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MAD EASY!!!! homemade mil eliminators

  • Thread starter Thread starter krly79
  • Start date Start date Dec 10, 2003
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    96-04 mil eliminator
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krly79

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May 6, 2003
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VA Beach & So Illinois
Dec 10, 2003
#1
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #1
mil eliminators diagram

It cost me like $3 or something. Only done on the back two O2's. I didn't use the little board that it lists, but either way it's up to you. I just used the caps and resistors. Enjoy!
 

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  • mil_eliminator_post.webp
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snowb07

New Member
Jul 22, 2003
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soon to be CT
Dec 10, 2003
#2
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #2
why did you not post this about a month ago when I needed them,,
very cool,, I am saving the pic
Fred
 

krly79

Member
May 6, 2003
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VA Beach & So Illinois
Dec 10, 2003
#3
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #3
I recently moved, so everything was in boxes. I just see alot people come here looking for advice and opinions. These things are about $60 bucks or so for something so trivial. That is a good bit of money that could be put into a more usefull and worthwhile mod and besides, it's cheaper!
 
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MrE-Man

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Feb 20, 2002
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Dec 10, 2003
#4
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #4
Interesting... but I'm not sure I'm following...

Where do the PC boards come into play??
 

jadesville

the polarbear conservation corps protects a polarb
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Dec 10, 2003
#5
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #5
thanks man!
 

krly79

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May 6, 2003
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VA Beach & So Illinois
Dec 10, 2003
#6
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #6
you can buy pc boards and break them into small square peices and put the resistor and cap on it. It has holes in it that you can put the leads through and solder them on the back. It's not a big deal if you don't use them. I didn't because I just thought it was pain. A little easier without them. you can just strip the wire and tape or solder them together. I just used the resistors and caps.
 
6

68 & 00 GT

New Member
May 14, 2003
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Dec 10, 2003
#7
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #7
cool wish my printer worked. My friend needs this !
Oh well I'll print it from work tomorrow. Thanks for posting it up -
 

smttysmth02gt

Have you seen my sig lately?
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 18, 2002
238
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Gulf Coast
Dec 10, 2003
#8
  • Dec 10, 2003
  • #8
krly79 said:
you can buy pc boards and break them into small square peices and put the resistor and cap on it. It has holes in it that you can put the leads through and solder them on the back. It's not a big deal if you don't use them. I didn't because I just thought it was pain. A little easier without them. you can just strip the wire and tape or solder them together. I just used the resistors and caps.
Click to expand...

One other thing to mention is the heat that is produced down there. It WILL melt the solder if it gets hot enough. I had to solder my o2's a while back and ended up buying new ones.
 

PezKing

New Member
Jan 21, 2003
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middletown, DE
Dec 19, 2003
#9
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #9
anyone use this home-made MIL eliminator successfully long term?
 
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mfewtrail

Member
Sep 3, 2003
82
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6
North GA
Dec 19, 2003
#10
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #10
Thanks for the info on this..gonna have to try it on a buddies car that was looking into buying those $60 MIL eliminators. As far as the heat issue is concerned, would some form of exhaust tape/wrap help keep the solder from melting..I would imagine it would help a little bit anyways?
 

krly79

Member
May 6, 2003
464
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16
VA Beach & So Illinois
Dec 19, 2003
#11
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #11
I didn't use any solder and I've been running mine going on a year with no problems yet. I've driven in everything between 98 degrees with 100% humidity to about 15 degrees with no humidity, both for long periods of time with absolutely no problems.
 

poolee

New Member
Aug 24, 2003
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melbourne, fl
Dec 19, 2003
#12
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #12
PezKing said:
anyone use this home-made MIL eliminator successfully long term?
Click to expand...

I did the same thing, just soldered the whole thing together and wrapped it in heat shrink. I've had it on for almost 2 years now with no problems.

I lost the picture though, thanks for posting it.
 

Milenko

Skid Mark Layer...only not fro
Founding Member
Nov 5, 2001
462
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19
Boston, MA
Dec 19, 2003
#13
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #13
haha these seem to work more often than the ones that people are buying for 60
 

01MustangMan

Founding Member
Dec 9, 2001
734
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0
Fort Myers, Florida
Dec 19, 2003
#14
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #14
poolee said:
I did the same thing, just soldered the whole thing together and wrapped it in heat shrink. I've had it on for almost 2 years now with no problems.

I lost the picture though, thanks for posting it.
Click to expand...

Thats what I did, Sodered then together so the connection wa strong, then wrapped them in the Black Tubing that you can get at the automotive store and I had my car for 1 1/2 years no problem... It will last a long time if you do it right
 

Milenko

Skid Mark Layer...only not fro
Founding Member
Nov 5, 2001
462
1
19
Boston, MA
Dec 19, 2003
#15
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #15
Nice and rotated for everyone.

 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
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Tucson, AZ
Dec 19, 2003
#16
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #16
Thanks for the post milenko. You will save my brother some money.
Scott
 

FastRedPonyCar

Founding Member
Apr 7, 2002
1,678
4
39
I pee sitting down...or do I?
Dec 19, 2003
#17
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #17
if it's easy, why would it be mad?
 
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No Control

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
263
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San Diego, CA
Dec 19, 2003
#18
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #18
2 years/30k miles with home-mades. No problems...
 

Bone Racing

New Member
Sep 7, 2003
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Long Island, NY
Dec 19, 2003
#19
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #19
good job
 

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 2, 2003
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Sea of Tranquility
Dec 19, 2003
#20
  • Dec 19, 2003
  • #20
I knew it was a simple process but didn't have the correct values needed for the resisters. Now there is nothing stopping me. Thanks.
 
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