I recently swapped my intake manifold and looks like some piece of metal dropped down into the head and is now jamming the intake valve open. Any suggestions on how to remove it? It's jammed in there pretty good but i can wiggle it around a little. Can I push down on the valve to give me some clearance to pull the metal out or will that break the valve?ore I've got a 2001 GT.
Metal stuck in intake valve....how to remove?
- Thread starter Ken01GTvert
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rotate the crank so that the valve in question is fully open if you can. hopefully the piece of metal will then fall into the combustion chamber where it can be retrieved with a magnet.
Unfortunately the piece is stuck there good. I didn't realize it was in there until I put everything back together and the car wasn't running right. I did a compression check and found that the cyl had no pressure. After taking everything back apart, I rotated the engine but the piece is still stuck in there tight although I can wiggle it a little when the valve is in the open position (based on the crank)
billfisher
Active Member
if it was me, and my motor. i would pull the rocker out.
weld a tool to compress the valve to coil bind, while a magnet retrieved it.
if it fell into the chamber, there is a small chance you can get it out through the spark plug hole. otherwise you know what to do.
weld a tool to compress the valve to coil bind, while a magnet retrieved it.
if it fell into the chamber, there is a small chance you can get it out through the spark plug hole. otherwise you know what to do.
Well, I tried to pick the part out of the valve by rotating the crank for when the valve was open and then using a magnetic pickup but it was jammed in there too hard. I went to Sears and got extra long nose pliers and was able to move it over to the side in the port and then pull it out. It was one of the sleeves from the old intake manifold. It must of dropped out of the bottom of the intake manifold when I pulled it out. Before closing everything back up I decided to rotate the crank to make sure that the intake valve was working. It's not. There's no movement at all when I rotate the crank so I'm guessing something's screwed up in the head. I'm going to take off the valve cover to see if I can tell what's messed up.
billfisher
Active Member
looks like your gonna have to pull the head off and bring it to a machine shop and get a valve job and atleast 1 new valve
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
TJM01 said:
Ya you'll want to. Chances are, its prooly now have dmged valve seats, if vavle was tuck open far enough, you might have had valve hitting on the piston, and possibly bent Valve. Take the heads off, and do it right...
it depends on how mechanically inclined you are... but if you can change the intake i say go ahead and pull the head yourself, only a few more bolts
stangGT97
New Member
jstreet0204
Active Member
While there is a good chance it damaged the seat, there is no harm in taking it one step at a time. Pull the valve cover like you had originally planned, and see if there is anything obvious keeping the valve from opening. I'm guessing the valve is bent, but no way to know until you take a look at it. It could also be a broken or dislocated rocker arm. which could be fixed without pulling the head. Bottom line, pull the cover, fix any problems you see there, then do another compression test. If the seat is damaged it will show up then. Good luck with it either way...
Yea, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to get the head to the machine shop or replace it. I don't believe the head is damaged but there is something that looks like a metal sleeve that comes part way into the port. It surrounds the valve stem. I can see that a small piece of it has broken off and without a doubt got sucked into the cylinder. I'm hoping that there's no cylinder damage but won't know unless I pull the head. I'm starting to check out different heads/cams (Patriot, VT) and trying to figure out how much this is going to cost me. I called a shop in the area and they charge around $5K to do this. So, I'll either be doing the performance upgrade myself or only getting the head fixed (assuming the cylinder isn't messed up). The problem I'm having right now is trying to find some good R&R instructions for this operation. Anyone have some good recommendations on heads/cams or where I can find some R&R instructions?
Yea, I'd like to find out what head/cam combination is going to give me the most for what I need. They all seem to be around the same price bracket. Around $3K with new cams. I'm looking at putting on a KB 1.7 later in the year so I don't need any radical cams with a big lope. I think I need heads that just breath better and I've seen on some posts where there are "blower cams" so I need to understand how they are different.
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