mass air conversion
- Thread starter 50stangz
- Start date
there is a wire going from either your distributor of mass air meter i cant remember which. it goes to your computer and your computer will try to adjust your timing. there is an inline fuse looking thing called a spout. pull it out. i makes it so your computer can no longer adjust your timing.
my friend just did a 5.0 to 351w swap in his 95' and we were stumped for like 4 hours cause the car would start then idle really rough then die. then he remembered about the spout and pulled it out and it runs fine now.
my friend just did a 5.0 to 351w swap in his 95' and we were stumped for like 4 hours cause the car would start then idle really rough then die. then he remembered about the spout and pulled it out and it runs fine now.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
You want the spout in so the computer CAN control timing. It may have allowed the car to run, but something is still wrong if you have to pull the spout out to get it to run.
Try pulling the diagnostic codes and see if the computer gives you some hints as to what's wrong. Double check all the electrical connections/grounds.
Try pulling the diagnostic codes and see if the computer gives you some hints as to what's wrong. Double check all the electrical connections/grounds.
Yeah, my buddys car does the same thing with his conversion? It idles but it jumps up and down, but stays running that way! But it also doesnt do anything different when you unplug the mass air meter, and no check engine light either??? But I noticed if you put you hand over the intake pipe and constrict the air flow it idles fine??? What the hell??? Anyway he uses a computer from a 91 mustang. Let me know if you figure out what the problem is cause its buggin the **** out of us! Thanks... 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
