Okay, Ive got a 97 cobra BUT its got a gt's 4.6l sohc 2V in place of the missing dohc 4V (not sure which year the motor is). Now Im new to the newer mustangs, so I dont know that much about them yet. But anyway, what Im wondering is would you save up enough $$$ to pick up a dohc 4V to transplant back in there. OR would you take the money and build the sohc 2V? I should be able to scrap together $1500 quickly towards a build, but to purhase a dohc, I can save for a while, no big deal. Further more, for the previous owner to put the gt motor in it, do you think he had changed anything in the electronics to make it work properly, or would it have been a basic "drop-in"? Or is there a different route you would take?
May I have your opinion?
- Thread starter scup
- Start date
Twista
Active Member
Wow, how did you buy that and did you know the motor was replaced?
NONPI 2v vs a 4v....
Get the 4v back in there and start working on that car. I think the 4v respone better to mods then your average nonpi 2v.
EDIT: Im assuming it has 96-98 GT motor, but still if its 99-04.. ill take the 4v over a 99-04 2v anyday if given the choice/ had the money
NONPI 2v vs a 4v....
Get the 4v back in there and start working on that car. I think the 4v respone better to mods then your average nonpi 2v.
EDIT: Im assuming it has 96-98 GT motor, but still if its 99-04.. ill take the 4v over a 99-04 2v anyday if given the choice/ had the money
Now I am a newbie at all this, but I think you have two options (because I am pondering much the same):
A) Spend the $1500 to rebuild what you have. With $1500 you can build a mild bottom end that will be a fresh start to your top end. Very reliable for a daily driver and ready for another 100k or so. If you are looking to have a car with some punch but can be driven daily, reliably and for more than just a year then this is probably your best option.
B) Buy a DOHC 4.6 or 5.4. Let it sit while you drive your 2v, and save money to build your DOHC. That way you have a decent car to drive and enjoy while you save money to build a more wild DOHC. This option will take much longer but if you are looking to build a care that is primarily for racing, then this is your option. Keep in mind that a used DOHC, even if it has floated valves or burns oil, basically is not a solid engine but can be rebuilt, will probably cost more than $1500 and will also take more to get into the car. Doing a 2v to 4v swap requires some additional wires and such.
I guess what it really comes down to is what you are looking to get out of the car long term.
A) Spend the $1500 to rebuild what you have. With $1500 you can build a mild bottom end that will be a fresh start to your top end. Very reliable for a daily driver and ready for another 100k or so. If you are looking to have a car with some punch but can be driven daily, reliably and for more than just a year then this is probably your best option.
B) Buy a DOHC 4.6 or 5.4. Let it sit while you drive your 2v, and save money to build your DOHC. That way you have a decent car to drive and enjoy while you save money to build a more wild DOHC. This option will take much longer but if you are looking to build a care that is primarily for racing, then this is your option. Keep in mind that a used DOHC, even if it has floated valves or burns oil, basically is not a solid engine but can be rebuilt, will probably cost more than $1500 and will also take more to get into the car. Doing a 2v to 4v swap requires some additional wires and such.
I guess what it really comes down to is what you are looking to get out of the car long term.
fast97gt
Active Member
i remember your first post, but im not gonna rag you about it. anyway youll need a donor car because theres so much involved with and so much missing that you will need. now my opinion, i would freshin up that bottom end with forged rods, and forged pistons (make sure theyre notched for ptv clearence), find some pi heads, have em p&p. then get some fat a** cams, and tune the crap out of it. youll make more HP out it then a stock n/a 4v. yes youll need little things like TB and upper intake for better air flow.
ErikTheBeast
Member
Sounds like a car we have in our shop right now. Personally I would leave the 2v for now and pick up mark 8 block and a new rotating assembly for it(maybe a 5.0 stroker kit). Find a set of decent heads and an intake and run that combo.
I see not everyone thinks alike here... lol. Variety, I like that!
Anyway, So say I picked up a dohc 4V, what would it take for me to put it in and have it running?
Or if I were to build on the 2V, I understand you guys say I should go with forged rods & pistons etc. But how far will I get with between $1500-$2000? and would it be driveable in the meantime?
The thing is the only sports cars Ive been around and worked on have all been carbureted, so the efi and all the electricals make me nervous.
Sorry that I sound like a complete Noob, but basically I am, but I know Im at the right place to get some solid advice.
Anyway, So say I picked up a dohc 4V, what would it take for me to put it in and have it running?
Or if I were to build on the 2V, I understand you guys say I should go with forged rods & pistons etc. But how far will I get with between $1500-$2000? and would it be driveable in the meantime?
The thing is the only sports cars Ive been around and worked on have all been carbureted, so the efi and all the electricals make me nervous.
Sorry that I sound like a complete Noob, but basically I am, but I know Im at the right place to get some solid advice.
The will not be drivable since rebuilding the bottom end requires pulling the entire engine. If you are going to stick with the 2v get all your parts together before you pull the motor and go ahead and talk to and schedule with the machine shop(s) to reduce down time..
