I have a 2001 mustang. I bought the Mach 1 subframe connector kit from LRS. The front mounting holes are already pre drilled and tapped but the rears have clamps to mount them. Any advice, pictures, diagrams, etc. as to how to mount the rears correctly please let me know I would appreciate it. Or if you have dealt with them and have a sugesstion please send my way. Also I think they are on the bullit, conv.s and cobras not to sure about that but I heard that somewhere. I also plan to have them wleded on once setteled good idea yes no? Thanks.
Mach 1 subrame connectors Help Please???????????????????
- Thread starter ericmcn
- Start date
They are junk. You need MM Full Length Subs welded in.
WTF??? Should work for what you are doing??
There are 2 options for sub frame connectors:
1)leave the factory bolt ons on
OR
2)weld on full lengths.
Don't weld on factorys...full lengths are cheap.
Maybe there is holes drilled in the rear I have not seen yet, But I am putting this on a 6er with a little power adders its not a GT so I do not know of the rear frame if differefnt because of the 7.5. Maybe thats why I did not see any holes pre drilled but they might be there and I am blind I was told that the upper attachments for a quad shock is on the 6ers but I just have to weld the plate to my axle housings on due to the 8.8 and 7.5 difference. When all is said and done I should have about 290hp ?tq thats n/a coming pretty soon hopefully. Then 4.2 stroker time add another 40 to both after a certain mileage probably 100,000. And if money allows at that point a turbo. I dont see why so much complaining about them if there on the 03-04 cobras pupming out asz loads of power and torque. Barnaby thanks for the info to the actual question Ateup the reason I was thinking of welding as well is for added strength and piece of mind. I do agree full lenthgs are cheap but these are from Ford and I am Ford Racing perfomance parts man. And in the end for resale value these look better they go with the curve of the floor pan and frame and are a Ford item not considered a racing add on. Thanks for the input.
SaleenGT2001
Well-Known Member
you do realize it takes a LOT for a GT to break 300 NA dont you?
as stated before what you bought is junk. send it back and buy full length and have them welded in. as for the resale value, mods wont do anything for that unless you are talking s/c, turbo, or built engine and even then it's not much
another thing you should forget about it the quad shock. it was a "band aid" fix from ford for the wheel hop problem. a GOOD set of LCA's will eliminate the need for the quads being there at all
Also when I meant resale value people want original ford parts and this is one of them. And also I am trying to keep it a sleeper pnp the stock heads bigger valves, pnp upper and lower stock intakes, cam, plus what I already have. I do not want someone to think that O this car was just used to go racing with and is dogged out as you will see when s/c and turbos are added. And that may come after the 4.2 maybe. Built motor except for a cam's lug n chug and the extra speed are for the average buyer hard to spot. And I might buy mufflers that will still flow but muffle the sound.
ChillPhatCat
20+ Year Stangneter 
No offense, but considering that the market for a V6 is usually teenage girls... I don't think you have to worry about subframe connectors hurting resale.
And this is coming from someone who used to have a cammed 3.8L Camaro.
And this is coming from someone who used to have a cammed 3.8L Camaro.
SaleenGT2001
Well-Known Member
Yeah what has been done to your car?
Subframe connectors will not hurt resale value.
Some bolt on mods would allow you to ask alittle bit more
for your car if you sell it.Try to fine a serious buyer or a
mustang enthusiast to buy your car.Their are many benefits
to having subframe connectors on your mustang coupe or vert.
My subjestion is to get Maximum Motorsport or Steeda full length
subframe connectors if you plan on doing them at all.
Subframe connectors will not hurt resale value.
Some bolt on mods would allow you to ask alittle bit more
for your car if you sell it.Try to fine a serious buyer or a
mustang enthusiast to buy your car.Their are many benefits
to having subframe connectors on your mustang coupe or vert.
My subjestion is to get Maximum Motorsport or Steeda full length
subframe connectors if you plan on doing them at all.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
- 1,865
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I have these connectors... I noticed a little difference, but full lengths are the way to go.
The fronts bolt in where the holes are drilled, obviously. Once you see where the connectors sit in the back, you will notice two holes on each side where those little clips slide into. Slide the clips in the holes and then you can bolt the connectors up. Otherwise, without the clips, there would be nowhere to bolt them up.
The fronts bolt in where the holes are drilled, obviously. Once you see where the connectors sit in the back, you will notice two holes on each side where those little clips slide into. Slide the clips in the holes and then you can bolt the connectors up. Otherwise, without the clips, there would be nowhere to bolt them up.
Thanks burning rubber lol! O I did see the two slots in the rear I was just making sure I was not blind and missed any pre drilled holes. As for what is done to the car in my garage most of it is posted there. And maybe one day once I do the bottom end 4.2 stroked n all forged and if money allows a turbo or a bigger wet shot of juice I will switch to full lengths. But for right now It is all upper end stuff being put on the usuall pnp your stock heads with bigger valves, pnp upper and lower intakes, bigger fuel rails etc. and the mods stated at my garage I will put pic.'s up when she is all back together. So sad today my 93 5.0 conv. has been sold out of storage she goes. But to someone I know who should treat her right and he told me once I am done with the six I can always buy back the 5.0 I thought that was nice.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
- 1,865
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No problem. I didn't see how they bolted up at first, so I talked to my buddy who took them off his Bullitt and he had me on the right track in a few seconds.
Well thanks anyway especially for awnsering the actuall question. But did your rears need allitle push to make contatc/flush with the rear frame rails, the fronts bolt in good and are flush but the rears seem like I might have to take a jack to them to mount flush there is about a 2-3in. gap till they meet the rails. Or they just did not bend them enough at the factoey because I am pretty sure my frame is not bent lol. I have flipped them both ways just to make sure they were nnot upside down did you have this problem? I have heard some say with the full length bbk's they had to use a jack to get them where they wanted them. I do not mean on the car but the connectors I know all the wheels need to have the full weight on them and be on a level surface. Hmm................................................... or maybe it is my springs making the difference?
