middle of a 3g swap, have some ?'s

[HISSIN50]

so, with that harness you dont have to hack or cut/splice your original harness??? if so... i am buying a 3g this week. i am trying to get a 3g on a fox body. sorry to hijack.

I have not used that one, so I cant say (wait for Kevin, et al).

The only actual hacking I had to do was in cutting the stator wire. However, even that was not necessary. Had I bared the wire and soldered a leg of wire onto the existing wire (making a 'Y'), I would have cut no wires. Total reverse compatibility.

BTW, 8950HO, it is too bad that Mr. Smith's link did not work - he posts some cool stuff on threads at his usual haunt (like JR does here).

 

[8950HO]

so, with that harness you dont have to hack or cut/splice your original harness??? if so... i am buying a 3g this week. i am trying to get a 3g on a fox body. sorry to hijack.

Read post #30.The aftermarket harness works ,but it`s not the optimal/best way to go,technically.

Theres no need to hack,or cut the original harness.You only have to splice into the original stator wire with a tap connector or with a male quick disconnect terminal,(cleanest connection).

 

[HISSIN50]

Read post #30.The aftermarket harness works ,but it`s not the optimal/best way to go,technically.

Theres no need to hack,or cut the original harness.You only have to splice into the original stator wire with a tap connector or with a male quick disconnect terminal,(cleanest connection).

I did read it - and since I have not used it, I chose to let those that have comment upon it.

Read my above-post. I just said you dont have to cut any wires; you can splice into the existing wire. I prefer the method I outlined as it will be more secure than the tap connector you chose. I cut my wire because a 2G wont be going back on the car. Personal preference.

 

[8950HO]

BTW, 8950HO, it is too bad that Mr. Smith's link did not work - he posts some cool stuff on threads at his usual haunt (like JR does here).

Link?...what link... was there a link...well maybe a manual link.

Did I awake a sleeping giant?,,.

 

[04sleeper]

so, with that harness you dont have to hack or cut/splice your original harness??? if so... i am buying a 3g this week. i am trying to get a 3g on a fox body. sorry to hijack.

With the harness you will still have to splice into the stator wire. It is the only wire that you need to connect back to. It is the Green/Red wire.

Read this, maybe it will help.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=75

 

[timewarped1972]

just thought i'd say thanks for all the help.....my pa performance power wire arrived today, 3g swap complete!
i still need to go back and do some routing with the power wire. it's a little extra long, which is good, but the in line fuse wont fit under the coil cover and i don't think it will fit under the battery tray...it came pre wired in line, so i may have to get an eyelet and make the wire a little shorter.
it said to hook the end to the selenoid that had the fuse on it, i assume you want the fuse closer to the selenoid for if the wire were to burn.....
i cut the stator wire off the black plug and just used a spade connector for now untill i get the proper plug. the rest of the plug, i just put a light coat of silicone on the end of it while everything was un hooked, so no moisture or water will get in it. i left it connected at the selenoid because that green wire with the fuse link , i read some where that has to be connected, then others have said i can disconnect it, so i'm still figuring that one out.
i used the stock pulley from the 2g, with a very very thin washer behind it to make the pulley alighn with all the others, belt tracks straight, and i now have about 14.5 volts idleing in neutral with every thing on ( a/c,lights, etc).......
the one thing i did notice though, is the pa performance instructions that came with the wire said to re-attatch the two black and orange stripe along with the new power wire, which ofcourse as i mentioned already, i did not, but thought i'd make a note of that......
thanks again for all the help......

 

[HISSIN50]

.....i assume you want the fuse closer to the selenoid for if the wire were to burn.....


...... i left it connected at the selenoid because that green wire with the fuse link , i read some where that has to be connected, then others have said i can disconnect it, so i'm still figuring that one out.

.....the one thing i did notice though, is the pa performance instructions that came with the wire said to re-attatch the two orange and blacks along with the new power wire, which ofcourse as i mentioned already, i did not, but thought i'd make a note of that......

Cool man.

I would want the fuse near the source (the solenoid). You got that.

That stock solenoid connection remaining connected is the way many folks do it. To remove that connection, see how Kevin did his (you do need to pull one wire out and attach it to the solenoid, since it was connected via the stock connection originally).

I think we kind of debated leaving the stock alt connections connected on both ends. I still would not do it.

Glad to hear you are charging like a champ!

 

[04sleeper]

Glad to hear you got it worked out.

Now if they would just make a 3G Swap Sticky we would be in good shape.

 

[TRWXXA]

just thought i'd say thanks for all the help.....my pa performance power wire arrived today, 3g swap complete!
i still need to go back and do some routing with the power wire. it's a little extra long, which is good, but the in line fuse wont fit under the coil cover and i don't think it will fit under the battery tray...it came pre wired in line, so i may have to get an eyelet and make the wire a little shorter.

The fuse holder should fit under the battery tray. Pull out the battery and tray, and route the wire underneath with the fuse holder under the tray. You'll find that the the cable is just the right length to go to the solenoid if you do this.