You MIGHT can find a striker kit for that much but it will be cheap chinese stuff. Heads will run you a grand plus p&p cost... Don't rush it. Save for a while and plan really well before diving in. Building with cheap parts and labor is often times worse than not even rebuilding.
You MIGHT can find a striker kit for that much but it will be cheap chinese stuff. Heads will run you a grand plus p&p cost... Don't rush it. Save for a while and plan really well before diving in. Building with cheap parts and labor is often times worse than not even rebuilding.
fast97gt
Active Member
I'm gonna answer for scup, to nightfire it is a cobra with a 2v. His vin plate proves it. Scup has a post on that issue somewhere on here
Option 10... Sell that POS and find a real Cobra with the correct motor installed.
Sounds to me like you ended up with a wrecked rebuild. Why else would anyone put that motor into the car? Some shady character at "Bob's Garage", purchased the car from some 10 year old that likely ran it into a tree and whola...
Sounds to me like you ended up with a wrecked rebuild. Why else would anyone put that motor into the car? Some shady character at "Bob's Garage", purchased the car from some 10 year old that likely ran it into a tree and whola...
Yeah believe me, I would love to sell it, and find a "proper" cobra... but how do you manage to explain to the kid looking at it that it IS a cobra, but its just a gt motor? As you can see, sceptics already shun the car and assume that I dont know what Im talking about.
Does anyone know what it would take to put the dohc back in there given I had one sitting out here? (electronics, tuning, etc.)
Does anyone know what it would take to put the dohc back in there given I had one sitting out here? (electronics, tuning, etc.)
ChillPhatCat
20+ Year Stangneter 
Sell it as a GT and use the Cobra Vin# as a selling FEATURE. lol (Kids will LOVE having the bragging rights)
Take proceeds and drop into an order for a 2011 GT.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
What are your goals?
Since $$ is a problem, DRIVE IT just like it is. No one will know unless you tell them. If you have to tell your buddies something, say the motor is hurt and you are saving for a new motor.
Since you have a real Cobra as verifed by the VIN, the car is worth something once the correct motor is installed. To sell it now is "buying high, sell low".
IMO, anyone that would put a 2V NPI-SOHC into a real Cobra is looking to make a quick $$. Therefore, it is reasonable they would have done the absolute minimum to do the swap. That means it is likely that most of the Cobra specific parts are still there.
Now onto your goals. Do you want to do the work yourself? How important is the $$? What do you want to end up with HP wise?
With regards to your question about how hard is it, the boards are full of ppl that have swapped/exchanged/rebuilt their motors in their driveways using nothing but hand tools, jack stands, and a rented engine crane (including myself).
So if $$ is really limited, get a salvage yard motor (car-part.com) and call it a day. However, expect that the Cobra specific parts such as intake manifold will cost more than you think.
Again, IMO it is vital that you list your goals in order. It is your project and your $$. The best answer will come to you once you have an honest understanding of your goals and abilities.
Since you asked for an opinion, here is mine.
Since $$ is a problem, DRIVE IT just like it is. No one will know unless you tell them. If you have to tell your buddies something, say the motor is hurt and you are saving for a new motor.
Since you have a real Cobra as verifed by the VIN, the car is worth something once the correct motor is installed. To sell it now is "buying high, sell low".
IMO, anyone that would put a 2V NPI-SOHC into a real Cobra is looking to make a quick $$. Therefore, it is reasonable they would have done the absolute minimum to do the swap. That means it is likely that most of the Cobra specific parts are still there.
Now onto your goals. Do you want to do the work yourself? How important is the $$? What do you want to end up with HP wise?
With regards to your question about how hard is it, the boards are full of ppl that have swapped/exchanged/rebuilt their motors in their driveways using nothing but hand tools, jack stands, and a rented engine crane (including myself).
So if $$ is really limited, get a salvage yard motor (car-part.com) and call it a day. However, expect that the Cobra specific parts such as intake manifold will cost more than you think.
Again, IMO it is vital that you list your goals in order. It is your project and your $$. The best answer will come to you once you have an honest understanding of your goals and abilities.
ChillPhatCat
20+ Year Stangneter
A more serious reply...
Good post WMburns, I agree it's still a Cobra. Personally, if I had the space, I'd buy a 4v short block and piece it together in my garage with all the goodies, worked heads, intake and cams/springs of my choice and drive it as is for however long the build takes. At least it's still a V8! I don't think I'd build up an NPI 2v V8 in a Cobra, I'd really want to return it to what it should have been. I am kind of a purist though, I think that newer cars for the most part deserve to keep the engine that came in them... 2v in a GT, 3v in a Mach1 and 4v in a Cobra.
Good post WMburns, I agree it's still a Cobra. Personally, if I had the space, I'd buy a 4v short block and piece it together in my garage with all the goodies, worked heads, intake and cams/springs of my choice and drive it as is for however long the build takes. At least it's still a V8! I don't think I'd build up an NPI 2v V8 in a Cobra, I'd really want to return it to what it should have been. I am kind of a purist though, I think that newer cars for the most part deserve to keep the engine that came in them... 2v in a GT, 3v in a Mach1 and 4v in a Cobra.
