Might be time to change my name

10secgoal said:
6cyl springs, 90/10's,roller perches. Landrum springs out back with adjustable shocks and home made caltracs. Up until I moved back out here, my traction was perfect. Car didn't squat, it pivoted on the back tires, front tires barely lifted. And it came out of the hole square everytime. I only used 26's at the time. Adding this made it worse.


Hey 10secgoal.......welcome to my world of poor traction. I retired my car and I'm in search of a late model Mustang w/o the leaf spring setup! I think that much HP/TQ needs a 4 link set up. If your traction is that sensitive, the changing track conditions are going to give you fits if you are trying to dial in consistency.
 
thehueypilot said:
Hey 10secgoal.......welcome to my world of poor traction. I retired my car and I'm in search of a late model Mustang w/o the leaf spring setup! I think that much HP/TQ needs a 4 link set up. If your traction is that sensitive, the changing track conditions are going to give you fits if you are trying to dial in consistency.
Not gonna argue that a 4-link is a better setup, but there are leaf spring cars that see 8s.
 
jasonn said:
Try some BETTER adj. shocks. I had the cheap summit ones at first. Never could get it to hook. Bought some of the adj. Ranchos for the rear and now it hooks pretty good. Was lifting both front wheels about 8 inches (actually have it on video to prove) Couldn't believe shocks could help that much but they do. AWESOME times!! :nice: Oh the 28 inch tires helped quite a bit also. What tires you runnin??

I did have the settings on the summits as stiff as they would go. I consistantly pulled 1.70-1.72. I could bet anybody pinks slips that I would dead hook EVERY time. This was on 26 in et streets. I've seen as low as 1.52's on the 100 pills. And it took the slightest bit of heat. would start the burn out, see a whiff of smoke, and let go. So I'm almost 100% sure it's the track prep. Did you go with the 9000's, or the 12 ? I did go to the 28's. But my rims are too wide. So I air them down and get cupping in the middle. But it did a little better once I put the old 26's on. But now where near a dead hook.
Although at the time I would only stall to 1600 and flash the converter. Now I 'm footbraking it pretty hard. I am starting to wonder if the bars have too much preload since the rear end is starting to rotate at the line. Next time I guess I'll try to take out some preload.
 
I went with the 9000's. They are adjustable 9ways. Actually I'm not sure to what stiff means on the summit, comp eng., shocks means. Does that mean they are stiff on the compression or rebound? I know with the rachos, I have them adjusted on the lowest number setting to allow the rear to rise as fast as it can to better plant the tires. Do you have the batt in the trunk?? With a cutoff switch?
 
10secgoal said:
How low did you get the 1/8 mi times, even with the carb trouble ? The M/T didn't break loose ?
7.09@104. 1.83 60ft. i did get 105mph on my 1st pass.
the m/t's did break loose after the carb cleared up. i never setup the suspension with this combo, i just bolted the rear end to the leafs.
 
jasonn said:
I went with the 9000's. They are adjustable 9ways. Actually I'm not sure to what stiff means on the summit, comp eng., shocks means. Does that mean they are stiff on the compression or rebound? I know with the rachos, I have them adjusted on the lowest number setting to allow the rear to rise as fast as it can to better plant the tires. Do you have the batt in the trunk?? With a cutoff switch?
Battery is in the trunk. But it's on the wrong side. I had the bottle first, and put it on the driver side. Then later came the battery. There is a switch. I'm gonna assume it's the compression that changes. I had some old 50/50 lakewoods and the rear would squat real back, max out the leafs, and throw it back in the air. this would happen a couple of times out of the holw each time until I got the adjustables. How much preload are you putting in them ? What hole are you on ?
Jesus Paul. That's good for at least mid 6's. Gonna do something about it ?Haha, that's without the brake too isn't it ?
 
10secgoal said:
Jesus Paul. That's good for at least mid 6's. Gonna do something about it ?Haha, that's without the brake too isn't it ?
i left at 1,000rpm and just rolled into it. it still stumbled, but not too bad. to be honest, i was hoping for atleast 110mph. oh well, we'll see what this year brings.
 
10secgoal said:
Battery is in the trunk. But it's on the wrong side. I had the bottle first, and put it on the driver side. Then later came the battery. There is a switch. I'm gonna assume it's the compression that changes. I had some old 50/50 lakewoods and the rear would squat real back, max out the leafs, and throw it back in the air. this would happen a couple of times out of the holw each time until I got the adjustables. How much preload are you putting in them ? What hole are you on ?
Jesus Paul. That's good for at least mid 6's. Gonna do something about it ?Haha, that's without the brake too isn't it ?

Caltracks? I am in the lower hole with about 1/4 turn preload. Another thing I found out is have someone sit in the drivers seat when adjusting. Makes about a 1/4 turn difference in my car with/without someone sitting in the seat. I am going to loosen the converter up a bit this spring. Can't seem to get over 2700rpm on the launch. How did you hook up your batt cutoff switch?? I know you run the batt cable to the switch then the other side run to the solenoid but where did you run your alt. or regulator wire?? Everybody told me to wire the alt. wire to the bat + side but if you do that then the alt will be charging and running the system even when you turn the switch?
 
jasonn said:
Everybody told me to wire the alt. wire to the bat + side but if you do that then the alt will be charging and running the system even when you turn the switch?
Not if the switch breaks the main circuit somewhere, as if it were on the ground wire.
(I don't know if that'll pass NHRA tech inspection though)