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Brakes Master Cylinder Brake lines W/third Line?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Swhitney
  • Start date Start date Sep 23, 2021
S

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
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Sep 23, 2021
#1
  • Sep 23, 2021
  • #1
I'm in the middle of trying to install the 93 Cobra master cylinder using the brake line adapter, but I quickly realized my setup never had a third brake line going to the master cylinder. What am I missing here? What steps should I now take?

 

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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,247
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Massachusetts
Sep 23, 2021
#2
  • Sep 23, 2021
  • #2
The union on the bottom shouldn't be there from the factory. Looks like someone has already done the 3-2 conversion. The 3rd line to the MC is the one going to the backside of the union 90* to the prop valve.

You just need the two lines going to the cobra MC, which should be the same two lines that went in that spot for the OEM 3-port MC
 
S

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
184
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Oregon City
Sep 23, 2021
#3
  • Sep 23, 2021
  • #3
Mustang5L5 said:
The union on the bottom shouldn't be there from the factory. Looks like someone has already done the 3-2 conversion. The 3rd line to the MC is the one going to the backside of the union 90* to the prop valve.

You just need the two lines going to the cobra MC, which should be the same two lines that went in that spot for the OEM 3-port MC
Click to expand...


Are you referring to the image below? How should it be routed? Do I need a new proportioning valve block, or does it simply need to be blocked off? So confused right now.

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,247
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Sep 23, 2021
#4
  • Sep 23, 2021
  • #4
I'm saying leave it alone. The work is done.

All you need to do is connect the MC to the combo valve with the 2 lines. 1 line is shown with the blue fitting, and the other is missing (the empty port)
 
S

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
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Sep 23, 2021
#5
  • Sep 23, 2021
  • #5
Mustang5L5 said:
I'm saying leave it alone. The work is done.

All you need to do is connect the MC to the combo valve with the 2 lines. 1 line is shown with the blue fitting, and the other is missing (the empty port)
Click to expand...


But still need to do the proportioning valve plug, correct?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,247
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Sep 23, 2021
#6
  • Sep 23, 2021
  • #6
It is highly recommended to gut the prop valve, install the plug, and put an adjustable on the firewall Union
 
Reactions: Shakerhood
S

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
184
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Oregon City
Sep 24, 2021
#7
  • Sep 24, 2021
  • #7
Mustang5L5 said:
It is highly recommended to gut the prop valve, install the plug, and put an adjustable on the firewall Union
Click to expand...

Ordered the plug and I have the adjustable valve installed already. Question though, how far in or out does this need to be screwed in or out?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,247
17,927
224
Massachusetts
Sep 24, 2021
#8
  • Sep 24, 2021
  • #8
Swhitney said:
Ordered the plug and I have the adjustable valve installed already. Question though, how far in or out does this need to be screwed in or out?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately you’ll have to figure this out on your own, and I admit the Internet is lacking instructions on how to properly do this.

It will depend on things like vehicle weight, weight distribution, the actual brakes you have on the car, tire size and how sticky your rear tires actually are
 

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
15 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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nevada
Sep 24, 2021
#9
  • Sep 24, 2021
  • #9
And that is why I used the guts from a 1995 GT to switch with my stock guts( plunger , spring), since the weight is negligible.
I've driven this way daily for over 7'500 miles and even in panic stops they stop on a dime.
 
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