@ wmburns
I would say im 95% sure I want to get the 4v back in there, and Ive got a 3 car garage with the average persons set of tools (meaning no lift/hoist but a "cherrypicker", engine stand, toolbox full of basic tools, etc.). I agree with chillphatcat when he says that its still a cobra, it does still have a v8, but it does deserve the 4v eventually. I mean its a beautiful car still, all black with nearly mint leather interior... more than enough to make it worth keeping. Its just that remaining 5% that made me think "what would be my other options as to spending the money for performance"
I understand it would be more than $2000 to get a running 4v in there, the $2000 would be my limit to build the 2v. Out of curiosity, how much would you expect to spend to get a 4v running and tucked back in there?
I would say im 95% sure I want to get the 4v back in there, and Ive got a 3 car garage with the average persons set of tools (meaning no lift/hoist but a "cherrypicker", engine stand, toolbox full of basic tools, etc.). I agree with chillphatcat when he says that its still a cobra, it does still have a v8, but it does deserve the 4v eventually. I mean its a beautiful car still, all black with nearly mint leather interior... more than enough to make it worth keeping. Its just that remaining 5% that made me think "what would be my other options as to spending the money for performance"
I understand it would be more than $2000 to get a running 4v in there, the $2000 would be my limit to build the 2v. Out of curiosity, how much would you expect to spend to get a 4v running and tucked back in there?
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
car-part.com searchable salvage yard $$'s
Did you go to car-part.com and look? Likely that 2k will barely get the motor. Make sure to get the Cobra intake or there will be additional $$'s.
Of course there is the Mark VIII route. Still leaves the issue of intake manifold and air induction.
An engine crane can be rented for not very much $$.
A Harbor Freight engine stand is not very $$. Get the one with 4 wheels. Do not get the one with 3 wheels. It is not stable and can tip over pushing the engine around the shop.
With a 2k budget, will be hard pressed to just get the motor. I am not sure I would put a 130k mile salvage motor back into my car. Additional $$ should be allocated to freshen up the internals. The costs go up from there depending on the condition and how much work you are willing to do yourself.
Did you go to car-part.com and look? Likely that 2k will barely get the motor. Make sure to get the Cobra intake or there will be additional $$'s.
Of course there is the Mark VIII route. Still leaves the issue of intake manifold and air induction.
An engine crane can be rented for not very much $$.
A Harbor Freight engine stand is not very $$. Get the one with 4 wheels. Do not get the one with 3 wheels. It is not stable and can tip over pushing the engine around the shop.
With a 2k budget, will be hard pressed to just get the motor. I am not sure I would put a 130k mile salvage motor back into my car. Additional $$ should be allocated to freshen up the internals. The costs go up from there depending on the condition and how much work you are willing to do yourself.
jeremy canter
Member
Lol...I see you keep asking the same question....I'll try to relay what I know guy....
First the 2v and 4v wiring harness are different. Ford sells a kit P/N 1U2Z-14S411-UA, list is $25.38. Splicing is envolved and but isn't hard. 4v alternators are already wired so keep that in mind.
When acquiring a 4V, if you decide, make sure you have a timing cover that compensates for the accesories if you keep them. I know some people get 4V from Aviators but say some accessories sit to high and the cover caused header issues. If you did go that route then you could get a cover for a stang easily for an extra $250+ or so. Other small things might be envolved with a Mach or newer cobra but its workable. Thats the main thesis here. But dropping something like crate ready you avoid those little conversions but pay more.
My opinion... A cobra deserves a 4V its what you think when you here Cobra. How ever you got yours in the condition its in dont matter. Its what you have so indulge...by all means. If you want to drop a 4V beast in there then thats like breathing life back into a dragon...sorry for the dramatics...lol. But even if you kept the 2V and ran over other cobra's with 4V then I suppose theres pride in that too. But I'd save, research and then build a 4V cobra.
First the 2v and 4v wiring harness are different. Ford sells a kit P/N 1U2Z-14S411-UA, list is $25.38. Splicing is envolved and but isn't hard. 4v alternators are already wired so keep that in mind.
When acquiring a 4V, if you decide, make sure you have a timing cover that compensates for the accesories if you keep them. I know some people get 4V from Aviators but say some accessories sit to high and the cover caused header issues. If you did go that route then you could get a cover for a stang easily for an extra $250+ or so. Other small things might be envolved with a Mach or newer cobra but its workable. Thats the main thesis here. But dropping something like crate ready you avoid those little conversions but pay more.
My opinion... A cobra deserves a 4V its what you think when you here Cobra. How ever you got yours in the condition its in dont matter. Its what you have so indulge...by all means. If you want to drop a 4V beast in there then thats like breathing life back into a dragon...sorry for the dramatics...lol. But even if you kept the 2V and ran over other cobra's with 4V then I suppose theres pride in that too. But I'd save, research and then build a 4V cobra.
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