Maf?

I saw modest gains on the dyno using a c&l maf on my gt when it was n/a. You have to use the c&l inlet pipe too to avoid check engine lights (More flow then stock units). I would expect 5-7 whp.
 
twogts4us said:
OEM is good to 400 HP. The C&L MAF uses the stock electronics and is simply a freeier flowing tube that leans the A/F ratio to make power. :notnice:
OEM is a good unit and will support 400hp (obviously in a blown car in most cases), but when is more power ever a thumbs down ? My a/f was 12.5:1 when using the c&l meter. I had no tuner and a steeda timing adjuster set at 14*. Most guys that are n/a and don't have the money for a blower setup are looking for every last available hp, and the c&l maf is a way to pick up a few. I understand that bang for the buck, an upgraded maf is not the best mod in the world but it is still a valid option for someone who wants every last hp.
 
Lons2001GT said:
OEM is a good unit and will support 400hp (obviously in a blown car in most cases), but when is more power ever a thumbs down ? My a/f was 12.5:1 when using the c&l meter. I had no tuner and a steeda timing adjuster set at 14*. Most guys that are n/a and don't have the money for a blower setup are looking for every last available hp, and the c&l maf is a way to pick up a few. I understand that bang for the buck, an upgraded maf is not the best mod in the world but it is still a valid option for someone who wants every last hp.
It's just my opinion...C&L MAFs are junk. The make power, but unreliably. You take one of the most delicate electronic pieces in the car and throw the R&D in the garbage. Heck, just look at it. The C&L MAF is nothing more than an expensive cast (it's not even billet) aluminum tube...you could likely use a piece of PVC pipe and get the same effect. Leaning the motor out is a good way to make power and get every little bit you can, but I just think tuning it to do this is a better, more reliable way to do it.
 
Lons2001GT said:
OEM is a good unit and will support 400hp (obviously in a blown car in most cases), but when is more power ever a thumbs down ? My a/f was 12.5:1 when using the c&l meter. I had no tuner and a steeda timing adjuster set at 14*. Most guys that are n/a and don't have the money for a blower setup are looking for every last available hp, and the c&l maf is a way to pick up a few. I understand that bang for the buck, an upgraded maf is not the best mod in the world but it is still a valid option for someone who wants every last hp.

The problems it can cause are not worth the couple of hp you gain from them.
http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?threadid=25092&highlight=maf+and+problems
 
Yeah, in Sean Hyland's book he's pretty against aftermarket MAFs. There are OEM Ford MAFs that can deliver increased airflow, if it is really necessary. The Lightning meter (with 42# injectors) will support in excess of 600hp with OEM reliability. Since the range of the meter is tied to the injector size of the original car, you can just change to another Ford meter with a higher airflow range if needed by your combination.