 2008
#13
  • Mar 18, 2008
  • #13
welder4956 said:
I'll have to take some time to do a better write-up on the modifications. It really was not that difficult though. I laid out the cut line with masking tape, cut it with an air saw, cut the bumper brackets the same amount and rewelded them. I still need to cut a section out of the ends that wrap around the outside so it doesn't overlap the side marker light and epoxy them back together. If I were doing it again, I would probably just make new bumper brackets from 1/4" plate and 1-1/2" square tubing. I'm working on the front one now. I broke one of the front bumper bracket bolt nuts loose inside the frame and had to cut the bolt head to get the bracket off. I may have to cut a hole to get the old nut out of the frame and weld a new nut into the frame.
Click to expand...

ya that would be cool, i was looking at mine today and i was thinking maybe just hammer in the bumper shocks a little bit, but thats just a little red neck for me, and plus it would be hard to get them perfect

i think ill just do like you said and make new brackets with some new metal.

tell me how the front goes tho, i would be interested in that

thanks
 

itsaMustangtoo

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
292
0
0
Carlisle,Pa
Mar 19, 2008
#14
  • Mar 19, 2008
  • #14
mean78 said:
haha alright cool, what about the front end....

i was thinking may some 86 gt springs trimmed a little?


i have a 215/60/15 front tire on a 15x7 rim with no offset,......it looks like i could go down a inch but im not sure

do you think with that tire it will work out?
Click to expand...


I have 16" mustang wheels on mine. I am running a 3/8" spacer on the front( but I could run without it) No problems,
I ( if memory serves) cut 1-1/4 wraps off of my spring. I do know when cutting the first set I tried, 1coil,not enough,so 2 coils, nice , but 2-1/2 dropped it in the weeds(too much). So take your time, but I think 1-1/4 to1/2 should work for ya'
 
M

manny

Founding Member
Dec 5, 2001
590
6
16
TAMPA FL
Mar 19, 2008
#15
  • Mar 19, 2008
  • #15
when i cut the springs for my car i cut off exactly 3 coils. the stock 2000 GT springs are rated at 450 lbs, with the 3 coils i cut off it brings them to 600lbs. i feel it's just right a sporty feeling ride that handles alot better than the old stock mustangII springs. as far as the lowering blocks go i reused the u bolts, your not changing the over all thickness your just moving the axle housing with in the over all thickness. i plan on going with 265-60-15 on the back once i redo the radius of the rear fenders.
 

mean78

New Member
Mar 3, 2008
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Mar 20, 2008
#16
  • Mar 20, 2008
  • #16
thanks for your help guys!......im probably going to try a few things this weekend!
 
M

manny

Founding Member
Dec 5, 2001
590
6
16
TAMPA FL
May 18, 2008
#17
  • May 18, 2008
  • #17
well i hope the pics come out good.
 

Attachments

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M

manny

Founding Member
Dec 5, 2001
590
6
16
TAMPA FL
May 18, 2008
#18
  • May 18, 2008
  • #18
one more
 

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vooderman

New Member
May 5, 2008
16
1
0
Lockport, Illinois
May 18, 2008
#19
  • May 18, 2008
  • #19
I would absolutely love to lower mine but are very concerned with the clearances. Right now, the mufflers sit soo low that when I pass a stone, it "clinks" under the car. If there is a bump in the road I get scrapes. What are you guys doing differently?



I dropped a 351W with aluminum heads and all the goodies to save on weight but it still rides too low. ( I also added a be cool aluminum radiator which did not fit properly) a different story for another day

My header collectors are 3-4" from the ground. Take a look at the photo of the car. I had the exhaust run just in front of the wheels only because I felt it looked cool.

I believe the shocks are all original but do not feel they will make that much of a difference.

In my opinion, a lowered II with fat tires stuffed inside the wells would look awesome.
 

Dano78

Founding Member
Nov 1, 1999
2,633
2
47
Vancouver, WA
May 19, 2008
#20
  • May 19, 2008
  • #20
Unless you stuf those mufflers into the pocketed areas under the rear seat, be prepared for a muffler bash fest. Even glasspacks tucked tight to the driveline are targets, but not as bad.

Most of the IIs are ran to the rear axle and dumped before the rear axle. Or they are in the stock location to the right of the gas tank. There are a few that have it dumped in front or the rear wheels, similiar to what you did. Not a whole lot you can do with these things.

Here's what I have for now. It's 2.5 mandrel bent with 3" from the muffs back.




I want to change the section from the muffs back and either put in a fuel cell and run the pipes straight out the back or leave in the stock tank and just go with stock 67-69 Camaro bends.
 
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