Mark 8?

gtstangau

Member
Jan 9, 2006
133
0
16
Alabama
I have heard alot about the blocks in the mark 8's being like the best block out there an being good up to like 1200 hp. I doubt I will ever be making that kinda power but I was just wondering if they had that block in every mark 8 or just certain years? I found a newer mark 8 at a junkyard for like $800 for the complete car minus the front wheels an a radiator other than that its all there its still got the 4V 4.6. Do you think I should get it?
 
nope, thats a "F5LY" block, which was used from 1993 to 1995, not saying its not "ok" to use but the 1996 to 1998's use a "F6LY" block which is more desirable:nice:

+ somethings for the "F5LY" (1993 to 1995) blocks are discontiued by Ford, like the side load bolts and a few other parts:eek:

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I thought the 93-4 was the older weaker block.

I wish we had you at my work. Our parts manager is very good but the guy he has at night ( I work some nights) is ok but he is learning. Good parts guys are getting really hard to find.
 
not a problem Mike :nice: and I know about quality of parts counter people as thers No One comming up thru the ranks anymore:nonono: atleast not around the Mid Atlantic area:(

shame too, as the money is good, get to play on the net all day long, 40hrs a week, salary and commissions and I dont get my hands dirty:D
 
Thanks guys I was just wanting to know what years they had the good block in them! I think it is a 98 so I might go ahead an buy it, that will be a good platform for a built TT 4V wich is my dream!
 
I have heard alot about the blocks in the mark 8's being like the best block out there an being good up to like 1200 hp. I doubt I will ever be making that kinda power but I was just wondering if they had that block in every mark 8 or just certain years? I found a newer mark 8 at a junkyard for like $800 for the complete car minus the front wheels an a radiator other than that its all there its still got the 4V 4.6. Do you think I should get it?

Unless you're planning on making big power, you're kinda wasting your money. Not to mention the Mark VIII block isn't a direct swap and has to be drilled for water passages of the 2V heads. None of the modular blocks are "weak" by todays standards and you could easily surpass 600-650rwhp with any of them without any worry (early '92-'95 iron blocks being the exception). If you're willing to do the work to convert it, and are in it for the 80lb weight savings over your current iron block, then I say go for it. If you're in it to swap out a perfectly good engine, just to go with a stronger block that'll never see over 400hp, don't waste your time.
 
Unless you're planning on making big power, you're kinda wasting your money. Not to mention the Mark VIII block isn't a direct swap and has to be drilled for water passages of the 2V heads. None of the modular blocks are "weak" by todays standards and you could easily surpass 600-650rwhp with any of them without any worry (early '92-'95 iron blocks being the exception). If you're willing to do the work to convert it, and are in it for the 80lb weight savings over your current iron block, then I say go for it. If you're in it to swap out a perfectly good engine, just to go with a stronger block that'll never see over 400hp, don't waste your time.

Why would he waste his time putting 2v heads on a 4v engine? Especially when it already comes with heads.
 
Unless you're planning on making big power, you're kinda wasting your money. Not to mention the Mark VIII block isn't a direct swap and has to be drilled for water passages of the 2V heads. None of the modular blocks are "weak" by todays standards and you could easily surpass 600-650rwhp with any of them without any worry (early '92-'95 iron blocks being the exception). If you're willing to do the work to convert it, and are in it for the 80lb weight savings over your current iron block, then I say go for it. If you're in it to swap out a perfectly good engine, just to go with a stronger block that'll never see over 400hp, don't waste your time.

Yeah it would definatley be staying 4V, I wouldn't waste all that money on a 2V when the one in my car runs fine already. Im just thinkin of my dream motor would be a 32V Twin Turbo monster an I have heard that the 96-98 cobra block would be the best platform to do that with. I already know that swapping out the 2V for 4V isn't just a direct swap but maybe one day I will have the cash an time to make it happen.
 
not a problem Mike :nice: and I know about quality of parts counter people as thers No One comming up thru the ranks anymore:nonono: atleast not around the Mid Atlantic area:(

shame too, as the money is good, get to play on the net all day long, 40hrs a week, salary and commissions and I dont get my hands dirty:D

im doing ford parts counter now. its hard trying to remember all the control/basic numbers. my manager can rattle any of them off.
 
Why would he waste his time putting 2v heads on a 4v engine? Especially when it already comes with heads.

Because for one, the old Mark VIII/Cobra uses the old "B" style DOHC heads. These heads don't promote a lot of velocity down low and in the mid ranges and aren't ideal for promoting much in the line of low end torque for street use. This is one reason the '99-up 2V GT's will run neck and neck with an early 4V Cobra....even with the GT giving up 45hp to the Cobra right from the start. On top fo that, they've been kind of neglected as far as aftermarket intakes are concerned. Unlike the "C" and "Tumble Port" DOHC heads on the later Cobra's. This means that your option for the B-heads are limited to a ported/extrude-honed Cobra intake, or a swap to a Non-intercooled 1.7L Autorotor. Which get's pretty costly!!!

Finally, doing a complete 4V conversion is actually more costly and time consuming than just building up an aluminum block for an existing 2V set up. When you factor in the cost of the exhaust components and the needed rewiring and rerouting of the accesory components, just to get it to run a stock 285hp (Mark VIII numbers), it's hardly worth the effort. You've got to really start spending money to make these babys run. Which is fine, unless you're on a shoe string budget.

Back to what I was referring to, the 2V aluminum block set up is actually quite popular amongst the guys building up their engines who plan on making big power, while keeping the weight down in the front end and for the autocross guys who are building them up for the same reason. As I stated before....going with the Aluminum block with the 2V heads will knock 80lbs off the front end. Couple that with a battery transfer to the trunk and some tubular front end components and you'd have yourself one wicked launching/handling ride! :nice: