Metal stuck in intake valve....how to remove?

K

Ken01GTvert

Member

Aug 27, 2003

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Colorado

Jan 15, 2006

#1

• Jan 15, 2006

• #1

I recently swapped my intake manifold and looks like some piece of metal dropped down into the head and is now jamming the intake valve open. Any suggestions on how to remove it? It's jammed in there pretty good but i can wiggle it around a little. Can I push down on the valve to give me some clearance to pull the metal out or will that break the valve?ore I've got a 2001 GT.

 

DBMSTNG

I fantasize about it being BIG!

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Apr 23, 2002

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Jan 15, 2006

#2

• Jan 15, 2006

• #2

rotate the crank so that the valve in question is fully open if you can. hopefully the piece of metal will then fall into the combustion chamber where it can be retrieved with a magnet.

 

K

Ken01GTvert

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Aug 27, 2003

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Jan 15, 2006

#3

• Jan 15, 2006

• #3

Unfortunately the piece is stuck there good. I didn't realize it was in there until I put everything back together and the car wasn't running right. I did a compression check and found that the cyl had no pressure. After taking everything back apart, I rotated the engine but the piece is still stuck in there tight although I can wiggle it a little when the valve is in the open position (based on the crank)

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

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Jan 15, 2006

#4

• Jan 15, 2006

• #4

If it is the hard to get I would bet it damaged the valve and the valve seat...

 

K

Ken01GTvert

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Aug 27, 2003

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Jan 15, 2006

#5

• Jan 15, 2006

• #5

Yea, I would imagine so. If that's the case what does that mean? Time for new heads?

 

billfisher

Active Member

Jul 17, 2005

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huntsville, AL

Jan 15, 2006

#6

• Jan 15, 2006

• #6

if it was me, and my motor. i would pull the rocker out.
weld a tool to compress the valve to coil bind, while a magnet retrieved it.

if it fell into the chamber, there is a small chance you can get it out through the spark plug hole. otherwise you know what to do.

 

K

Ken01GTvert

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Aug 27, 2003

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Colorado

Jan 15, 2006

#7

• Jan 15, 2006

• #7

Well, I tried to pick the part out of the valve by rotating the crank for when the valve was open and then using a magnetic pickup but it was jammed in there too hard. I went to Sears and got extra long nose pliers and was able to move it over to the side in the port and then pull it out. It was one of the sleeves from the old intake manifold. It must of dropped out of the bottom of the intake manifold when I pulled it out. Before closing everything back up I decided to rotate the crank to make sure that the intake valve was working. It's not. There's no movement at all when I rotate the crank so I'm guessing something's screwed up in the head. I'm going to take off the valve cover to see if I can tell what's messed up.

 

billfisher

Active Member

Jul 17, 2005

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huntsville, AL

Jan 15, 2006

#8

• Jan 15, 2006

• #8

wow sorry to hear that dude.

see, i have a heart. i can show sympathy.

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Sep 24, 2002

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Syracuse, NY

Jan 15, 2006

#9

• Jan 15, 2006

• #9

looks like your gonna have to pull the head off and bring it to a machine shop and get a valve job and atleast 1 new valve

 

TJM01

Patience is a GD virtue

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Feb 3, 2001

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Jan 15, 2006

#10

• Jan 15, 2006

• #10

You need to pull the head.

 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.

Jul 24, 2003

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StateCollege PA

Jan 15, 2006

#11

• Jan 15, 2006

• #11

TJM01 said:

You need to pull the head.

Click to expand...

Ya you'll want to. Chances are, its prooly now have dmged valve seats, if vavle was tuck open far enough, you might have had valve hitting on the piston, and possibly bent Valve. Take the heads off, and do it right...

 

K

Ken01GTvert

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Aug 27, 2003

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Colorado

Jan 15, 2006

#12

• Jan 15, 2006

• #12

Ya, I agree, I'm going to have to pull the head. How big of a job is this? I'm wondering if I should attempt this myself or have it towed to a shop.

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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Jan 15, 2006

#13

• Jan 15, 2006

• #13

it depends on how mechanically inclined you are... but if you can change the intake i say go ahead and pull the head yourself, only a few more bolts

 

stangGT97

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Dec 22, 2004

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Boston area, MA

Jan 15, 2006

#14

• Jan 15, 2006

• #14

urban96 said:

it depends on how mechanically inclined you are... but if you can change the intake i say go ahead and pull the head yourself, only a few more bolts

Click to expand...

agreed

 

jstreet0204

Active Member

Jun 26, 2003

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Jan 16, 2006

#15

• Jan 16, 2006

• #15

While there is a good chance it damaged the seat, there is no harm in taking it one step at a time. Pull the valve cover like you had originally planned, and see if there is anything obvious keeping the valve from opening. I'm guessing the valve is bent, but no way to know until you take a look at it. It could also be a broken or dislocated rocker arm. which could be fixed without pulling the head. Bottom line, pull the cover, fix any problems you see there, then do another compression test. If the seat is damaged it will show up then. Good luck with it either way...

 

J

JohnyD05

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Mar 17, 2002

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Jan 16, 2006

#16

• Jan 16, 2006

• #16

Pulling the head off shouldn't be bad, its putting it back on that will be the tough part. I have never done it on a mustang, only on a DOHC infiniti.

While its off maybe you should have both heads worked over

 

K

Ken01GTvert

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Aug 27, 2003

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Colorado

Jan 19, 2006

#17

• Jan 19, 2006

• #17

Yea, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to get the head to the machine shop or replace it. I don't believe the head is damaged but there is something that looks like a metal sleeve that comes part way into the port. It surrounds the valve stem. I can see that a small piece of it has broken off and without a doubt got sucked into the cylinder. I'm hoping that there's no cylinder damage but won't know unless I pull the head. I'm starting to check out different heads/cams (Patriot, VT) and trying to figure out how much this is going to cost me. I called a shop in the area and they charge around $5K to do this. So, I'll either be doing the performance upgrade myself or only getting the head fixed (assuming the cylinder isn't messed up). The problem I'm having right now is trying to find some good R&R instructions for this operation. Anyone have some good recommendations on heads/cams or where I can find some R&R instructions?

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

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Jan 19, 2006

#18

• Jan 19, 2006

• #18

Do you want info on new heads and cams?

 

K

Ken01GTvert

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Aug 27, 2003

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Colorado

Jan 21, 2006

#19

• Jan 21, 2006

• #19

Yea, I'd like to find out what head/cam combination is going to give me the most for what I need. They all seem to be around the same price bracket. Around $3K with new cams. I'm looking at putting on a KB 1.7 later in the year so I don't need any radical cams with a big lope. I think I need heads that just breath better and I've seen on some posts where there are "blower cams" so I need to understand how they are different.